texasrockstar
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2012
Posts: 17
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Post by texasrockstar on May 2, 2012 18:05:24 GMT -5
So after a few okays from members of this board I hopped on CL and found a THD 550 for $30. Works pretty well for the price... ;D Here is a pic of a few slices ive done so far...Now i just need to buy a NEW blade which cost more than the saw imgur.com/nt7XX
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texasrockstar
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2012
Posts: 17
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Post by texasrockstar on May 2, 2012 19:19:23 GMT -5
BTW... from the ID page I have concluded that what I marked as tigers eye is deff. not tigers eye.
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rockingthenorth
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2012
Posts: 1,637
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Post by rockingthenorth on May 2, 2012 20:35:23 GMT -5
that's cool. glad you got it at such a great price. have fun slabbing.
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kevin24018
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2012
Posts: 284
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Post by kevin24018 on May 3, 2012 8:14:08 GMT -5
get a blade off of ebay, if you aren't cutting really expensive stone an inexpensive blade should be fine, worked for me anyway, and not all 7" blades are 7" one I purchased from Home Depot was a few mm larger and rubbed on the bottom of the water reservoir.
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on May 4, 2012 0:35:52 GMT -5
I bought a Husky brand tile saw from Home Depot about 6 years ago. It's a 7" saw, but will accept an 8" blade. It's my current trim saw.
Lynn
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texasrockstar
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2012
Posts: 17
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Post by texasrockstar on May 8, 2012 2:15:48 GMT -5
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Post by helens on May 8, 2012 4:48:42 GMT -5
John at JS Gems sells BD 303C blades, and cheaper than any other prices online that I've seen (INCLUDING Ebay - John's 6" 303C are $37, Ebay has one right now for $37.98, plus shipping). Not to mention buying one from John would be nice since he's a really helpful RTHer, AND beats the online prices.
I just got one for my cabmate from him, but haven't received it yet, so can't say how well it will work.
I don't know how well a cheap blade holds up compared to the top of the line, but if it's like most things, buy cheap buy twice, so I figure I'd be better off with the better blade, and it should last longer for sure:).
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kevin24018
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2012
Posts: 284
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Post by kevin24018 on May 9, 2012 7:45:59 GMT -5
actual lapidary blades don't come in 7" is my understanding......I have a continous rim and it doesn't get hot at all, the blades with the gaps in them concern me as far as jamming and or breaking the blade or the rock, I have had no issues with heat and I've cut some hard stuff so.... practice with a cheap blade, you can always buy a more expensive one if you think you need it.
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Post by jakesrocks on May 9, 2012 8:22:25 GMT -5
Kevin, don't worry about slotted blades jamming or breaking. Years ago they made slotted blades for 10" saws. Wish I could find one for my 10" Covington. The slots carry more oil to the cut, and help to clear chips and garbage out of the cut. I recently put a 303S on my 16", and will never go back to a continuous rim blade.
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Post by helens on May 9, 2012 8:55:39 GMT -5
Speaking of blades... is it better to try to push a rock straight through, or to cut a bit, stop, cut some more, stop, OR to even back the rock out after cutting some? Will the stopping help get more water to the blade?
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Post by jakesrocks on May 9, 2012 9:06:22 GMT -5
Helen, if you're using a tile saw, most people seem to stand behind their saws and pull the rock thru. It helps to keep you dry.
It would be best to use a slow, even cut all the way thru the rock. By stopping and starting you'll get a rough cut. You'll see a small groove at each point where you stopped your cut.
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kevin24018
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2012
Posts: 284
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Post by kevin24018 on May 9, 2012 9:36:23 GMT -5
Speaking of blades... is it better to try to push a rock straight through, or to cut a bit, stop, cut some more, stop, OR to even back the rock out after cutting some? Will the stopping help get more water to the blade? push it straight if you can, I use a guide, what happens is the sides of the blade will grind as well, so any side to side movement the diamonds on the side of the blade will give you an uneven cut. Also i posted a picture of the splash guard I made so you don't get as wet.
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on May 9, 2012 9:48:31 GMT -5
Push it straight through! Slow & steady wins the race, if you can stand it. Also helps preserve the life of your blade.
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Post by NatureNut on May 9, 2012 13:25:37 GMT -5
If it bogs down, back off a bit. Go slow and consistent. Jo
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grayfingers
Cave Dweller
Member since November 2007
Posts: 4,575
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Post by grayfingers on May 9, 2012 14:13:42 GMT -5
Here is how I use my Workforce 7" tile saw. I cut slabs and even shape and dome my cabs on this saw, aside from my tumblers it is my only lapidary equipment. Some day I will buy or build a cabbing machine, and get a real saw. But meanwhile I can have a lot of fun for little money. The best 7" blade I have used is the MK-225 Hot Dog. They go for $45 to $55 on line. I use this for special materials that I don't want to lose more than necessary to the cut. This blade is the thinnest of the ones I have used. I also use Husky and Rigid blades from Home Depot, $35 or so each. I use a cheap $22 blade from Ace made by MK Diamond for abusing by use as a grinder for cabs and cleaning rough for the rotary tumbler. The important thing is to be sure the blade is rated for porcelain. I got rid of the little water tray and set the saw in one of those mortar mixing tubs. I made a max water mark on the saw, and use a deeper depth than the tray holds. The larger, deeper volume of water stays cooler, and with the healthy spray of water,the life of the blade is improved. I tape up a contractor bag to catch the spray. I free hand my cuts, with practice one can cut some pretty even slabs. On a newer blade I can cut up to 3 inches by slowly rolling the stone on the blade. Often I will make a small end cut as straight as possible, then use that flat surface to sight the next cut. I use a very bright light overhead, and a light to the side as well so as to clearly see what I am doing. Finishing a larger cut by rolling the stone. Some good sized slabs (for a 7" tile saw) Bill
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