rykk
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2011
Posts: 428
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Post by rykk on Nov 18, 2012 1:18:35 GMT -5
Hi, all - I'm trying to put together a 14-18" slab saw and want to, along with some other unique "bells n' whistles, have the blade set up to not only dip into an oil sump but to also have a pump to spray oil onto the point of contact from 2 directions. Do you reckon that a 1/70hp recirculating pump would do the trick? I live in Florida, so thickening of the oil's viscosity won't be a problem like up north. Thanks, Rick
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blackout5783
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 248
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Post by blackout5783 on Nov 18, 2012 1:53:04 GMT -5
The thing that would concern me with a recirculating pump is the wear on it from the mud/sludge. Of course, I have zero mechanical knowledge in this area, so my advice should probably be taken with a whole shaker full of salt. And possibly tequila as well.
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rykk
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2011
Posts: 428
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Post by rykk on Nov 18, 2012 2:53:48 GMT -5
hic....hiccup.... lol. I intend to ...'hic'... compartmentalize the sump so that the vast majority ...'hic'... of the debris settles out b4 it can reach the area where the pump will draw from. ... 'hic'..... 'burp'.... doood, give me more advice - this is fun - Mas Tequila!!! :-) C-ya, Rick
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Charles
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2012
Posts: 161
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Post by Charles on Nov 18, 2012 8:41:32 GMT -5
I have an old Lortone ls14 saw. It is an overhead drop type saw. It uses a recirculating pump like is found in the old swamp coolers to put oil on the blade just before the cuts. It has worked well for over 30 years so I don't think you should have a problem.
Just my .00002 worth, Charles
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Post by phil on Nov 18, 2012 16:39:00 GMT -5
I second the swamp cooler pump. Once we put it in a swamp cooler filter basket we never had problems with sludge or chips. Charles, if you ever decide to sell your Lortone drop saw, I've been looking for one for a long time now. Hope that helps Phil
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slabbercabber
starting to shine!
Member since March 2010
Posts: 30
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Post by slabbercabber on Nov 19, 2012 19:58:17 GMT -5
I have always run my saws and grinders as dry sumps with pumps. The only caveat I would mention is that it should be a turbine pump not a piston type. The dry sump allows me to use a waterfall separation system to keep the coolant clean.
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Post by phil on Nov 19, 2012 21:20:49 GMT -5
I have always run my saws and grinders as dry sumps with pumps. The only caveat I would mention is that it should be a turbine pump not a piston type. The dry sump allows me to use a waterfall separation system to keep the coolant clean. Got a pic? When we cut, the oil gets too dirty for any settling to happen. I'd be interested in how you're doing it. Thanks, Phil
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The Dad_Ohs
fully equipped rock polisher
Take me to your Labradorite!!
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,860
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Post by The Dad_Ohs on Nov 19, 2012 22:33:15 GMT -5
When we cut, the oil gets too dirty for any settling to happen. I'd be interested in how you're doing it. Thanks, Phil That may be the only flaw to your saw design... when that much grit is circulating within the oil it will settle anywhere it can, You're "compartmentalize the sump so that the vast majority of the debris settles out b4 it can reach the area where the pump will draw from."will only work so long... maybe, but once the saw shuts down the grit will settle out wherever it is sitting at that time, not to mention the fact that oil, as it splashes against a surface immediately disperses any sediment within it to, a point, so it would have to basically all dump right back into the sump compartment or you'll be scraping grit from everywhere. But then again... I may be full of it and not know what the heck I'm talking about either.. that's the chance you take...good luck with it either way!!
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slabbercabber
starting to shine!
Member since March 2010
Posts: 30
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Post by slabbercabber on Nov 20, 2012 18:59:04 GMT -5
Got a pic? When we cut, the oil gets too dirty for any settling to happen. I'd be interested in how you're doing it.
Thanks, Phil[/quote] Sorry, no pics and I'm on my way out of town. The big saw dumps into a small bucket suspended over a five gallon bucket. The pump is suspended about three inches above the bottom. The small bucket catches around 90 percent of the sludge. When the oil being thrown starts to show brown, it's time to clean. On the grinders I have a three compartment cascade box. With water I get virtually 100 percent dropout in the first compartment. I have only cleaned it once in several years after the first compartment filled entirely.
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rykk
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2011
Posts: 428
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Post by rykk on Nov 20, 2012 19:07:48 GMT -5
"Dadio" -lol - said: "... so it would have to basically all dump right back into the sump compartment or you'll be scraping grit from everywhere..."
There will be a system of baffles extending from the lid/top cover of the saw on either side, along with a mostly full coverage round blade cover or whatever you call the piece that curves over the blade. The sump, itself, will be in a sharp double vee shape on the sides and also will slant sharply front front to back to make as much debris collect at the drain. The pump intake will sit on a perpendicular pedestal at the high end of the secondary vee such that it is isolated from any airborne debris. The most it *should* suck up is very fine, oil-borne dust and I'm hoping it will handle that ok. I'll have the option of turning the pump off if the oil gets too mucky and/or when I'm cutting something either really messy or not expensive or very hard. Gonna be sorta complicated but I'm hoping it'll work out.
Phil said: ...Once we put it in a swamp cooler filter basket we never had problems with sludge or chips..."
Ok, I live in the Swamp - Florida. To me, a swamp cooler is water driped down strips of sheet with a fan blowing across them. Filters I've seen for bait aerators are basically foam rubber wrapped around the pump intake. Is that what you mean?
I was hoping to come up with a way to have the blade not only sprayed but also dipping into the oil sump as well but maybe the dry sump method might have merits. Thanks, y'all, and I hope y'all keep picking apart my design as I'm not worried about being "right" - I want whatever I build to be "correct" C-ya, Rick
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shermlock
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2011
Posts: 612
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Post by shermlock on Nov 20, 2012 19:39:01 GMT -5
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Post by phil on Nov 20, 2012 22:04:45 GMT -5
OK. You can see pics and a how to here: <http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/ContentView?pn=KH_BG_BM_HVC_Evaporative_Coolers&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053>
And a pic of a pump here: <http://compare.ebay.com/like/290719243133?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar>
Enjoy! Phil
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Nov 21, 2012 0:41:06 GMT -5
I also have an old 14" Hilquist drop type saw but have it modified to keep the blade stationary and added a rail and carriage vise to it to use like a regular slab saw. I use a mushroom top Little Genie pump from Grainger to pump the oil through the 2 oilers on each side of the blade. The pump is wrapped in a screen like material. The entire saw sits in a large metal pan with a drain nipple on the back that allows the oil to drain to a bucket that holds the pump. A paint strainer added keeps it filtered before it drops to the reserve. It takes me about 2 1/2 gallons of oil to keep it filled enough at all times and have enough to keep it circulating well. I also fashioned a gravity feed system that works super for smooth cuts with no nibs at the end of the cut.The pump was just under $50 if I remember right.
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rykk
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2011
Posts: 428
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Post by rykk on Nov 21, 2012 3:07:39 GMT -5
"... to pump the oil through the 2 oilers on each side of the blade..."
Cool! Where what did you use for the spray end nozzles? Where can I get them?
"... works super for smooth cuts with no nibs at the end of the cut..."
Really??? How do you keep the slabs from breaking off? Wait, I think I see - do you continue the cut so that the nub is cut off? That would be different from just about EVERY person I've bought slabs from! And a great thing. What about the deep furrow/groove just b4 the slab breaks off, right b4 where the nub would be? Is that eliminated by using a gravity feed, too?
Thanks! Rick
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