|
Post by Peruano on Nov 26, 2012 10:47:38 GMT -5
Rob (or Robsroockshop), Thanks for that insight. I was coming to the conclusion that it was a home-made rig after scanning this subforum for every photo of a saw that I could see for hours. The drive shaft turns relatively easily, but the vice sled seems a bit wobbly when I try to move it by hand (without drive engaged). I'm concerned that this wobble might cause binding during the sawing operation. The main problem now is that the drive belt is real loose and I'll probably have to fabricate an idler (tension) pulley, or go for a different belt size (idler pulley easier because replacing the belt looks to involve removing the arbor with alignment needed upon reinstall. All rust is superficial film (not really pitted), and some fresh grease on cogs and oil on rest should make it suitable for a test. More later and thanks again. Tom
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 28, 2012 16:45:59 GMT -5
Update on my progress: Motivated by the encouragement from you all, I've made considerable progress on the yes homemade saw. 1. I followed Jakesrocks advice in a different thread to add an idler pulley robbed from a washing machine to adjust tension on the feed drive belt. It worked great. 2. In a short dry run (no sawing performed), the sled moved about 4 mm in 1 min which would be about 1" per 5 min. 3. I have gone completely through the feed mechanism and vice with much WD-40, steel wool, penetrating oil, and occasionally bicycle grease. Once I started disassembling everything, the cleaning process progressed rapidly and productively. 4. I need to buy a blade before I try to cut anything. The one that came with it was shaped like a potato chip (saw had probably been tipped violently), and even tho I've pounded it to reasonable flatness, its in need of replacement. But a water run initially makes a great deal of sense as suggested by robsrockshop. 5. A bigger motor is on hand. I have a 3/4 hp and a 1/2 hp available. Question. I have two older motors that seem to have a round tubelike structure on top of the motor. Is this a capacitor? Is there a shock hazard from a capacitor in the course of rewiring a power cord to such a motor.? I have several motors that are old enough that they do not have grounded (i.e. 3 wire) power cords. I'm assuming all can be so equipped by attaching the ground (green) wire to the motor's frame. 6. The bearings on the arbor seemed a bit tight on first trial, but with a couple of extra pumps of grease thru the grease fittings, and a minute of running the saw turned easier. Should I go further in cleaning these bearings or with new grease are they likely to be fine? 7. The reason I assumed the gearbox was pre 1947 was that the name on the plate was Jack and Heintz Inc., a name they stopped using in 1946. Afterwards it was Jack and Heintz Precision Products or other permutations of the names. I promise an additional photo or two once the new blade is installed and a trial run has been more adequately performed. Thanks again everyone for the support and encouragement. I'm looking forward to further work on the saw and using it to make little rocks from big rocks. BTW. The saw was purchased in Socorro, New Mexico, home of the New Mexico Tech (school of mines) and hence a likely spot for some creative, and well-informed rocker to make his/her own saw. I'm a direct beneficiary even if several decades later. Cheers, Tom
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Nov 28, 2012 17:08:16 GMT -5
The 1/2 HP motor should be more than enough to drive a 12" blade.
Yes, that's a capacitor on top of the older motors. If they've been sitting for a long time, the charge will have drained out of them. Just to be sure, short across the 2 terminals with a plastic handled screwdriver. If you get a spark, the capacitor was still holding a charge but will now be drained.
Better to run your ground to one of the long screws that go through the motor, and a short jumper lead from the same screw to the motor mount. Most of those mounts have a rubber cushion between the motor and the mount.
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Nov 28, 2012 17:16:01 GMT -5
My OLD 14" beacon star stock auto feed moves the carriage at 1" every 5 minutes so you are right on track with that.
Chuck
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Nov 28, 2012 17:20:57 GMT -5
I recommend a 12" MK 303c or a MK301. However you could test with a 10" blade, like the MK 225 Hot Dog, and then keep that as a backup blade.
I also have a 12" MK 225 that did not work out in my fairly temperamental LS12. I think it was slight misalignment in the LS12 and not the MK 225 glazing up. (I use 10" MK 225 all the time in lapidary saws, including the LS12.) It is almost brand new and I paid over $100 and also bought a 1 1/4 to 5/8 bushing. I was going to list it on Craigslist for $60 plus shipping, but if you want to take a chance on the 12" MK 225 I would take $50 plus shipping, or consider any reasonable offer.
|
|
|
Post by phil on Nov 28, 2012 19:29:47 GMT -5
My OLD 14" beacon star stock auto feed moves the carriage at 1" every 5 minutes so you are right on track with that. Chuck Hi Chuck, Could you post a pic of your Beacon star? I'm curious about the color and shape of the vices weight bearing rod. Square or round? Thanks! Phil
|
|
|
Post by Rockoonz on Nov 29, 2012 0:31:53 GMT -5
If you're going to use water for testing you should add some RV antifreeze to prevent the blade from glazing or rusting. Also if you have obsidian try it first.
Lee
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Dec 14, 2012 13:56:24 GMT -5
Homemade, definately. I have now cleaned up the saw considerably and through the help of a member added an MK 225 blade (12") for initial trials. I discovered that it had a 3/4" arbor requiring a blade bushing. Laugh or approve as appropriate, but I added a motorcycle fender as a blade splash guard. It provides ample clearance but only a true liquid run will prove or invalidate its worth. The lateral feed mechanism on the vice has a set screw allowing its position to be secured, a nice feature. I have no top as yet so the initial run will be with the motorcycle fender and a rubbermaid footlocker to control the spray. Luckily its in an outside shop with a dirt floor than can handle some overspray initially. I suspect that initial run will be with rv antifreeze and water and involve a fairly modest cut before I jump to bigger stuff. Fabricating a top, replacing the motor and motor mount, and further cleanup of the electrical routing are next if the initial trial is encouraging. Any other words of advice?? Tom
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Dec 14, 2012 15:19:39 GMT -5
love the look of the fender! does the front of the fender go below the top of the blade? some water will be thrown off horizontal form the top of the blade.
do some final trial cuts with firebrick. (I get them by the 6-pack form ACE hardware.) any saw/blade can handle a fire brick and it also dresses the blade.
can I see a pic of the idler pulley?
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Dec 14, 2012 17:34:21 GMT -5
Daniel, I had meant to include the idler pulley in the last post but it slipped out of the photo. Test run has been completed. 1. I'm amazed at how quiet the saw runs. 2. I loaded it with 2 gallons of water and 1 gallon of RV antifreeze. 3 gallons was quite adequate to have the blade in the liquid. 3. Hopefully I did not damage to the blade with this witch's brew. I knew I had to drain it tonight (no top, freezing weather, and I was not quite ready to invest in 3 gallons of mineral oil until I knew how much I needed. 4. Fender front margin is about even with top of blade and indeed had a steady drip of liquid when the saw was running. Most mist or droplets was discharged from the vice side of the fender, but that was not as much as I might have expected. And as the slab cut progressed it would hurl some mist toward the drive side of the blade shaft. 5. Building a top is in order. 6. Cuts when well, but I did detect a slight blade marking on the slaps. My impression was that the drive shaft had a slight imperfection such that every so often the blade engaged a bit more aggressively. Or ?? However having no experience with mechanical feed saws, I may be expecting everything to be smoother than it is. I cut 4 slabettes of obsidian and two smaller pieces of agate with no unexpected fractures, jams, or lockups. I definitely had fun today. Tom
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Dec 14, 2012 19:24:29 GMT -5
I know the marks you mean. I got them with a MK 301 blade in some material. I never get them with a MK 303 blade.
What is you blade RPM?
Glad you had a fun 1st day.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Dec 16, 2012 17:58:05 GMT -5
Daniel, I have a 2.5" motor pulley driving a 4" arbor pulley which should give me 1075 rpm (within range for the 12" blade). I'm assuming pulleys are measured to the outside of the flange (equivalent to the top of the belt and not the inner surface), but could find no clear explanation of how to determine pulley size. I went out to buy mineral oil ($20 per gallon at our local ranchers supply; $18 per gallon at Tractor Supply; and yes $12 per gallon (actually $1.5 per pint) at Walmart. For those who don't want Walmart to profit from their purchases the equivalent pint of mineral oid at Walgreens was $5.75 - quite a mark up. I spent the day cleaning vegetable oil out of my trim saws and gave them a shake down with mineral oil as well and its meets my expectations. Cheers. Tom
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Dec 17, 2012 18:46:02 GMT -5
Just to end this thread with a bit of proof that the saw is functioning, I'll try to post a couple of groups of slabs (slabettes) cut today with a fresh charge of mineral oil in the saw. Pedernal chert Petrified wood (locally around middle Rio Grande in NM) Let the rock dust begin. Thanks to all for the encouragement. Tom
|
|
robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
|
Post by robsrockshop on Dec 18, 2012 9:02:16 GMT -5
Cool!
|
|
|
Post by NM Stone Supply on Jan 27, 2013 22:30:59 GMT -5
That works.
|
|
|
Post by sandsman1 on Jan 29, 2013 21:51:48 GMT -5
looks like it was well worth your time -- im bettin that saw will last for ever with alittle care good job Tom
|
|