sheltie
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since January 2012
Posts: 982
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Post by sheltie on Apr 22, 2013 15:26:12 GMT -5
I love to slab and recently started to polish the slabs using a wet polisher. I didn't get the BD polisher because I wanted to find out first if I would like one and I didn't want to pay that much. That's for later. The one I got (Rotoblast) doesn't have nearly as many polishing disks as the BD and isn't as capable but at least it has given me an idea of how good a wet polisher is. Instead of taking HOURS on a vibrating lap to polish a slab, now I can do in in minutes.
The biggest problem I had at first was getting the area around the edges as polished (shiny) as the rest of the slab. I think I've gotten that solved now by simply using the lower grits for a longer period of time. I also had a problem with "smudges" on the final product but have cured that the same way I did with the edges - longer time on the lower grits.
For those of you who use wet polishers, approx. how long per grit do you spend? For example, on 50 grit, do you take two minutes, five minutes, 10 or more? I've also discovered that some rocks simply don't shine as well as others do and some rocks that have multiple materials are the same, they just don't take a good overall polish.
My neighbors think I'm crazy (crazier!) because I set up a folding table on my front yard under the trees, attach the hose and the extension cord and work to my heart's content. Of course, seeing that it is in the 70s and 80s with a slight wind blowing makes it very comfortable as well.
Life is good!
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Apr 22, 2013 22:56:30 GMT -5
I've been wondering about the rotary slab polishers myself and would be interested in reading how things progress for you. As for the neighbors thinking you're crazy...well...speaking for myself, I've found that to be a good thing. Keeps the neighbors more polite and at a comfortable distance!
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vwfence
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2013
Posts: 557
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Post by vwfence on Apr 22, 2013 23:25:14 GMT -5
On ebay you can find a lot of different pads
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,158
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Post by jamesp on Apr 23, 2013 5:07:38 GMT -5
I use this rig to polish slabs and big specimens with a window sawn out of it.It is easy to get a polish on slabs including the edges.Of course,holding the little slab to the pad is a lot easier than holding the angle polisher to the slab...I glued the pads with their velcro to the homemade backing plate.The pads last forever on agates,but wear fast on grainy concrete.My saw cuts scratch free where i can start at 400 except the last inch where i get bloody saw marks.So 400,800,1500 and 3000.The other 2 are 100 and 200.Those rubber pads melt above 4-5000 RPM so the Walmart 3600's are perfect(at $29.95).GFCI is on the machine..................... forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/index.cgi?board=hmequip&action=display&thread=56164
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,158
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Post by jamesp on Apr 23, 2013 6:56:49 GMT -5
Sheltie,notice how Jim(Wampidy)used 5 inch pads instead of my 4 inchers.If they ever have affordable 7-8 inch pads i will redesign.At least consider 5.
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sheltie
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since January 2012
Posts: 982
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Post by sheltie on Apr 23, 2013 8:30:49 GMT -5
Sheltie,notice how Jim(Wampidy)used 5 inch pads instead of my 4 inchers.If they ever have affordable 7-8 inch pads i will redesign.At least consider 5. I love your polisher! How do you hold the slabs to the wheels, with a dop stick? Mine is also 4" and considering the size of my slabs, it's all I need. I may buy another grit disk, maybe in the 12,000 range although I currently don't need it. My slabs are coming out pretty good right now.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,158
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Post by jamesp on Apr 23, 2013 9:49:56 GMT -5
I use my fingers,a little vaseline.I will do a 1 inch circle dop stick is finger w/vaseline:>That machine should be a lapidary machine that you can buy.It has served me well.It is all about those diamond pads,great invention.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2013 13:29:36 GMT -5
well, I sell granite counters and those are just a really huge slab. Plus I cut lapidary stones at a very large class.
I can share a little of both for reference.
Granite counter craftsmen use a 4" rotary handheld "grinder" they grind for pre set amounts of time and then move higher in grit until polish. 100-220-500-1000-2000-3000 like that.
In lapidary class the guys who polish geodes or slabs mark the fresh cut surface with an aluminum wire. They then grind with 100 grit on the rotary lap until all the aluminum is gone. Now it is flat. They go to 220, 500, 800 Tin Oxide all on five 36"(?) rotary tables. The Tin Oxide table is covered in wool shag carpet and saturated with polish.
It polishes best at the beginning of the night before everyone decides it needs more water. By the end of the evening it is dripping and takes twice as long to polish. By next class it is almost dry and will polish a cab, both sides, in maybe 2 minutes. When it is almost dry you can feel the polish grabbing the stone and pulling as it cuts. After 30 seconds or so the pulling has stopped as polish is near and at two minutes one can see a clean polish using 3x visor.
On non porous materials like agates I feel a sharpie is as good as aluminum wire.
Perhaps this helps?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2013 14:26:39 GMT -5
Hey Shotgunner.
In the OLD days, Bidwell was pretty religious about using the Bull Wheel after the 800 and before polish. Does he still use the Bull Wheel or is there some type of EPA issue?
Tim
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sheltie
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since January 2012
Posts: 982
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Post by sheltie on Apr 24, 2013 16:06:26 GMT -5
well, I sell granite counters and those are just a really huge slab. Plus I cut lapidary stones at a very large class. I can share a little of both for reference. Granite counter craftsmen use a 4" rotary handheld "grinder" they grind for pre set amounts of time and then move higher in grit until polish. 100-220-500-1000-2000-3000 like that. In lapidary class the guys who polish geodes or slabs mark the fresh cut surface with an aluminum wire. They then grind with 100 grit on the rotary lap until all the aluminum is gone. Now it is flat. They go to 220, 500, 800 Tin Oxide all on five 36"(?) rotary tables. The Tin Oxide table is covered in wool shag carpet and saturated with polish. It polishes best at the beginning of the night before everyone decides it needs more water. By the end of the evening it is dripping and takes twice as long to polish. By next class it is almost dry and will polish a cab, both sides, in maybe 2 minutes. When it is almost dry you can feel the polish grabbing the stone and pulling as it cuts. After 30 seconds or so the pulling has stopped as polish is near and at two minutes one can see a clean polish using 3x visor. On non porous materials like agates I feel a sharpie is as good as aluminum wire. Perhaps this helps? Very interesting but I have no idea what the significance of aluminum wire or a Sharpie is to polishing slabs.
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Nov 25, 2013 16:23:50 GMT -5
Resurrecting an old thread to answer Sheltie's question: by cross-hatching the slab with aluminum marks, you'll know when the you've achieved a flat surface because all of the marks will be gone. If you have a dip in the slab the mark will stay until you've flattened out the area around it sufficiently for the pad to reach it.
Chuck
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sheltie
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since January 2012
Posts: 982
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Post by sheltie on Nov 25, 2013 17:21:22 GMT -5
Makes sense to me although my wet polishing is over until next spring. When to temps get back up into the 80s again I'll start polishing.
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herchenx
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2012
Posts: 3,360
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Post by herchenx on Nov 25, 2013 17:27:29 GMT -5
When all of the marker or pencil is gone it means the saw marks are gone. With all the water it can be difficult to tell if the saw marks are still there or not
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usaret
having dreams about rocks
Member since October 2012
Posts: 52
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Post by usaret on Nov 25, 2013 21:58:21 GMT -5
I've just recently bought a used ls12 and started stabbing. I've been cutting and squaring them off for coasters. The Covington 10" vib lap is not polishing like I thought it would,so when warmer temps get here I'm looking into a wet polisher.
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rockpowell
having dreams about rocks
Have been rock hunting most of my life, love cutting rocks, have tons of slabs, just haven't posted
Member since February 2013
Posts: 73
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Post by rockpowell on Nov 25, 2013 23:09:10 GMT -5
I've just recently bought a used ls12 and started stabbing. I've been cutting and squaring them off for coasters. The Covington 10" vib lap is not polishing like I thought it would,so when warmer temps get here I'm looking into a wet polisher. Go to McRocks.com they have alot of info on slab polishing. I found it to be very helpful, I have a lortone 15" lap. with 5 pans, and 14" lortone saw but all I want to do is slab rocks, just love see the color and style inside the rocks
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sheltie
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since January 2012
Posts: 982
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Post by sheltie on Nov 26, 2013 9:13:35 GMT -5
I've just recently bought a used ls12 and started stabbing. I've been cutting and squaring them off for coasters. The Covington 10" vib lap is not polishing like I thought it would,so when warmer temps get here I'm looking into a wet polisher. Go to McRocks.com they have alot of info on slab polishing. I found it to be very helpful, I have a lortone 15" lap. with 5 pans, and 14" lortone saw but all I want to do is slab rocks, just love see the color and style inside the rocks A person after my own heart! I got rid of my 16" lap because it took too long to polish and it was too much trouble cleaning it between the stages.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2013 14:59:37 GMT -5
Hey Shotgunner. In the OLD days, Bidwell was pretty religious about using the Bull Wheel after the 800 and before polish. Does he still use the Bull Wheel or is there some type of EPA issue? Tim I dunno. What's a bull wheel??
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herchenx
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2012
Posts: 3,360
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Post by herchenx on Nov 27, 2013 15:10:09 GMT -5
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sheltie
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since January 2012
Posts: 982
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Post by sheltie on Nov 27, 2013 17:14:04 GMT -5
Hey Shotgunner. In the OLD days, Bidwell was pretty religious about using the Bull Wheel after the 800 and before polish. Does he still use the Bull Wheel or is there some type of EPA issue? Tim I dunno. What's a bull wheel?? FAST polishers!!!!!
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2013 17:51:39 GMT -5
Hey Shotgunner. In the OLD days, Bidwell was pretty religious about using the Bull Wheel after the 800 and before polish. Does he still use the Bull Wheel or is there some type of EPA issue? Tim Thanks everyone for the answers RE bull wheel. Tim - Yes they have a bull wheel and this may only be used with instructor permission. Only two people authorized to give that permission and maybe that 4-5 people have blanket permission. It goes largely un-used. Over the last many years mistakes became rules and nobody is allowed to challenge. No EPA - lol The class has three 24" flat laps. Cast iron plates spinning horizontally. We use grit on those. It takes forever! maybe 90 minutes to take a fresh cut slab to polish. 100 grit to get it flat, 220-500-800 then polish.
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