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Post by Rockoonz on Jun 14, 2013 14:29:26 GMT -5
There are adjustments but if it were so so snug that it didn't have play the handle would be too hard to turn. A lathe or mill will have a little but they also will lock down, unlike most saws. Later tonight I will post a alignment tutorial from pics I took when rebuilding a saw a while back.
Lee
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sheltie
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Post by sheltie on Jun 14, 2013 14:31:39 GMT -5
One of the guys from HP will try to come to my place NEXT weekend (at the earliest). He gave me instructions over the phone on how to change the alignment and the first step was to take out two screws that hold the tray where the slab falls off the rock. I couldn't even do that! They are in so tight that I couldn't budge them without fear of stripping them. I'll just wait. Guess I'll just do some wet polishing for the next week or so. Crap! I have a lot of rough I'd like to slab, but...
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2013 15:58:55 GMT -5
It appears then that I'm back to the beginning. As I'm learning nomenclature, my "step" pulley has three levels. Up until yesterday it was on the largest level then I changed it to the middle level. I had thought the recommendations were for me to put the belt on the slowest , i.e., smallest level, but now I'm reading that the largest level was correct. I'm really confused. Perhaps I have something useful to share: Small pulley on motor. Small pulley on drive - fasteest drive action Small pulley on motor. Medium pulley on drive - medium drive action Small pulley on motor. Largest pulley on drive - slowest drive action The motor must turn less turns to turn the small pulley one time = faster drive action The motor must turn medium turns to turn the medium pulley one time = medium drive action The motor must turn more turns to turn the large pulley one time = slowest drive action If this is useful then great, if not, please ignore and I hope you have solved your issue. You are lucky HP is in Texas. I wonder what would happen if you were in say, SoCal.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2013 16:00:45 GMT -5
There are adjustments but if it were so so snug that it didn't have play the handle would be too hard to turn. A lathe or mill will have a little but they also will lock down, unlike most saws. Later tonight I will post a alignment tutorial from pics I took when rebuilding a saw a while back. Lee Maybe anti-backlash nuts would not work in this environment. In my experience they do not change the difficulty of turning the screw. Lee, I cannot wait to see your alignment tute! That is awesome of you.
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sheltie
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Post by sheltie on Jun 14, 2013 18:18:56 GMT -5
Shotgunner,
That was helpful, thanks. The others had finally showed me the way on this but your explanation was perfect for someone like me.
I live only 15 miles from the owner of HP. The problem is that he is almost always on the road or in China! His brother works primarily out of the East Coast. Luckily he has a friend who frequently works with him at his shop and that is who will eventually help me. I have no idea what they do for others who have new saws and have a warranty problem, but based on my experience with them so far, they would make a way to help. Very friendly and helpful folks.
Now if I could just get those danged screws out so I could get underneath the slab platform and try to make adjustments.....
Denny
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2013 19:08:37 GMT -5
Yeah, I spoke to John. He called me from China!
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Post by phil on Jun 14, 2013 19:14:46 GMT -5
When you remounted your blade, are you sure the blade is seated flat and correctly in the bushing (if you use one)? Did you clean off the crud on the arbor before reinstalling the blade? If your blade is not seated properly, that could give you the 1/8th offset. before you removed and reinstalled the blade, did it do this or is the problem new since you redid everything? Old blade cut with no tabs or breakage? I'd check the way you remounted the blade before I started messing with the arbor alignment and etc. Just my 2¢. Phil
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sheltie
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Post by sheltie on Jun 14, 2013 19:56:25 GMT -5
When you remounted your blade, are you sure the blade is seated flat and correctly in the bushing (if you use one)? Did you clean off the crud on the arbor before reinstalling the blade? If your blade is not seated properly, that could give you the 1/8th offset. before you removed and reinstalled the blade, did it do this or is the problem new since you redid everything? Old blade cut with no tabs or breakage? I'd check the way you remounted the blade before I started messing with the arbor alignment and etc. Just my 2¢. Phil I did all that but I'm going to do it again tomorrow morning just to be sure. I'm not going to do any slabbing until the alignment is right. The old blade(s) was a 301 and there was very little tab, if any. It is a good blade when the teeth don't break off.
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Post by beefjello on Jun 14, 2013 20:16:27 GMT -5
I had an issue with my saw (two actually) that I just figured out recently. One it started vibrating like crazy and even though the slabs were dropping uniform, the rough in the vise would end up a little crooked against the blade rather than being flush. It kept getting more so until while it was cutting I could hear this strange sound every 20 seconds or so and the slab wasn't dropping. I stopped it and found it was in the middle of the cut and wasn't progressing. I would unclamp from the drive and it would imediatley skip back. My terminology isn't the best, but I found that the back bottom plate that holds the carriage to the diamond shaped rods was loose.. like really loose! I tightened up the two bolts and it's riding true as can be now. Oh second issue is oil was starting to roll down next to the arbor pulley.. I found out that my saw was not level and leaning to the left. After leveling it everything's better. Don't know if this will help but thought I'd share, it's an 18" HP.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jun 15, 2013 0:37:47 GMT -5
There are adjustments but if it were so so snug that it didn't have play the handle would be too hard to turn. A lathe or mill will have a little but they also will lock down, unlike most saws. Later tonight I will post a alignment tutorial from pics I took when rebuilding a saw a while back. Lee Maybe anti-backlash nuts would not work in this environment. In my experience they do not change the difficulty of turning the screw. Lee, I cannot wait to see your alignment tute! That is awesome of you. Well it's there now, though maybe less than expected. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/60444/blade-alignment-on-older-inchLee
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Post by Bikerrandy on Jun 15, 2013 8:11:18 GMT -5
I get that tab on a lot of my slabs, just one more thing that my tile saw is good for fixing. I just use my cabbing machine to grind them off. But, at this rate I'll have to get new wheels pretty quickly. That's how I used to do it, then I thought about how much cheaper tile saw blades are
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sheltie
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Post by sheltie on Jun 15, 2013 9:43:05 GMT -5
For reasons I don't understand, Photobucket will not allow me to post three pix. So I will have to enter them individually and then go back and edit, so please wait for all three. I removed the blade, cleaned it and replaced it. Still a 1/8" gap front to back. So I started removing screws so I could get at the arbor shaft and now I'm stuck. The first pix is of the cover straight on. The second is of one of the scres between the motor pulley and the saw that MAY hold the cover in place, and the third is a side view. What do I do next?
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Post by deb193redux on Jun 30, 2013 23:24:55 GMT -5
Did HP guy come look at this?
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sheltie
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Post by sheltie on Jul 1, 2013 8:28:49 GMT -5
Yes, and it turns out that the arbor shaft and bearings have to be replaced. I'm not mechanically inclined but he immediately knew when he hand turned the shaft that it was worthless. He then removed the arbor and confirmed that and also said his original thought of the bearing being bad was also correct. Now I'm just waiting for replacement parts to arrive from China as they had the correct parts for 18" and above saws in stock but none for my 16". It will probably be 2-3 weeks as there are some in transit already. As if things weren't already bad enough, the day after he came my wet polisher died. It's back at the factory now and should be returned this week. This on top of having to replace the roof on my motorhome, my wife undergoing back surgery and me having (apparently) skin cancer reoccurrence. I wonder what joy awaits me next?
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Post by deb193redux on Jul 1, 2013 10:07:57 GMT -5
raining an pouring for sure
did the HP guy say why this bearing and arbor problem was not seen during the previous visit where the saw was inspected and said to be in good shape?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 1, 2013 11:36:45 GMT -5
Dang, Sheltie. That is an unfortunate series of events. lemony Snicket could not do.... um... better? Hope the skin cancer is solvable. Skin cancer sucks. Tell HP to give you a new 18" instead of waiting for the 16" parts! They owe it to you.
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sheltie
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since January 2012
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Post by sheltie on Jul 1, 2013 11:56:24 GMT -5
raining an pouring for sure did the HP guy say why this bearing and arbor problem was not seen during the previous visit where the saw was inspected and said to be in good shape? No, but in fairness, I didn't put a piece of rough in the vise and slab it then either. He was checking the saw for something unrelated and had no reason to check for my current problem. You would think that an saw that is still considerably less than a year old would not have the problems I've been having, but maybe I'm just supposed to bring the averages up.
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Post by catmandewe on Jul 1, 2013 12:18:12 GMT -5
You can go to your local bearing shop and get the bearings, no need to wait weeks. (Might not be made in China either, although the odds are it probably is.)
Tony
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sheltie
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Post by sheltie on Jul 1, 2013 12:49:19 GMT -5
Tony,
I kinda figure that since it's their responsibility to keep my saw in good shape (under warranty) for a few more months, I might as well just wait. I'm not fond of sitting on my dead butt for that long, but my doctor says I need to stay out of the sun for awhile anyway, so between the internet and TV, that's my excitement every day. Sucks.
Denny
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Post by deb193redux on Jul 1, 2013 12:50:15 GMT -5
raining an pouring for sure did the HP guy say why this bearing and arbor problem was not seen during the previous visit where the saw was inspected and said to be in good shape? No, but in fairness, I didn't put a piece of rough in the vise and slab it then either. He was checking the saw for something unrelated and had no reason to check for my current problem. You would think that an saw that is still considerably less than a year old would not have the problems I've been having, but maybe I'm just supposed to bring the averages up. :P I remember now, he came for the gear box. Still, I was asking at the time why/what had stressed the connection in the gearbox to make it give, and whether this could have been related to recent blade damage. Essentially look from the gearbox back to the motor, and the other way through the screw to the blade, arbor, bearings, driven pulley, and back to the motor. Sort of up and down the line. I recall he was aware you had blade troubles, and said otherwise the saw is fine. I am still not convinced that you coincidentally had two bad blades at the same time you happened to have gearbox and alignment problems that are supposedly unrelated. but when it comes to mechanical failures, I do tend to see complex theories.
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