jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 15, 2014 15:38:39 GMT -5
My buddy puts the copper on a dinner plate. Then she puts a cap full of ammonia on the plate(not poured into the plate but still in the cap to release fumes).
Then she covers all with a plastic cup and lets it 'incubate'. Simple enough.
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herchenx
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Post by herchenx on Jan 15, 2014 16:01:04 GMT -5
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herchenx
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Post by herchenx on Jan 15, 2014 16:03:59 GMT -5
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Post by rockjunquie on Jan 15, 2014 16:17:06 GMT -5
I've done green, but not blue.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 15, 2014 16:28:59 GMT -5
Those are great links John Herchenx. All those household chemicals can sock it to the copper. Copper is my favorite.
I have an 8 inch cotton buff wheel that is 'polluted' for buffing such corrosives. I get them in packs of 12 at Harbor freight.
Great links. Copper discs like that can be purchased to metal tag companies pre cut on a high speed die cutter. Along w/brass stainless and aluminum.
Great links
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 15, 2014 16:36:46 GMT -5
I want to use it on these and then buff the flat spots. Or buff the patina off of many copper forgings w/deep impressions hammered into them.
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herchenx
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Post by herchenx on Jan 15, 2014 16:52:09 GMT -5
I want to use it on these and then buff the flat spots. Or buff the patina off of many copper forgings w/deep impressions hammered into them. That is pretty, the second link seemed to have clear instructions and I really liked her finish, although it took her 2 days to get it.
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Post by vegasjames on Jan 15, 2014 16:55:31 GMT -5
I got purple copper once when I doing some experiments 29 years ago. I was making something else as part of another project. There was some solution left over and I had added one of my chemicals to it. I needed to stir it with something and all I had handy was some heavily oxidized copper rods so I used one. When I took it out of the solution the copper was perfectly clean and shiny. So I quickly dipped a second rod and same thing, instantly clean. I then dipped the copper in another solution, which turned the copper a lavender-purple color. I can't remember what the chemical I added was or what the second since it was so long ago and I lost my notes from that project a while back. I have been trying to remember what chemicals I had at the time to see if I could reconstruct it, but I am not 100% certain. It was an interesting experiment though.
As for the blue, yes the copper ammonia complex will yield a dark blue.
You should also get the same color by the reaction of copper with acetic acid (vinegar). I have made some pretty, dark blue copper acetate crystals this way.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 15, 2014 21:14:57 GMT -5
I notice she used copper pennies in her forging. And then chemicalized them too. That is some beautiful work.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2014 22:19:42 GMT -5
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Post by 1dave on Jan 15, 2014 23:01:35 GMT -5
Thanks Scott, I bookmarked that.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2014 7:27:54 GMT -5
Me too. Great link Scott. Chemicals-too fun.
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 16, 2014 8:49:04 GMT -5
OMG! I love the blue, esp on the goof up with the black!!!! This looks like so much fun!! I can hardly wait to start playing with some copper. Does it needed to be coated to keep it that color/pattern & with what, please?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2014 9:35:42 GMT -5
Use clear spray lacquer Donnie. Probably flat or semi gloss. I have altered color w/high heat till it glazes, then apply acid, then wash it off, then buff it. But those chemical effects need to be sealed.Hobby shops have it in small aerosols. This link discusses coating(from John) www.suelacydesigns.com/1/post/2012/08/my-first-green-patina-experiment.htmlOr here is a clear coat made for the process (designed for this process..)
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2014 10:04:17 GMT -5
This little slab of copper was heated really hot and melted. Leaving a glaze on the round blobs. Then dipped quickly into muratic acid. Then washed in water quickly and cleaned w/soap(and the water had baking soda to neutralize that very nasty acid). The dangerous muratic acid is a speed treatment for impatient folks. Then buffed on a dry cotton buffing wheel. Jamesp recipe to get Sci Fi effect. Looks kinda like vomit. And tried marketing under that name. Boutique did not like that name. Imagine that...
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 16, 2014 10:08:41 GMT -5
James, you some kinda crack me up!!!! Thanks for the info though!
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2014 11:20:35 GMT -5
James, you some kinda crack me up!!!! Thanks for the info though! Then i tried to name them warts from a particular disease and that really floated like a lead balloon. But a sense of creative humor can lighten things up at the boutique(the ones i sell to hahaha)
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 16, 2014 13:25:57 GMT -5
Just the word "boutique" sends shivers up & down my spine, with visions of snobbery & "high end" clothing! I like the way you liven & sober things up with your creations & creative descriptions!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2014 13:46:45 GMT -5
Not vomit. Coppernated alien insect ambergris
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Post by drocknut on Jan 16, 2014 13:48:12 GMT -5
If you clear coat and you do it on say, wire wrapped jewelry, won't that make the stone shiny or dull depending on if you use gloss or not? I've been considering investing in LOS but haven't jumped in yet. I'd like to try it with homemade but not sure I can deal with all the formulas and chemicals. I might try the egg method. Also I've heard you have to clean it with steel wool after doing the patina is that correct?
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