ajrknapper
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2013
Posts: 16
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Post by ajrknapper on Jul 27, 2014 22:03:40 GMT -5
I have been using used fry oil for slabbing but it is very sticky I was wondering if anybody know how to get rid of the sticky part cheaply it has been working great its just making everything sticky. if I process it like biodiesel it gets rid of the sticky stuff but I was wondering if anybody had done it differently just for sawing
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 27, 2014 22:18:35 GMT -5
Unless you like bad smelling rancid oil in your saw, I'd suggest investing in mineral oil. Frying oil being vegetable based will very quickly start smelling bad. It also has a much lower flash point than mineral oil does.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213
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Post by stephent on Jul 27, 2014 22:47:43 GMT -5
Once the veggie oil sees heat much(deep fryers, etc) it's well on it's way to polymerizing the fatty acids...the "sticky" part. It also has a lowered flash/smoke point. It also goes to smellin a bit quicker. It's "freezin" up point (solidifying like lard) raises too. From just less then 25 or so to way above that. It's a losing proposition..virgin veggie oil fares only slightly better. It's the heat developed between the rock and the saw that will do the oil in. I would think fully titrated and washed WVO would suffer the same fate sooner or later. It boils down to the basic difference between a veggie fat (oil) and a petroleum based oil.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jul 28, 2014 0:06:01 GMT -5
As the others said the flash point is way too low. Many rock shops have burned to the ground due to a poor choice of cutting oils.
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,688
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Post by Fossilman on Jul 28, 2014 0:07:43 GMT -5
Mineral oil.....Thumbs up
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Post by snowmom on Jul 28, 2014 5:33:54 GMT -5
former cleaning lady here. I found the best stuff for cleaning sticky oil residue (from cooking oil) is Murphy's Oil soap, which is available in most stores that sell cleaning products. You can use it full strength or slightly dilute it. Cover the greasy places with it and leave it set for a while so it can work. It softens the grease and then you can scrub with the tool of your choice... I used to use a razor blade scraper on a flat surface to remove the bulk of the residue first, your mileage may vary. Best wishes.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2014 12:19:57 GMT -5
I have been using used fry oil for slabbing but it is very sticky I was wondering if anybody know how to get rid of the sticky part cheaply it has been working great its just making everything sticky. if I process it like biodiesel it gets rid of the sticky stuff but I was wondering if anybody had done it differently just for sawing I recently visited a commercial cutting shop. 48" saws and all. He uses bio-diesel. It is fry oil that has been treated for use in a diesel engine. Here is a clear DIY article. It has to be way cheaper than mineral oil.....
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2014 12:29:05 GMT -5
As the others said the flash point is way too low. Many rock shops have burned to the ground due to a poor choice of cutting oils. My commercial cutter guy told me of one in your are that burned down - twice!! Because he used straight diesel fuel.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 28, 2014 21:07:28 GMT -5
All biodiesel isn't recycled frier oil. Loves, Pilot, and Flying J all switched to biodiesel. Runs the same in my truck. Smells the same to me. I don't know if the "bio" part means it will go stale and get thicker from not separating sludge like vegetable oils. Any oil that ignites under pressure has a pretty low flash point. Better to stick with a good safe mineral oil.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2014 10:10:18 GMT -5
Wikipedia tells usAn MSDS for Mineral Oil tells us About 70 oF higher than bio-diesel. Every little bit helps in avoiding fire, I am sure.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2014 11:42:08 GMT -5
All biodiesel isn't recycled frier oil. Loves, Pilot, and Flying J all switched to biodiesel. Runs the same in my truck. Smells the same to me. I don't know if the "bio" part means it will go stale and get thicker from not separating sludge like vegetable oils. Any oil that ignites under pressure has a pretty low flash point. Better to stick with a good safe mineral oil. Biodiesel has various ratings. B100 is pure veggie oils B25 is 75% petroleum Love's seems to be selling B14 = 86% petroleum - Pilot/Flying J appear to be sellig B20 = 80% petroleum - No wonder you can't tell the difference.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jul 29, 2014 20:10:36 GMT -5
Biodiesel is kind of seasonal. When the weather is warm or in a hot climate B20 runs fine, but in cold weather it may cause rough running. Biodiesel also has stronger solvent properties and will degrade the rubber seals on your arbor bearings unless they are rated for use in that environment. Also if your saw vice carriage rolls on bearings.
@shotgunner you talking about the guy in central Oregon near bend? He had some limbcasts that must have been very nice before they were ruined by high heat and molten asphalt shingles.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2014 21:36:21 GMT -5
Yes, I believe that is the guy. My acquaintance down here poopood straight regular diesel because of that one. Since he built his own saw I am sure he took into account the arbor seal requirements.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,182
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Post by jamesp on Jul 29, 2014 23:02:49 GMT -5
I mix 25% 10w-40 or SAE 30 or gear oil with kerosene. I remove it from the saw when slurried out and burn it. Leaving similar to baby powder after at least 8 hours of burning. It is difficult to start the burn. Have to mix sticks and leaves and use an acetylene torch to get it going. It could be started using soaked paper and a Bic lighter, but a slow process. The oil reduces the danger of flash. How much, I do not know. The lubricating/cutting qualities are excellent.
But the vapor while sawing is still a concern.
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