hornseeker
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2014
Posts: 268
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Post by hornseeker on Dec 31, 2014 10:29:16 GMT -5
So I put a thread up a while ago about picking up a tumbler and a half off Craigslist... I haven't messed with them much, but in the next couple months will get them both fired up and running... I think they are both home-brews... This "Frame and Roller" came with no motor... I haven't measured the pully size yet, but am curious if someone can steer me to the correct motor speed and pully size for motor? If necessary, I can give measurements this afternoon when I get home... This other machine has a pretty old, dusty motor on it with a defunct cord and switch, but when I get the wires touching right it runs... My question is... if I grab the pulley and turn it, its really hard to spin... If I unhook the belt from the motor, its still hard to spin and if I unhook the other little belt that connects the two rollers, its still hard to spin... Is there a way to lube those cushion block bearings? I appears to me they are sealed... can some penetrating solvent maybe be used to loosen them up? Do they go bad? Should I just replace them? OR... should I just run it? It SEEMS like the resistance would put a lot of stress on the motor, but??? When I get it running it seems to just run along just fine, but thats just for 30 seconds till I get tired of precariously holding the wires together. Nuther question... my 12# barrel is a little different diameter than the 15's that are running on this machine... I wonder if the 12 would work ok on that frame above? Cause I have two 6's to run on my Lortone QT... then I could have 15/15/12/6/6 going all the time... Thanks for any input!
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,158
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Post by jamesp on Dec 31, 2014 11:11:57 GMT -5
If your barrels have smooth faces on them you may get away with running different diameters. I have 6 inch PVC, 8 inch PVC and a Lortone 12, all different diameters. They get run against each other except the Lortone has a bolt sticking out in the center. So the Lortone has to be on the end with bolt facing away from other barrels. The PVC barrels have cheap and heavy rubber caps. They get scuffed a bit when a 6 runs against an 8, but the rocks wear the inside out first. It all depends on your barrel construction. Some times there are 5 barrels on this one. the front shafts run slow for polishing, the back fast for grinding. I mix all size barrels on both sets of shafts. In the photo they are not mixed, 8's on grind shafts, 6's on polish(front)shafts.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,158
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Post by jamesp on Dec 31, 2014 11:33:44 GMT -5
The upper machine looks like it has oil caps, old school. You may be able to put machine oil drops in those.
The lower machine looks like European bearings. They seem sealed unless there is a grease fitting somewhere. If they are sealed you may have a problem. Tumbler bearings notorious for getting grit in them-of course. Best to have grease fittings so grease keeps them flushed out. I sure grease mine. And built it with greasable bearings. If it turned with a strain I would and have changed the bearing.
If the yellow machine was mine, and it had sealed bearings, I would replace them with pillar block bearings that have grease fittings. Because it is a well built, solid machine. worth the overhaul
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 31, 2014 12:06:57 GMT -5
1/3 hp 1725 rpm ODP motors were used on all of Highland Park's tumblers from 12 lb. through 65 lbs. Since the motor is under the barrels make sure it is ODP (open drip proof) or put a shield over in case you get a barrel leak. Like James said the lids will wear out and usually not while you are around watching. Shafts should turn freely by hand without barrels. Cover the shafts with Tygon or other braided hose. Different size barrels shouldn't make much difference.
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hornseeker
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2014
Posts: 268
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Post by hornseeker on Dec 31, 2014 12:50:03 GMT -5
I'll have to look around for a place to buy Pillar blocks...
Thanks for the motor info and the bearing info gentlemen.
Ernie
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,158
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Post by jamesp on Dec 31, 2014 13:02:26 GMT -5
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Dec 31, 2014 23:27:16 GMT -5
Sometimes the grease in old bearings gets dry and pretty stiff. I have, on a few occasions, been able to get some new grease into dry bearings using a needle grease gun tip. If you aren't familiar, they look like a thick needle with a hole in it, available at auto supply. They snap on the existing grease gun tip, are not expensive. Might get you some time if it works.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 7, 2015 20:39:11 GMT -5
The actual name is "pillow block bearings". HP used cheesy bronze bushings. They wear out fairly quickly but are pretty cheap. Good ball bearing pillow block bearings will last a lot longer. A tip I learned in my HVAC career from an exhaust fan manufacturer was to not over grease. According to him all bearings are shipped about 70% full of grease. About one stroke of a standard grease gun should just swell the bearing seals without forcing them open. If you grease until grease squirts out you have opened the seal and created a path for contaminants to enter the bearing shortening life. Or so he said.
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hornseeker
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2014
Posts: 268
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Post by hornseeker on Jan 8, 2015 10:34:50 GMT -5
Ok, so if I buy new pillow blocks, which I have no prob doing... does the shaft just slide right out of the current ones after I remove pulleys from ends? I am mechanically inclined, just haven't evne looked at these things yet!
Thanks!
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hornseeker
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2014
Posts: 268
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Post by hornseeker on Jan 8, 2015 10:50:41 GMT -5
Craigslist... not far, but too far to go look. Anything anyone can tell about this??? If blade is no good, what might be a good price?) 10" is all the add says.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 8, 2015 10:58:35 GMT -5
Bearings will usually have set screws holding them in place. Either two through a collar or a concentric collar with one set screw and a dimple. If concentric remove set screw and tap dimple opposite direction of rotation. Concentric collar will slide off. Bearing will likely be harder. Clean up all exposed shaft surfaces with plumbers sand cloth and use a rust penetrant.
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Mark K
Cave Dweller
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,598
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Post by Mark K on Jan 8, 2015 12:34:56 GMT -5
I would put a catch pan under the tumblers where the grit will collect if the barrel fails. I reuse the course when this happens to me. Luckily it is rare. It also will protect the motor.
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bsky4463
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2013
Posts: 1,696
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Post by bsky4463 on Jan 8, 2015 13:54:00 GMT -5
Craigslist... not far, but too far to go look. Anything anyone can tell about this??? If blade is no good, what might be a good price?) 10" is all the add says. I went up and looked at all of his equipment when he first listed it last summer...if I read the add right he only wants $50 for it - that is a no brainier if you want a saw that size. I didnt look in detail at that saw since I have a 10" but it looked to be in good condition. And I believe the blade was fine. In general he took good care of his equipment, you might be able to pickup some rough from him too. There was a pile of it next to his shop. Cheers Edit: FYI - I picked up a faceting lap from him and was very please with the transaction...
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hornseeker
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2014
Posts: 268
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Post by hornseeker on Jan 8, 2015 17:15:18 GMT -5
Where you at Bsky? Bozeman? Yeah, I figured it was a no brainer. I also have emailed him and called him and left a message and have got no response yet... Yeah... I'd LOVE to get that saw... especially fro $50!!
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Jan 8, 2015 23:40:33 GMT -5
In addition to what johnjsgems said: If the setscrews holding the bearings were cranked down plenty tight+, they will dig into the shaft, creating a blister on the shaft that holds the bearing from just sliding off. I took a shaft apart the other day that had a cast iron pulley on it, and after getting it free and cleaning the shaft, I lubed the shaft lightly with oil. I stood the shaft on end [bearing down] and used the pulley like a slide hammer. I raised the pulley on the shaft, then dropped it to let it slide down to hit the bearing, freed the bearing after half a dozen drops.
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