herchenx
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Member since January 2012
Posts: 3,360
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Post by herchenx on Jan 4, 2016 23:55:51 GMT -5
There was a post on this very thing a couple years ago and John from jsgems made the same recommendation: original thread No dopping, no oil, no doming. Start with what you are intersted in and then grow out from there if you feel so inclined.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 5, 2016 11:32:08 GMT -5
An old timer (now departed) once told me best thing to do was to learn one thing well before branching out to new things. I wanted to learn faceting, sphere making, cab making, and on and on. I accumulated a lot of used equipment to use when I learned how. A lot of that equipment got sold after trying and finding it wasn't for me. For crosses you can with a little effort cut them with any rock (or tile saw with rock blade)saw. Easier with a band saw with vertical blade. Then finish in vibe tumbler with plenty of small ceramic filler to maintain shape.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jan 5, 2016 12:45:32 GMT -5
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Intheswamp
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Member since September 2015
Posts: 1,910
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Post by Intheswamp on Jan 5, 2016 18:54:29 GMT -5
<chuckle> Thanks, Chuck...I'd already devoured those threads...encouraging threads, too!!!!!!!!!
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 5, 2016 19:49:29 GMT -5
Yikes! I got sidetracked with the wheel questions. Of course you can use the saw on the unit you have. I should have thought of it since I shipped your blades today. And you asked about polishing on the end hub. Diamond compound polishes just about anything. really fine aluminum oxide (.3 micron) will handle a wide range of rocks too. You would need leather or felt discs (or the stick on Tech 10 or Polytex type cloth pads for each. Bes to use 3M Feathering Disc Adhesive as a non permanent adhesive so you can swap out the pads. The newer Lortones all have the right shaft end center drilled and tapped 14"-20 to allow the use of spin on polish pads but I'm guessing your old unit doesn't.
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Intheswamp
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Member since September 2015
Posts: 1,910
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Post by Intheswamp on Jan 5, 2016 21:56:17 GMT -5
Thanks for bringing up how the fact that the right shaft end might not be drilled. I've studied over the pdf "parts list" for the machine several times to get to know the machine. What I didn't take into consideration strongly enough is that my machine is 40 years older than the unit they describe in the pdf file. It hasn't changed much through the years but that is probably one of the changes they did make (and for good reason). I'll have to check tomorrow and see which design it is. Thanks for the feedback,John.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 6, 2016 18:44:59 GMT -5
If you ever remove the shaft it would be worth having a machinist drill and tap it if not already tapped. Lots of no-hole spin on accessories out there.
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Intheswamp
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Member since September 2015
Posts: 1,910
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Post by Intheswamp on Jan 6, 2016 21:47:44 GMT -5
Well, I checked the shaft out and it's non-drilled. I have no idea where to get something like drilling the shaft done. Living in a two-traffic-light town has it's drawbacks, I guess. I wonder if it'd be just as cheap to buy a new shaft. At least I know now and won't go buying things with 1/4"-20 studs.
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Intheswamp
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Member since September 2015
Posts: 1,910
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Post by Intheswamp on Jan 6, 2016 22:07:28 GMT -5
Or, don't worry about the wheel on the end and concentrate on grinding the preforms and then going to the Loto. Maybe later on do something with the end pad. Or use some of the adhesive with pads and different polish grits. As John mentioned earlier maybe go with what I've got, maybe add a diamond wheel, and go from there. K.I.S.S....for now.
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herchenx
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Member since January 2012
Posts: 3,360
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Post by herchenx on Jan 6, 2016 23:59:25 GMT -5
... or like johnjsgems said just use the saw and call it good - for now - maybe save the ~$100 and see if something else becomes more important sooner.
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Post by gingerkid on Jan 8, 2016 8:05:33 GMT -5
Hi, Intheswamp , have you checked out jadecarver.com for wheels? I discovered the same thing as you about the SC belts that they are only available up to 600 grit. I really like the 6" Crystallite diamond belts on the drum, but 8" diamond belts are expensive. I used the 8" canvas belts with diamond paste, and the belts are available in 6" if you decide to use your drum. Please check arrowheadlapidarysupply.com for the canvas belts. You can remove the pad on the end of the machine until you need to use it. There's lever-lock drums that would make it easier to add and remove belts, w/out having to remove the end pad, but I do not know if they are available in 6 inch. I have a Graves Company Top Cutter on the end of an 180 grit diamond wheel for the backs of stones, etc..., and just remove the top cutter and use a hope to learn intarsia one day. The Top Cutters are 180, 260, & 600 mesh. You could probably use the top cutters for crosses, too, but others have shared excellent suggestions and tips with you on how to get started. Graves Company Top Cutter with 180 grit diamond wheel used as a backer
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Intheswamp
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Member since September 2015
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Post by Intheswamp on Jan 9, 2016 17:27:03 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback, Jan. I checked the vendors you mentioned out. Looking at the Jadecarver site it seems they have some good prices on diamond wheels, though their website and catalog seem not to match in pricing. Do you use these wheels? Is the quality good? I looked for a lever-lock 6" drum but, like you, I don't think they make that size. I'm still undecided as to what to do. I may, for the time being, go slow and easy. Work with the saw a little bit and maybe even try out the old SC grinding wheel out. Then send the ground preforms to the Loto. ...and see how it goes.
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