jerrys
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2014
Posts: 263
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Post by jerrys on Mar 29, 2016 17:09:28 GMT -5
I am rebuilding a home made rock saw. It has a 1/16" sheet metal frame. There are a couple pin size holes on a couple seams and where one wheel base was welded on. A friend has tried wire feed welding and stick welding with minimal success. As one pin hole is filled, another appears. Any recommendations for an oil resistant epoxy or coating to line the saw?
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Mar 29, 2016 20:21:06 GMT -5
I am rebuilding a home made rock saw. It has a 1/16" sheet metal frame. There are a couple pin size holes on a couple seams and where one wheel base was welded on. A friend has tried wire feed welding and stick welding with minimal success. As one pin hole is filled, another appears. Any recommendations for an oil resistant epoxy or coating to line the saw? Try an automotive supply store. They should have a selection of of oil resistant stuff. look around on the JBWELD website too. Auto stores carry their products. www.jbweld.com/This one is good enough for gas tank repairs www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-putty-sticks/products/autoweldChuck
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2016 21:27:48 GMT -5
I have a 110v MIG. At lowest setting, i can butt weld pot metal cost hangers. I would think that without a huge amount of very light gauge welding, 16 gauge sheet metal is too light for mig.
I have seen some really outstanding TIG work on 18 gauge.
Chucks JB Weld is a much easier choice.
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Post by Rockoonz on Mar 29, 2016 22:59:40 GMT -5
I have welded floorboards into cars, much thinner metal, but if it's already heavily rust pitted it could be problematic. POR 15 fuel tank sealer may do the trick, but if the saw tub flexes when moved it may be necessary to stiffen it up before sealing it. www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer_p_64.html
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,628
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 30, 2016 7:36:43 GMT -5
I am rebuilding a home made rock saw. It has a 1/16" sheet metal frame. There are a couple pin size holes on a couple seams and where one wheel base was welded on. A friend has tried wire feed welding and stick welding with minimal success. As one pin hole is filled, another appears. Any recommendations for an oil resistant epoxy or coating to line the saw? I used Glyptal 1201 Red Enamel (the brush-on type) to coat the inside of one of my Covington 20" saws and it's had oil sitting in it for a year now with no problems. Glyptal is oil and chemical resistant. It's a little on the expensive side but there is no mixing catalyst involved. But you do have to strip off all old paint and rough sand the metal surface to scuff it up, and make absolutely sure to clean out all oil residue with acetone or lacquer thinner before applying the Glyptal in order to get good adhesion. A quart was more than enough to double coat the inside reservoir of the 20" saw. Larry C.
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jerrys
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2014
Posts: 263
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Post by jerrys on Mar 30, 2016 12:54:37 GMT -5
I am rebuilding a home made rock saw. It has a 1/16" sheet metal frame. There are a couple pin size holes on a couple seams and where one wheel base was welded on. A friend has tried wire feed welding and stick welding with minimal success. As one pin hole is filled, another appears. Any recommendations for an oil resistant epoxy or coating to line the saw? I used Glyptal 1201 Red Enamel (the brush-on type) to coat the inside of one of my Covington 20" saws and it's had oil sitting in it for a year now with no problems. Glyptal is oil and chemical resistant. It's a little on the expensive side but there is no mixing catalyst involved. But you do have to strip off all old paint and rough sand the metal surface to scuff it up, and make absolutely sure to clean out all oil residue with acetone or lacquer thinner before applying the Glyptal in order to get good adhesion. A quart was more than enough to double coat the inside reservoir of the 20" saw. Larry C. Did the 20" saw have leaks before the coating? I just read "You need to let it gas out for a week before you bake it at 300° F for 2 hours." Did you bake yours?
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,628
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 30, 2016 13:56:33 GMT -5
I bought two 20" Covington saws from a University auction. One had been used with oil and was fine and the other had been used with water and was badly pitted inside. Plus in the pitted one, one of the seams where the leg joined the reservoir had been damaged where someone had hit it with a fork lift. It would would have leaked at the seam for sure if oil had been in it. So I had a welding shop weld up the seam and then I sandblasted the rust out of the interior and then scuff-sanded it with 50 grit using an orbital palm sander to rough up the surface for better adhesion. I did not bake it. I just left it out in direct sun during a couple of hot Carolina summer days and it cured out fine. Larry C.
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