vwfence
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2013
Posts: 557
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Post by vwfence on Nov 18, 2016 13:11:15 GMT -5
has anyone used 8020 aluminum to build various machine frames like tumbler frames and buffer/polisher's ect ?? If you have what is your opinion on it
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 18, 2016 14:05:50 GMT -5
Great stuff. I've built a stand from it to hold Ryker mount boxes, & am in the process of building a mineral & fossil prep bench from it. A bit expensive, but if you can work your plans around their offcuts which are sold at a discount, the price isn't so bad. stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-SaleMake sure that everything you buy for a project is from the same series (size),Extrusions, clamps & screws,corner angles, etc. otherwise things will be very difficult to fit together.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Nov 18, 2016 15:14:11 GMT -5
I've never personally used it for a project, but it was used for various brackets for movable parts on the machines I used to run back at the firm. All I can say is it took a beating and I don't remember any ever being replaced. Definitely high quality stuff.
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 18, 2016 15:26:53 GMT -5
Forgot to mention, I'm using it for the rails on a 3 head sphere machine that I'll finish one of these days too.
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Post by Rockoonz on Nov 18, 2016 15:39:50 GMT -5
I like perforated steel angle better for cost, Aluminum won't rust though.
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Post by spiceman on Nov 18, 2016 20:59:14 GMT -5
I used it at work to build fixtures for testing and assembly. It is very stable if you use the correct hardware and the right amount. Use lock tight on the threads. If you don't plan on moving parts of the 80/20 use red or green. But to if you plan on removing bolts or adjusting , you should use blue. It will see vibration so loc tight would be a good idea
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 18, 2016 22:05:06 GMT -5
I used it at work to build fixtures for testing and assembly. It is very stable if you use the correct hardware and the right amount. Use lock tight on the threads. If you don't plan on moving parts of the 80/20 use red or green. But to if you plan on removing bolts or adjusting , you should use blue. It will see vibration so loc tight would be a good idea Yep, lock tight with blue if you plan on disassembling in the future. Also, the extrusion of the 80/20 has a slight angle on each extrusion face angling towards the t nut slot. Proper tightening will crush the angle to flat if the correct torque is reached and the connection should (theoretically at least) not come loose due to vibrations and stuff. This feature is designed into the stuff and most people don't know about it but if you read their specs and stuff the info is there.
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Post by spiceman on Nov 19, 2016 22:25:16 GMT -5
The big thing about torque and loctite is the variable. Most people don't have a torque wrench and the fixture will get how much vibration? Loc tight takes away some of the unknowns. But, in the end 80/20 is good, and you should have no problems. Post a pic of the fixture you make with it. Dale
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 19, 2016 22:58:23 GMT -5
The big thing about torque and loctite is the variable. Most people don't have a torque wrench and the fixture will get how much vibration? I wasn't implying that one needs a torque wrench to properly tighten this stuff. The hardware used when constructing something with 80/20 uses socket head cap screws. These are tightened up using an allen wrench (also known as a Hex Key.) Allen wrenches are the size they are (lengthwise) to give enough muscle to tighten up cap screws to their correct torque. (Unless you're really soft handed and wimpy, then you can use a cheater bar.) We are talking inch pounds of torque not foot pounds, until you get up into 1/2" and larger sized allen wrenches, then it could amount to foot pounds. Remember, we are talking aluminum here and the stuff is designed to crush flat easily if properly torqued which can be done with the standard allen wrench that fits that cap screw. Below is the info provided about this little known feature by the 80/20 company on it's website. Once this stuff has been tightened to the point where the drop lock feature is engaged, if you loosen it back up the locking feature will no longer work in that spot on the extrusion and some form of thread lock is required if you re-tighten the nut in place. When you look at 80/20 profiles that have been used and taken apart, you can see all of the t nut shapes still in the extrusion where the locking feature was engaged. It only crushes and doesn't spring back when the crushing force is removed. This is one problem that 80/20 does not mention anywhere in their literature (they probably know about it though) and has been learned from more than ten years experience using the stuff. But, if the drop locked fastener is not disturbed it should (theoretically at least) not need thread locker. I have never trusted it. Nothing is perfect. Use thread locker. I also said yes, loctite is good. Always loctite this stuff with at least blue. Never use red loctite (high strength) on anything unless it is intended to never be loosened back up. The only way to get red loctite loose is with heat (lots of it.) Green is like blue in that you can get it loose again but it is medium high in strength. It is called wicking green and is designed to be applied to threads already tightened in place. They also have purple for small (fine) threads and low strength. Red and blue are both available in liquid and semisolid and both have a different number in the name. The thing about socket head cap screws and allen wrenches is that the cap screw edge locks down nicely as well, when its matching allen wrench is used to tighten it up as hard as one can pull. Just make sure you don't strip the socket when pulling. Still, always blue loctite every bolt on a machine that might vibrate loose. It works on Harleys. One more tip. 3m makes a line of thread locking compounds that perform as well as brand name loctite for way less in price. 3m thread lock
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juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
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Post by juzwuz on Nov 21, 2016 16:14:48 GMT -5
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2016 16:51:53 GMT -5
Do they make one out of steel? Unistrut? How has aluminum held up? I would expect flex from roughing in a hand grind would work harden and crack extruded aluminum.
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 21, 2016 18:12:13 GMT -5
Those aluminum extrusions are very rigid. When bolted together with the proper hardware, they don't flex at all.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2016 18:42:42 GMT -5
Those aluminum extrusions are very rigid. When bolted together with the proper hardware, they don't flex at all. I would still love to hear Justin's answer in actual use. There is a lot of force generated when the ball isn't yet round. I have seen steel hinges destroyed from this force. Maybe this is stronger than a hinge. But I would love to know for sure.
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 21, 2016 20:00:07 GMT -5
Those aluminum extrusions are very rigid. When bolted together with the proper hardware, they don't flex at all. I would still love to hear Justin's answer in actual use. There is a lot of force generated when the ball isn't yet round. I have seen steel hinges destroyed from this force. Maybe this is stronger than a hinge. But I would love to know for sure. Spring loaded fire door hinges bolted to 1/4" T6 aluminum plate with aircraft grade nuts & bolts. Very sturdy.
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Post by spiceman on Nov 21, 2016 20:47:15 GMT -5
Not starting anything but on YouTube and some places on the web they are constructed using wood. 80/20 is much stronger then wood.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2016 21:10:55 GMT -5
Not starting anything but on YouTube and some places on the web they are constructed using wood. 80/20 is much stronger then wood. And flexible. I may be wrong. But am cautious...
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juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
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Post by juzwuz on Nov 24, 2016 15:43:22 GMT -5
Do they make one out of steel? Unistrut? How has aluminum held up? I would expect flex from roughing in a hand grind would work harden and crack extruded aluminum. The aluminum extrusion has held up great! I haven't made hundreds of spheres though. If it does eventually crack, I can always turn it over and use the other side.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2016 16:10:42 GMT -5
Do they make one out of steel? Unistrut? How has aluminum held up? I would expect flex from roughing in a hand grind would work harden and crack extruded aluminum. The aluminum extrusion has held up great! I haven't made hundreds of spheres though. If it does eventually crack, I can always turn it over and use the other side. Thanks Justin. I haven't made hundreds either!! Lol
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 24, 2016 17:26:20 GMT -5
If your extruded rails are screwed down real good, there should be no reason for them to flex & crack. I drilled & countersunk mine in the slots in 4 places & mounted them with countersunk aircraft grade machine screws.you could drive a PU over them without them flexing.
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