zekester55
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2017
Posts: 111
|
Post by zekester55 on Sept 17, 2017 13:02:07 GMT -5
Discovered that the bottom of the barrel of the Covington 250 was wearing through when I did the rinse and recharge routine this morning. For those not familiar with it, this is a conical barrel sits at an angle on the chassis. The barrel is pre-formed polyethylene, form fit over an aluminum disc as its base, and a steel shaft comes off of the disc to hold it in place on the chassis. Here's a coupe, of photos: My thought is to re-line the interior base of the barrel, as replacement barrels are $160 plus each. Obtaining the interior diameter of the barrel will be tricky, as the barrel is conical, but I can get my hand inside it. Would very much appreciate any recommendations on what materials I might use, what adhesives might work well, and any othee4 thoughts any of you may have. I'm thinking something like this for a material: www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-sheets/=19fbk7jbut not sure what adhesive would be good. Also feel like a bead of some kind of caulk around the outer edge might be a good idea, but again, what will wear well. I look forward to hearing what you folks think, as you are always full of excellent suggestions.
|
|
Wooferhound
Cave Dweller
Lortone QT66 and 3A
Member since December 2016
Posts: 1,424
|
Post by Wooferhound on Sept 17, 2017 14:28:49 GMT -5
What about that liquid rubber stuff that you can dip tools into to make a rubber coated handle. Or that Truck bed liner that you can get in a spray can.
|
|
|
Post by grumpybill on Sept 17, 2017 14:51:39 GMT -5
What about that liquid rubber stuff that you can dip tools into to make a rubber coated handle. Poor durability in an abrasive environment. Poor adhesion.
|
|
Enigman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since December 2013
Posts: 163
|
Post by Enigman on Sept 17, 2017 16:20:14 GMT -5
One thing to consider when repairing a barrel versus replacing:
With any kind of "patch" applied to the interior you run the risk of having grit infiltrate under the patch anywhere that the adhesive begins to fail or is not 100%. Then the grit can come back out during tumbling runs and contaminate the run. It would drive you nuts trying to figure out what happened. Anything glued on must have complete coverage and sealing and the glue cannot be subject to erosion from tumbling. Weigh the risks between replacement and repair.
That said, one thing that could be used as an additional patch edge sealer is artist's acrylic paint, the kind that comes in a tube. The acrylic to rubber bond should be good since the paint is rubber itself and it won't mind if the barrel is even a little wet during application. Paint it on the patch edges full strength liberally right out of the tube. Let it dry completely before use. Use any highly contrasting color so that you can see if it needs repainting after a few tumbling runs.
I haven't tried it myself, but it should potentially work.
|
|
|
Post by youp50 on Sept 18, 2017 2:16:27 GMT -5
The stuff you want to look into is a Devcon product called Flexane. Be sure to get the correct primer. You need to contact Devcon to be sure it will bond to poly. I have used lots of it in iron mines. I have only bonded it to steel or rubber.
|
|
|
Post by pauls on Sept 19, 2017 2:56:54 GMT -5
That stuff sure looks like it would be ideal except for the price, worth keeping in mind though if your barrel is obsolete and getting thin.
|
|
zekester55
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2017
Posts: 111
|
Post by zekester55 on Sept 19, 2017 6:13:29 GMT -5
Some good ideas here. I should have noted that i only use this barrel for coarse grind in stage one, so the contamination issue would be moot. I'll have to look into Flexane. Thanks guys!
|
|
|
Post by MrMike on Sept 19, 2017 6:43:36 GMT -5
Some good ideas here. I should have noted that i only use this barrel for coarse grind in stage one, so the contamination issue would be moot. I'll have to look into Flexane. Thanks guys! I've melted plastic on a hot plate outside to repair my UV-10 barrel. Used pieces of a wet dry vac extension wand (black plastic). Not sure what type of plastic but it's held up for 3 coarse runs. When you melt don't stir too vigorously or you will get a lot of trapped bubbles. You have to be careful that the melted plastic doesn't melt through the barrel. I placed my barrel on concrete & just had to recoat the bottom. You're barrel is different, you may be able to wrap lots of aluminum foil around the outside bottom sides to keep the plastic from melting through.
|
|
mikeinsjc
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 329
|
Post by mikeinsjc on Sept 21, 2017 13:08:42 GMT -5
I have had the bottom of 12lb Lortones wear through. I have found ordering 1/8" Buna-N sheet rubber from W.W. Grainger and adhering it with Gorilla Glue does the trick.
|
|
|
Post by tims on Sept 22, 2017 4:20:56 GMT -5
I have had the bottom of 12lb Lortones wear through. I have found ordering 1/8" Buna-N sheet rubber from W.W. Grainger and adhering it with Gorilla Glue does the trick. This scares me. I've had a QT12 for about a year and already the bottom feels weak, like i could push my finger through it if i tried. The sides are so thick i wonder why they used such thin rubber on the bottom. TIA for a future fix ...
|
|