lorenzo
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 12
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Post by lorenzo on Oct 20, 2017 14:39:46 GMT -5
Prior to purchasing, I didn't realize how large the shaft diameter was on these arbors. 3/4" on mine... is that standard?
I can't find any inexpensive diamond saw blades which fit 3/4". How is everyone getting around this issue?
Thanks. L
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kevin24018
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2012
Posts: 284
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Post by kevin24018 on Oct 20, 2017 14:46:01 GMT -5
Prior to purchasing, I didn't realize how large the shaft diameter was on these arbors. 3/4" on mine... is that standard? I can't find any inexpensive diamond saw blades which fit 3/4". How is everyone getting around this issue? Thanks. L look for spacers or bushings so a 1/2 size will fit.
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lorenzo
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 12
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Post by lorenzo on Oct 20, 2017 15:35:27 GMT -5
Prior to purchasing, I didn't realize how large the shaft diameter was on these arbors. 3/4" on mine... is that standard? I can't find any inexpensive diamond saw blades which fit 3/4". How is everyone getting around this issue? Thanks. L look for spacers or bushings so a 1/2 size will fit. I'm confused. If my arbor size is 3/4" and most saw blades have smaller holes - 5/8"... what does a spacer/bushing allow me to do?
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Post by captbob on Oct 20, 2017 15:39:23 GMT -5
don't try to figure that one out!
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kevin24018
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2012
Posts: 284
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Post by kevin24018 on Oct 20, 2017 15:56:15 GMT -5
look for spacers or bushings so a 1/2 size will fit. I'm confused. If my arbor size is 3/4" and most saw blades have smaller holes - 5/8"... what does a spacer/bushing allow me to do? ah thought your arbor was 1/2 shouldn't be difficult to find 3/4, google
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lorenzo
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 12
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Post by lorenzo on Oct 20, 2017 16:33:43 GMT -5
I'm confused. If my arbor size is 3/4" and most saw blades have smaller holes - 5/8"... what does a spacer/bushing allow me to do? ah thought your arbor was 1/2 shouldn't be difficult to find 3/4, google I've been all over google. Nothing found which meets my criteria of an 8" or smaller blade with a 3/4" arbor hole and somewhat affordable < $7 a blade.
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Oct 20, 2017 16:39:33 GMT -5
lorenzoIf you're using cheap tile blades, they usually have a knockout. I think the standard hole is 5/8" & 7/8" with the knockout knocked out. I could be wrong. It's been a while since I made mine. I had a machinist friend bore mine to 1" to fit the shaft on my machine. Another friend bored his own out on a drill press. Somehow he made a jig to center them. Harbor Freight has a stepped drill bit that may do the trick. www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.htmlLynn
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Post by HankRocks on Oct 20, 2017 18:17:58 GMT -5
Had a heck of a time finding a bushing to make my Super Grinder. Had to knock out the center on the Blades and could find no bushing that would workas it needed to be 1/16 wall thickness. Finally found some plastic tubing that was 1/16 thick and cut and spliced it onto the shaft. You can try one of the brass bushings and cut it down to the correct length.
When you use the Super Grinder, beware it will throw little pieces of the rock everywhere. I also find that you ease the rock into the blades, don't push it too hard.
Good luck
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Post by Rockoonz on Oct 20, 2017 18:41:10 GMT -5
lorenzo drill them with a step drill on a drill press. Step drills have steps in 1/8 inch increments generally. When I did it I cut a piece of wood scrap to put under the blade. I then pre drilled a relief in the wood. Placed the blade over the hole and, with it off, brought the drill down to the step on the drill that matched the blade hole and turned it by hand backwards to make sure it was centered and clamped it down. Then drill to the next step, or 2 steps if going from 1/2 to 3/4. If it makes a burr on the underside you can either use the edge of the next step bigger to remove the burr by hand when you'r done or very carefully on the drill press.
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minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on Oct 20, 2017 18:51:56 GMT -5
one solution would be to have the end of the shaft drilled and taped to the desired size and add a short stud of the desired size thats threaded on both ends. One end of the shaft would have to be left hand threads. www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=19wf982
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lorenzo
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 12
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Post by lorenzo on Oct 21, 2017 1:39:14 GMT -5
lorenzo drill them with a step drill on a drill press. Step drills have steps in 1/8 inch increments generally. When I did it I cut a piece of wood scrap to put under the blade. I then pre drilled a relief in the wood. Placed the blade over the hole and, with it off, brought the drill down to the step on the drill that matched the blade hole and turned it by hand backwards to make sure it was centered and clamped it down. Then drill to the next step, or 2 steps if going from 1/2 to 3/4. If it makes a burr on the underside you can either use the edge of the next step bigger to remove the burr by hand when you'r done or very carefully on the drill press. Thanks for the helpful tips! I already have the stepped bits. I think I got them from harbor freight a few years ago.... hopefully they are up to the task. Now I just need to find some inexpensive blades. Thanks everyone for the replies!
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