pizzano
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Post by pizzano on Mar 19, 2018 17:43:36 GMT -5
Gold and silver leaf aren't expensive found some gold leak in scrap and recooked it. gold seems resilient, must have high melt point ? Pure gold boils at approx. 5300*F......it will melt at approx. 1948*F..........we did this in a Chemistry class years ago to test the changes in it's element properties once cooked.......we found no change.....but it did vaporize to weigh less than what we started with.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Mar 20, 2018 3:42:37 GMT -5
found some gold leak in scrap and recooked it. gold seems resilient, must have high melt point ? Pure gold boils at approx. 5300*F......it will melt at approx. 1948*F..........we did this in a Chemistry class years ago to test the changes in it's element properties once cooked.......we found no change.....but it did vaporize to weigh less than what we started with. Cool beans pizzano. 1948F works for glass well since 1500F is used to liquify glass for fusing together. The dome of the Georgia state capital building has a layer of gold leaf on the entire dome. Apparently a very thin gold leaf layer. Georgia known for gold around the city of Dahlonega.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Mar 20, 2018 4:11:48 GMT -5
fernwoodYou were discussing using common items to doll up glass. I saw a lot of glass bricks and shape a lot of pendants. The belly of the tile saw fills up quickly with layers of pure glass chips and fine powder. The chips are from pre-shaping the edges of the thin pendant stock before re-melting. Got my eye on harvesting this fine grained debris and remelting or using it in surface paint. It could be screened and separated into tiny chips and a paste/fine sand. Compatible to melt since it is COE 96 glass shavings. Fine grained glass(glass paint) is totally expensive. Or the paste and a colored frit of choice could be mixed and fused for some weird effects....hmmm. I cleaned the catchment belly out of the tile saw out yesterday. The debris in the belly measured 9"X16"X 1.5 inches deep. That is about 5 pounds of material, a bunch. thoughts ?
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Post by fantastic5 on Mar 20, 2018 7:18:29 GMT -5
Impressed with your progress Jim! Looking just about perfect for jewelry making. From the photo of Denise's creations, this one really stood out to me. Was that a lucky break, or did she place the two halves side by side? I know it would be a lot more work, but if you would make some more with side to side symmetry,they would command a higher price. Humans like symmetry by nature.
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Fossilman
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Post by Fossilman on Mar 20, 2018 13:09:27 GMT -5
Holy Moly Bro. You got this down to a T!!!!
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Post by fernwood on Mar 21, 2018 6:24:44 GMT -5
That debris could be re-used for sure. You could put it in forms and melt into preformed cabs. Try putting some between a couple sheets of clear glass and see what happens. Know any local potters? They could combine it with clear glaze for an interesting effect. I can imagine the colors that would result.
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jamesp
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Member since October 2012
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Post by jamesp on Mar 21, 2018 6:28:52 GMT -5
Impressed with your progress Jim! Looking just about perfect for jewelry making. From the photo of Denise's creations, this one really stood out to me. Was that a lucky break, or did she place the two halves side by side? I know it would be a lot more work, but if you would make some more with side to side symmetry,they would command a higher price. Humans like symmetry by nature. Yes, simply 2 chunks from the blower placed side by side Ann. She must have magic fingers because mine usually push apart from each other at melt. If you take the time to grind the clear glass from in-between the chunks at interface they will color bond like that. With her down there composing I was able to run the grinder making a team effort. She is a good composer and takes her time. I cheat and melt other peoples art work, the glass blower's shards lol. So lazy. And artless I almost have my home built lapper ready and that will make grinding much more comfortable(dryer). Ha, the tile saw is somewhat tortuous. The melts are the way to go. I do much less shaping on the grinder and the tumbler these days. I use the kilns to shape. The melts only require 24 hours in coarse grit ! Some might need 2 days. Not used to those turnaround times with tumbling NO WAY.
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jamesp
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Member since October 2012
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Post by jamesp on Mar 21, 2018 6:37:56 GMT -5
Holy Moly Bro. You got this down to a T!!!! Over and over and over, same ole product over and over. It has allowed me to run so many experiments and weigh/measure wear rates and polish qualities Michael. Glass all tumbles, grinds and melts about the same so you can have predictability. Even the media is weighed. There is a point of diminishing returns media to glass. More media equals faster and better polish but less glass/load. the media is graded, no sharp edges and must have a size range. Then a ratio of glass size mix must be maintained when polishing. slurry additives measured closely. water closer. Everything is done with weigh scales and measuring spoons. Even temperature has to be within range as it effects slurry viscosity.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Mar 21, 2018 7:12:41 GMT -5
That debris could be re-used for sure. You could put it in forms and melt into preformed cabs. Try putting some between a couple sheets of clear glass and see what happens. Know any local potters? They could combine it with clear glaze for an interesting effect. I can imagine the colors that would result. Learning not to throw ANY glass away fernwood. I even made a flat lap grinder that is a closed clean system with high water input/output to catch glass shavings in a separator bucket. This lap to be commissioned soon. Same thought occurred to me, using the grind debris for glaze. The belly of the tile saw gets filled with a glass 'cake'. It is in color layers. Color layers if I saw different vases up one after the other. I was thinking of laying a plate of 2mm/3mm fusing glass sheet say white or clear or black in the belly of the tile saw. A standard 10" X 10" plate will lay down in the belly of the tile saw. When cutting up a given color let the debris land on the glass plate. Then remove the glass plate out of the water and dry the cake in the oven. Then as you say, lay a sheet of clear over it and fuse the whole thing. Or you could intentionally grind waste colored glass to control the color of the debris landing on the glass plate. you can install a chipping blade on the tile saw and produce chips instead of fines. Frit ain't cheap ! The tile saw generate about 2 pounds per hour.
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Post by 1dave on Mar 21, 2018 7:53:00 GMT -5
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Post by vegasjames on Mar 22, 2018 23:44:52 GMT -5
Have you tried heat treating them in sand? Burying them in some dry sand first distributes the heat more evenly. Same reason this is done in some chemistry experiments where the flasks are partially buried in sand in an electrical heater. Always heat treat in sand James. Not only even but reduces thermal shock greatly. Open the door above 400 and usually you hear cracking or see shrapnel if not buried in sand. Amazingly sensitive to slight quick temp changes. I was thinking about this and what may be going on is chalcedony is porous enough to absorb water, which is how they can dye agates. And the coral is being taken from a very moist environment and thus should have water in them that would lead to steam build up, cracking and shrapnel during heating since the steam cannot escape fast enough. Therefore I recommend first sealing the coral in a dessicant for a month or so to remove all the moisture then slowly heat up the stone to about 100F for an hour or so to drive out any residual moisture before raising the temp.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Mar 23, 2018 4:44:11 GMT -5
Always heat treat in sand James. Not only even but reduces thermal shock greatly. Open the door above 400 and usually you hear cracking or see shrapnel if not buried in sand. Amazingly sensitive to slight quick temp changes. I was thinking about this and what may be going on is chalcedony is porous enough to absorb water, which is how they can dye agates. And the coral is being taken from a very moist environment and thus should have water in them that would lead to steam build up, cracking and shrapnel during heating since the steam cannot escape fast enough. Therefore I recommend first sealing the coral in a dessicant for a month or so to remove all the moisture then slowly heat up the stone to about 100F for an hour or so to drive out any residual moisture before raising the temp. Most coral I cook has been in the dry section of a greenhouse for a year or longer. Excellent point James. It is normal procedure for me to load my rock furnace with a full load 80 pounds of coral and turn it on to 200F several times. Heat the large mass of 80 pounds of coral plus 40 pounds of sand surrounding the coral in metal pans sometimes 6 to 8 times. Basically 200F w/furnace on for 12 hours and then let it cool 12 hours, so this drying process may take a week. Basically turn it on in the morning and turn it off at night for a week straight passively, no hurry to put the 600F on them till they are dry. Next time I load the rock furnace I will have to try some agates and coral in glass as they will have seen the 200F drying process and the 600F treatment. i.e. lots of drying heat. Below 200F is safe , above 212F is a problem. I do have nice BB sized glassy almandine garnets. Chips of heated agate and coral. Probably best to start with small bits and see if the COE's are near compatible. Like you can use COE 104 frit on COE 96 glass if you keep the coverage below 20 percent. Basically reducing the overall expansion using smalls. Lol, throwing a piece of wet coral in a wood stove to aggravate those in the room, numerical description of shrapnel. Serious:
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Mar 24, 2018 7:03:05 GMT -5
Amazing fellow Dave. Comedy artist, are combo.
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56steve
starting to shine!
Looking for fellow rock hounds in my area
Member since November 2017
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Post by 56steve on Mar 24, 2018 8:38:03 GMT -5
OH WOW !!! great pictures...
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rockcat11
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2017
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Post by rockcat11 on Mar 24, 2018 16:07:42 GMT -5
Those are awesome. You are just getting it down to a science. Do you sell them? They would make great necklaces. Do you even do rocks any more? if not this alien would love to take those pesky rocks off your hands...
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