J Mee
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2018
Posts: 21
|
Post by J Mee on Jul 25, 2018 2:51:17 GMT -5
I’m just staring working on restoring a rusty old Lortone Beaver I got a while back. The first photo shows it before I started on it. The seccond photo shows it with the wheels taken off and after some scraping and vacuuming. The third photo shows the back. Water must have gotten stuck back there somehow cause it seems rustier than the front! I’m debating what the best method to fix it up is. I’d like to keep costs down as much as possible. Powder coating would be nice, but I’m not sure if it’s in the budget. The metal has rusted through in a few spots, so I was thinking of using bondo to fix those small holes after I wire brush it and sand it. I’m not sure powder coating will work on bondo.. I was thinking I might be able to get away with not taking the shaft out as long as I mask it when I re-paint the rusty parts. The bearings still seem good. If it’s not too difficult to take out the shaft I may take it out. Anyone have a link to instructions for that? Next stage will probably be wire brush and sanding unless I can get it sandblasted and powder coated for a reasonable price. After that I was thinking of applying a layer of the spray on plasti-dip which is kinda like pickup bed liner which should make it impermiable to water for years to come. Even if I go with powder coating I think that would help the longevity of it. Any thoughts, prayers or advice is welcome!
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Jul 25, 2018 10:51:07 GMT -5
The bed liner material I used to paint a set of motorcycle plastics was sufficiently rough in texture that I would not want it next to rock dust or wet residues. It would be impossible to clean and might hold moisture on the surface. In our dry NM air nothing rusts unless it has standing water on it. I'd clean and paint or not but not worry too much if you drain and or wipe down your equipment after use.
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Jul 25, 2018 11:57:50 GMT -5
Use "hammered finish" or "hammer tone" paint and multiple coats. The hammered texture hides a world of defects and the paint will seal up pin holes. Lortone kept costs down by using minimum thickness sheet metal. Rust has always been an issue. If the bearings and belt are good I would leave the shaft in. I have removed a few and it is pretty basic but not much fun.
The bearings are in rubber isolators and held on shaft with set screws. As is the 3 step driven pulley. Completely remove the set screws and clean all exposed shaft surfaces with plumber's sand cloth. Spray through set screw holes and shaft with a rust penetrant and carefully drive shaft out. file away any dings, gouges etc. from shaft surface before reassembly. If you ressemble install a new belt.
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Jul 25, 2018 14:19:40 GMT -5
maybe prime it with Rustoleum Rust Converter before using the hammered finish.
|
|
|
Post by rmf on Jul 25, 2018 14:37:27 GMT -5
j Mee I have used the epoxy kit from Ace Hardware that comes with fiber glass mesh to reinforce a plastic tumbler barrell. you could cut the fibreglass to cover then soak it the epoxy. Once applied and driec you could mix more epoxy and get a smooth surface. Also Harbor freight has a cheap sandblaster for around $25 (I got one elsewhare) I just use play sand from ace for cleaning. You must have a air compressor or know someone who has. It would be pretty fast to blast that with sand or glass beads.
|
|
|
Post by stardiamond on Jul 26, 2018 19:29:38 GMT -5
The Stardiamond machine I bought had the area under the wheels covered with fiberglass. I use trays and recycled water and need to wipe it down with a towel after use.
|
|
J Mee
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2018
Posts: 21
|
Post by J Mee on Aug 2, 2018 2:46:15 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone who replied! Its been rainy here and I’ve been busy with some other projects, so I haven’t had much time to work on it, but I did a bit more sanding today, so it’s almost ready for the next step. I’d like it to be able to live ouside and withstand the rain and snow that happen here in northern AZ. I may be spoiled by my aluminum poly arbors that have lived happily outside for years now. I’ll probably cover it with a plastic tub during winter to keep the snow off, but some moisture will get inside I’m sure, so I’d like to make it as water proof as possible. Wiping it down whenever it gets wet isn’t really an option for my outdoor use case. I don’t really care about looks or if rock dust sticks inside. I like the idea of epoxy. I have a bondo fiberglass epoxy kit thats been laying around that may be what I end up going with. Hopefully I can make it last a few years outside untill I can save up for one of those nice all stainless arbors!
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Aug 3, 2018 14:16:22 GMT -5
If you can cover it when not in use it should be fine outside. I think it is leaving the pan full of wet rock sludge that rusts out the thin Lortone tin. Using it outside pin hole leaks may not be much of an issue either. If looks don't matter, you can seal up pan with mastic. I've used aluminum roof mastic and it looked OK on galvanized pans. There is also spray cans of roof or cooler sump mastic that would be black when dry. Or "standard asphalt emulsion" brushes on brown, black when it dries. I used it a lot for cooler sumps and even on potable water tanks. Water based until it dries and then it is impervious to everything. Wears off your hands in a week or two.
|
|
unclesoska
freely admits to licking rocks
All those jade boulders tossed in search of gold!
Member since February 2011
Posts: 934
|
Post by unclesoska on Aug 3, 2018 14:56:54 GMT -5
There are some rusty beavers that just can't be restored:)
|
|