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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 23, 2018 12:15:54 GMT -5
Logic says the DP spritzer system will contaminate wheels but, like you, I used my Genie for many years and saw no evidence of an issue. I liked the under water system for the lack of the free shower you get with overhead water systems. I did most of my grinding in December getting ready for Winter shows so a little warm water in the pans and no problem. I have sold many CabKing units (both sizes) and really have not heard any complaints. One unit arrived with cord not attached and another had a faulty on/off switch. Customer installed the cord before telling me and the manufacturer mailed a switch to customer same day. Apparently it is an easy pop in installation. The CK wheels are low priced but light handed hobby users should get good use out of them. With 1" arbor holes anybody's wheels can be used as replacements.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 22, 2018 11:51:23 GMT -5
The motor mount holes are elongated so you adjust by loosening the mount nuts and moving motor out. Lortone belts are pretty notorious for stretching and a lot of "broken Lortone tumblers" only need a belt or adjustment. When I was a Thumler's dealer I used their "A" model belts on used Lortone 3 lb. tumblers. They are the clear belts and I think they stretch less. Same size. Another trick with barrel tumblers is to put braided type hose over the roller shafts (Tygon is one brand but garden hose that has the reinforcing braiding works too). I remove the worn smooth old covering and slide new hose on but some folks just split the hose and glue over. For the math wizards it changes speed of barrels slightly. Your problem sounds like belt issue. While you are at it look at the plastic shaft bushings. Cheaper to replace the bushings than to wait until shafts are worn also. I have had to replace shafts on used Lortones because of lack of maintenance. If I recall, every used Lortone I have bought needed either a new belt or belt adjustment. I'm guessing the newer motors are not as good as the older ones so shorter motor life is likely to be found. Why are you running 1/2 or less than 1/2 barrels? If you get it to work, you won't get good results. When you get closer to polish you will find the rocks being damaged by falling rather than rolling. Best to keep minimum 2/3 full, better at 3/4 full. If motor too weak use light weight fillers.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 16, 2018 12:48:38 GMT -5
Diamond Pacific still special orders Galaxy wheels in 2" for a little higher price. The soft wheels for DP and CabKing are 2" on both Titan and 8" CabKing. Titan wheels are 7 5/8" and I have heard 8" wheels won't fit under the hood. Not verified though. If you replace 1 1/5" wheels with 2" you of course will lose space between unless there is room on the end of shaft to move out. If wheel hubs are different thickness you may need different spacer dimensions as well. I use schedule 40 PVC but must be cut square.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 15, 2018 11:27:39 GMT -5
If you can remove the left side shaft adapter you can tighten the wheels and then spin back on the unit. The "bolt head" on shaft adapter is very thin so unless you grind a wrench down you can't hold it tight. Holding wheels on opposite side just loosens other side. The shaft adapter is hard to remove after use though.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 15, 2018 11:20:00 GMT -5
Most of the rock guides from the 70's only get you in the vicinity. The location with X generally a good place to park and look around surrounding area for similar geology unless you happen along after a good storm.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 11, 2018 16:19:55 GMT -5
Put the panty hose over your head before ordering. Good that water fitting is barbed for tubing. Best to use submersible pumps as too much water pressure can blow out the seals.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 10, 2018 11:50:18 GMT -5
Or buy quality wheels to begin with. I'm sure you can buy shoes for a few dollars still too. With tools you need to look at value, not price. Low priced tools that don't work have little value.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 9, 2018 11:37:37 GMT -5
Because grit is embedded you need to go one step coarser to feel the same. 60/80 for 80 for example. I have sold a few cerium Novas from DP but never tried them. Expanding drums would give you many options (diamond belts, cerium belts, leather or felt belts, etc. Wide 3" surface would be handy for bigger pieces.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 9, 2018 11:32:32 GMT -5
Is it sintered? Looks like silicon carbide unless they are using a different matrix material. Generally sintered wheels have a bronze colored matrix and use several soft metals with the diamonds embedded throughout. If different width core you may need to modify spacers.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 4, 2018 11:36:08 GMT -5
You can use brass needle valves (1/4" compression is what I use with copper tubing). I use angled valves, 1/4" compression on one side and 1/8" pipe on the other. On a thin tin hood I think it is a 3/8" hole and pipe fitting side will thread right into the tin. Tees as needed. A barb fitting at inlet to hook up plastic hose from submersible pump. If you don't recycle the water any submersible pump with enough lift will work. As stated before if not enough lift you will need to have bucket and pump on table. Before I moved here I tapped into a washing machine cold water supply and avoided the pump and supply bucket. As I added equipment the garage looked a little bit like a mad scientist's workshop. The fittings are easily found at hardware store. Pumps generally found as "fountain pumps". Aquarium pumps generally are air pumps. Use separate waste water bucket and treat your landscaping with the mineral rich water.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 2, 2018 12:21:47 GMT -5
If the hole is enlarged it should be fairly easy to bore an oversized hole and press in a bronze bushing. Fix before using the new blade unless you ae buying your blades from me. I can always use more sales. I hear every now and then of blade repair places in North West but 10" blade would not be feasible. 301 has high carbon tool steel core so I don't think you would be successful hammering it straight like the old mild steel core blades.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 1, 2018 12:44:10 GMT -5
What wheels are on the 6 wheel unit? Use other grit choices or maybe set up as a polishing unit with something like 8000 and 14000 Novas and polishing belts or 50000 diamond belt. Or really aggressive. Compliment what is on the 6 wheel.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 1, 2018 12:38:20 GMT -5
Tighten all the pulley set screws. You can get weird knocking sounds if pulley set screws are loose. Good idea to either tighten periodically or put a drop of non hardening LocTite on the set screws.
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 28, 2018 11:01:23 GMT -5
I think I would polish the last two and display as a butterfly. Maybe I'm weird. Or is saying a rock person is weird redundant?
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 26, 2018 10:35:24 GMT -5
Just saw this post. Thanks. He bought a 303C 6" and 301 10" per my recommendation. I have two 16" 301's in stock at "inventory reduction" prices if anyone is interested.
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 26, 2018 10:30:15 GMT -5
I sold them for years and they are very good. There are bearings in the pulleys. You could try cleaning everything before giving up. If I remember right you put a little silicon grease on the bearings. I met the old guy that developed the C40 after producing the original version in gold colored aluminum (hence their slogan "the gold standard in band saws"). He was worried about the longevity of plastic parts so designed the very simple tensioning system to tilt the wheel if too tight to throw the blade off (a form of idiot proofing). I have sold bottom pulleys to people that managed to wear them out. The white plastic blade guides are very critical. Replace when worn or when changing blade. I have only guides left in stock if you need new ones. They are a sacrificial part to save the more expensive structure of the saw. If worn the blade may not run smooth. Make sure you remove the bottom and side sponges after use. If they dry in place they can be hard to remove.
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 24, 2018 18:17:34 GMT -5
Lose the belt and just see if arbor pulley/shaft moves up/down or back and forth.
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 20, 2018 15:10:09 GMT -5
The square stock is a shaft key. Some pulleys have a groove and if shaft is also grooved you use the key in the groove. Pulley will never slip. The round part is a shaft adapter. They come with 1/2" shaft motors to adapt to 5/8" pulleys. If you have a motor with a keyed shaft they likely came with the motor. I have a whole pile of the shaft adapters in a special box where I keep all those valuable things I'll maybe never need. Every once in a while they are useful.
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 20, 2018 12:31:31 GMT -5
Or auto parts. Any real hardware store will have a measurer. If the old belt is shot you can cut it and measure it laying straight. It may have stretched a little so get next standard size shorter.
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 19, 2018 11:31:21 GMT -5
Are they too large for ultrasonic cleaner? Polish residue in voids is a problem. I switched to diamond compound on small flats and cabs but that doesn't help you at all.
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