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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 12, 2019 14:28:08 GMT -5
Stay close to the saw. Listen for sound changes. AZ wood is notoriously fractured and can ruin a blade quickly if the rock breaks up while cutting. One club in AZ won't allow cutting AZ wood and another demands you stand by saw while cutting. Nice colors on that one.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 10, 2019 19:14:43 GMT -5
Raytech should have lift out plastic sump liner too, I think. WD 40 works fine after drying blade to leave a light oily film on blade. Most used water saws I have picked up had bad bearings on the sump end from water infiltration.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 10, 2019 19:09:06 GMT -5
Adjusting it in makes pulley larger but on driven end slows down the tool. To align everything you need to adjust motor mounts. Put a straight edge across the pulley edges.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 25, 2019 18:11:28 GMT -5
It became the Barranca Diamond PF 10. Replaced by them with their aluminum bodied 10" saw. The really old ones had vise on right side but was later moved to left. I was told their engineer was left handed and when redesigned all saws were left handed. There were complaints about the vise and some users modified. From the factory if you loosened to move the cross feed you also loosened rock in vise.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 25, 2019 17:58:29 GMT -5
Barranca HP14 is really built tough although price new is not cheap. Much heavier metal than the Panther so higher to ship at 230 lbs crated.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 2, 2019 14:13:20 GMT -5
Here in the desert oiling causes it's own problems. All the dust, sand, real estate blowing around collects on anything oily. I use silicon lube on pad locks but have not tried on tumbler sleeve bearings yet. Cleaning well before oiling is a good idea.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 2, 2019 14:08:25 GMT -5
You need room for coolant as well. A blade that just clears the sump will not have very much coolant. You will only be able to trim slabs with 4" or 5" anyway. You won't be slabbing rough. I use an MK 145 (4.5" tile saw) with 303C 4" blade. Cuts just under 1" with 4" blade. 5" won't fit mine.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 2, 2019 14:01:54 GMT -5
Look for used Highland Park (old one not current), Frantom, Lortone, etc. in 10". Most the older saws were made well and can easily be rebuilt if you re mechanical.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 30, 2019 11:45:47 GMT -5
Ceramic likely softer and will wear out over time. With the angle cut cylinders you will see the angled ends start to round first.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 27, 2019 14:48:25 GMT -5
Most of their saws took two blade sizes (12/14, 14/16, etc.). Just measure space. With larger option blade almost touches back wall and is close to bottom. one inch vertical increae (except 20/24) but you loose one inch horizontally.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 15, 2019 10:57:22 GMT -5
To my knowledge, Sears never manufactured anything. I once purchased 25 MK 4" tile saws at a really low price to find out later they all had the Craftsman logos. Star Diamond made a lot of their equipment. I think Lortone bought out the Star Diamond tumbler lines before going under. MK/BD never did get any Star Diamond tumblers or vibe laps so they think those lines were sold off before they bought them.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 15, 2019 10:52:12 GMT -5
Highland Park (China Park) talked about it in the past but I think they dropped that plan.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 15, 2019 10:45:36 GMT -5
Agate Kutter and Hot Dog exactly the same. The first ones out from BD had the MK225 stamped in core. BD used the 303P porcelain tile blade on their version of the MK 10" commercial tile saw but it never performed as well as the 305. They used the 301 for a while which cut agates like butter but .040" thickness allowed flexing and blade dulled quickly. They switched to the MK225 Hot Dog. It is .050" which seems thin to tile blade users but thick to me (I love the 301). The rim is very tall so you get a lot of cutting capacity and no flexing. The Agate Kutter 305 (or MK225 Hot Dog) is designed for high speed masonry saws using water coolant to cut hard materials so a great choice for any tile/brick/block saw.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 8, 2019 11:38:45 GMT -5
Try "Blaster" and let it soak. Then tap screwdriver with hammer. Then maybe. If saw was used with water must be a rust issue. Heating screws may help too. Then again, if it is bolts and nuts cut the old ones off.
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 27, 2019 12:38:53 GMT -5
6" saws at most will cut 2" but generally don't have the power for maximum height cuts. Better as slab trimmers. Tile saws always have high speed, powerful motors so will cut faster than same size lapidary saws. Also will generally be very loud and offer free showers with every cut. I've used tile saws with lapidary blades for years and find most lapidary trim saws too underpowered now. As far as price differences, most of the big box store tile saws are "throw aways". The better lapidary saws with proper maintenance can last so long you will forget what you paid for them.
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 14, 2019 17:28:59 GMT -5
The biggest drawback with the Lortone combo is the lack of a second grinding wheel. Another issue is the 2.5" drum and bottom pan lip that makes changing belts a little difficult. The units came with 1" SC wheel and the wide drum. I sold a lot of 1.5" drums to Lortone owners to remedy this. The narrower belts cost less too. The drum is on the shaft end so easily removed and as someone mentioned you could swap grinding wheel for drum if you have the patience. Barranca and Covington 6" combos both have two wheels and a drum but price likely higher. Unless space is limited I would prefer a separate trim saw. Helps keep cab unit cleaner.
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 13, 2019 13:04:27 GMT -5
It is possible to replace the motor bearings if needed, or was on the original Baldor motors. They are switching to a larger motor from another source now. The Pixie is belt driven as opposed to the Genie (and Titan) that is a double shafted sealed direct drive motor.
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 13, 2019 12:57:16 GMT -5
Yes, for trimming smaller is better. The High Tech 5" or 6" saws are better. If you want to trim expensive slabs you can buy very thin 4", 5" or 6" blades. A heavy duty 10" saw is very useful for slabbing or trimming but in my opinion any brand used 10" trim/slab would be better than the Hi Tech. I really like all their other products and you could not find better customer service.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 29, 2019 19:24:20 GMT -5
You need to press the bearings out first. If there is no numbers you can measure the width, height, and outer surface shape (flat or domed). Check shaft surface where bearings ride. If there is any wear, shaft has to be replaced also. I think someone used to advertise Royal parts but can't remember now. Like maybe son of the original manufacturer in the northwest?
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 25, 2019 16:13:57 GMT -5
Pictured bearings likely had fiber covers originally to keep the grease in. Probably if arbor is mounted inside tank there was some type of washer and felt or other slinger type gismo to keep oil away from bearing. Every old saw I have changed bearings on had the side exposed to oil or water bad from infiltration into bearing.
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