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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 25, 2019 16:08:05 GMT -5
I would replace the particle board base with exterior grade 3/4" plywood. It looks like DP buys sink cutouts from a formica counter top company. DP stocks motor bearings and thrust washers and the motor can be rewound and repaired by a motor shop but it is labor intensive so "pretty spendy". I don't know how close the CK motor is to DP dimensionally but I did try a Genie shaft adapter on a CK and it is an exact fit.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 25, 2019 16:01:04 GMT -5
In support of vibe tumlers I would not say "useless for shaping" but rather "very useful for maintaining shapes". For final polish try a very fine aluminum oxide like the Rapid Polish (,3 micron) or similar. I ran 220 for 2 days, generally repeated with fresh grit. 2 days 600. .3 micron aluminum checking daily until satisfied. Washed between 600 and polish and after polish with a little Tide and enough water for washcycle. All other steps just enough water to dampen mix and keep everything rolling.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 24, 2019 11:43:19 GMT -5
I heard it was Baldor that no longer wanted to supply OEM motors in small batches (25 at a time I think DP ordered, they like to make 500 at a time). Truthfully, the Baldor motors have not been that trouble free since the European company bought them out. I know of one time when Genies were on back order they told me out of a 25 motor order only 5 were usable. Barranca had similar issues. They switched to one semi universal 1/3 hp capacitor start motor for most of their equipment saving money by buying one model in large quantities. Almost one whole pallet of motors had faulty overload protectors. The new motor which they are switching to is larger physically so I heard they are doing a little modifying of hoods, etc. to accommodate. I sold both brands in the past and CabKing after first generation seemed to be very good. Genie boxed for shipping is around 56 lbs. I think CabKing is heavier. Genie (if you can pick up close to 50 lbs.) would be most portable.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 23, 2019 18:57:07 GMT -5
Definite maybe. Some pans are thick enough to be machined flat. With that many pans it doesn't sound cost effective. I don't know if the newer laps use same pans. Mine was the older model with tree balls between pan and base. I never had a great deal of luck with mine. If I had 4 rocks on, one would polish, two would need more, one was usually non cooperative. I agree a pan with dimples or grid work would likely work much better. Lap has to be dead level too.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 23, 2019 11:45:04 GMT -5
This the material from Cobalt? I sold slabs for a while for another dealer until I had a $1000. stolen at a show. Tough stuff to cut as the metallic components gum up blades. Interesting material.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 23, 2019 11:41:45 GMT -5
See if the pan is flat by putting a straight edge across it. I wore the center of one of my pans down to a slightly dished shape. It was scrap aluminum then. Also, is the rock surface completely flat? The belt should not hurt the rock as long as it is fine grit. If it is a matte finish you may have to back up to 1200 and work the whole surface for a uniform finish.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 22, 2019 11:52:32 GMT -5
Star Diamond was bought by MK Diamond and operated as Barranca Diamond for 8 years before merging into MK as their "lapidary division". I have never seen that particular model. BD/MK has a Cab Combo that has 2 wheels, sanding drum and polish hub. And same trim saw. That unit with only one silicon carbide wheel would be most similar to the Rock Rascal. Maybe look that one up and price it a little less. Guessing it is heavier duty than Rock Rascal.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 22, 2019 11:46:04 GMT -5
Buy some more. That is how I find things.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 16, 2019 19:04:13 GMT -5
They likely used the brass Teel pumps originally. They may still be available but were really expensive when I had my saw. My original Teel pump was fine but cord was bare of insulation and no easy way to replace it. Back then Little Giant cooler pumps had same round base. The cheaper pumps I see at Home Depot have larger bases with built in strainers.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 16, 2019 18:59:28 GMT -5
Brands no but if you can find green SC it is harder than the black. Aluminum Oxide is mostly used in finer grits as it breaks down to a fine powder. SC breaks down but somehow stays sharp so generally better for tumbling. AO is generally cheaper so it is often used as the fine (600) step in grit kits.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 16, 2019 18:54:48 GMT -5
The Thumler's are a little annoying but work OK. You have to clean the top lip well to get lid to seal and sometimes it feels like you need a third hand to get the lid retainer ring on. Thumler's motors and bearings are much heavier duty than Lortone and belts don't stretch as much.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 15, 2019 11:35:07 GMT -5
On the chop saw I manufactured for a while I used a Ryobi universal tile saw pump. It was the only submersible pump that would pump dirty water (rock dust in suspension). All pumps worked until I started them again and impellars would be stuck. I used a swamp cooler pump with fine netting around the base on a Lortone copy with only issue being the supply tubes were really small and frequently plugged up.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 14, 2019 11:56:47 GMT -5
It is common to have wheel balance and motor shaft balance issues. Diamond Pacific has a machine that straightens the motor shafts before assembly (new motors). Then they install wheels and do the turn wheels until smooth. I think if you turn off machine and wheels stop in same place each time you can find the heavy side (maybe). Most people do as described, turn wheels a little at a time to smooth it out. A warehouse mat under my GyRoc tumblers stopped them from walking when running. Cleaning trays is always good although I ran my Genie until the geysers were trying to suck mud.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 14, 2019 11:42:25 GMT -5
Back in the day, 60/90 was called "80 ungraded" and was a mix of particles from 60-90 averaging 80. Depending on how much grit is coarser than 80, the 60/90 should be faster than graded 80. In USA mixed grades are generally a little less expensive. As shipping costs are high buying as large a quantity as you can reduces price per lb. As mentioned, coarse grits will grind rocks faster but can cost more in barrel component wear. The best thing you can have when tumbling is patience. The fastest tumbling report I read was a guy that recharged coarse grit every three days. For shaping, the grit was broken down enough to slow results after 3 days. You would need a lot of grit or use the 3 day old grit for subsequent steps.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 7, 2019 20:37:43 GMT -5
Some motors will say "common" on one terminal. Or "grounded terminal". It works either way but best to connect white (neutral) wire there. Most common motors have red and black wires to change rotation but that doesn't matter either. Some foreign to US cords use different colors as well but just keep the neutral and hot leads connected properly.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 2, 2019 11:32:52 GMT -5
If you want fast and your pockets are deep enough, look into the Covington 10" Maxi Lap. I sold quite a few while a dealer and was told they are fast and furious for sanding/polishing flats. A fellow show dealer always had large heels for sale. He flattened them with 220 grit on a Rociprolap and then dry sanded on a silicon carbide belt on an expando drum. I asked him what grit he used an he said "doesn't matter, 400, 600, whatever is on the drum". They were not mirror finished but looked good enough to sell.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 2, 2019 11:19:56 GMT -5
Any thin high quality lapidary blade should trim it if the slab saw blade doesn't. Are you using a tile blade?
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 2, 2019 10:12:29 GMT -5
Stainless makes sense for food processing. They probably needed to wash down. It will last a long time for lapidary.
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 31, 2018 12:20:58 GMT -5
Did you use cold rolled steel?
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 31, 2018 12:16:23 GMT -5
I have found many rocks at estate sales that were cut on three sides and then discarded. Most rocks are a guess. Most rocks not as easy as palm root or looking for ridges on geodes. When I sold my 24" HP the buyer insisted I throw in my box of oily wedges and blocks. As far as blade deflection, I always slide the carriage with clutch released and see how rock contacts blade. If blade deflects at all, move cross feed to hit square. An option would be to grind a flat spot in rock where blade will hit.
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