QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 16, 2023 20:06:32 GMT -5
...Lacquer thinner is a stronger solvent than acetone and Neoprene gloves are recommended when handling lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner is not stronger than acetone, they are just different. I have tried lacquer thinner on some adhesives and it didn't loosen the adhesive at all but acetone worked like a champ. Rockoonz, man, that MEK is nasty stuff and super carcinogenic but it works well in some instances. I try to avoid it as much as possible. Perhaps I could have worded it better, but lacquer thinner is a stronger solvent than acetone in the context of Health Hazard. Acetone has a Health hazard rating of 1 while blends of lacquer thinners usually have a health hazard rating of 2 or even 3. Hence the recommendation to wear neoprene gloves which are usually impervious to ingredients in lacquer thinner blends.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 15, 2023 21:48:40 GMT -5
Many times I've soak these in lacquer thinner overnight in a Rubbermaid polypropylene plastic food container with a lid. The next day I scrape off any remaining residue with putty knife and then clean up the aluminum disc with fresh lacquer thinner and steel wool. If you choose to do this be sure to follow all of the safety precautions on the lacquer thinner label. Lacquer thinner is a stronger solvent than acetone and Neoprene gloves are recommended when handling lacquer thinner.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 6, 2023 16:36:06 GMT -5
These days most folks who are willing to slab for a share of average materials take every other slab. Years ago before saws, blades, oil and electricity got so expensive it used to be every third slab.
The last price I saw for slabbing for cash was $1 per square inch. Which would limit the practicality of contracting to have most average materials slabbed- which may have been the ultimate goal of the one doing the pricing/slabbing.
I have more material waiting to slab than I have decent weather temperatures and tolerable humidity to do so. So I don't slab for others. But even if that weren't the case I would still try to avoid getting shanghaied into slabbing for others. I prefer to have complete freedom to choose what and when I slab. I don't like slabbing certain materials like Brazilian agates, thunder eggs, or any of the very hard nodular shaped agates, and some of the harder agatized woods because these are the materials I have found more likely to be involved in a vise slippage that can damage a blade, or are so hard that they cause undue wear on power feed components. So to me a few agate slabs, or a dollar per square inch isn't worth the risk having an expensive blade replacement or saw repair.
Also I've heard of a couple of situations where people accused the person who did the slabbing for them of stealing material because the person having the slabbing done couldn't comprehend how much loss in sludge waste there is when slabbing. So if you do decide to do contract slabbing it would probably be a good idea to try and make sure the cosigner understands that.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 6, 2023 15:43:12 GMT -5
The Hilquist and Covington are both saws to avoid, unless they practically give them to you and you can resell for a profit for the "good saw" fund. I'd qualify that statement to the Covington 10" and 16" saws should be avoided. But their 700 series which include their 18" thru 24" sizes are pretty well designed with the exception of their clutch systems which are a PITA but are easy enough to hack/bypass and operate without using. I've never used a Hillquist but have heard that their clutch system is a PITA too. But not having used a Hillquist don't know how easy their clutch may be to work around.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 2, 2023 16:29:59 GMT -5
If after letting the solids settle to the bottom of the pail and then pouring the water off as knave suggested, then leave the container open and let the rest of the moisture evaporate off. After saving up several batches then give the dried tumbling sludge to a local potter or to a local pottery class to use in their glazes. Those fine rock particles can make some cool ceramic glazes and the Silicon Carbide from the grit being present in the glaze can create a reduction glaze appearance even when fired in an oxidation environment including in an electric kiln.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 1, 2023 15:46:04 GMT -5
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 22, 2023 23:20:33 GMT -5
There are YouTube videos on cutting cabochons so you may want to check that out. And looking at your initial post I see you are from Fort Wayne. So if you haven't already, you may want to check out the Three Rivers Gem and Mineral Club which meets in Fort Wayne. You can get more info on the club at their website linked here: Edit: For some reason the link won't post. So just goggle "Three Rivers Gem and Mineral Club".
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 19, 2023 21:37:40 GMT -5
I've probably slabbed somewhere around 175 - 200 lbs of Polychrome Jasper. Maybe 5% or so has had the Misty Mountain pattern. And most of that misty Mountain that I have slabbed is grayish/blue and some has red or pink tints in areas. I've never seen that darker blue shown in the Sam Silverhawk link. That is gorgeous!
Madagascar Polychrome Jasper is one of my favorite scenic jaspers. There are a wide range of patterns and colors in this material. The dealers who trade under the "Enter The Earth" trade name import it. They have a retail shop and a warehouse in Asheville, NC. But I've heard that they are moving the warehouse to Tuscon, AZ. Up until covid hit they used to exhibit at the GLW wholesale show in Franklin, NC. Their booth was always one of my must-visit booths. They would bring literally tons of Madagascar Polychrome Jasper to the show and I would spend whatever amount of time it took to inspect every piece in their bins. I have really enjoyed slabbing that material and miss them not exhibiting here any longer. I guess I'm going to have to try and make it to the Tuscon or Denver show one of these years if I want to get to cherry-pick their stash again.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 18, 2023 19:58:03 GMT -5
I agree with realrockhound - Misty Mountain Jasper. Which is a pattern variety of Polychrome Jasper (also sometimes called Desert Jasper) from Madagascar.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 15, 2023 19:55:24 GMT -5
Very sorry to read this, there's nothing like the love of a good dog!
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 31, 2023 17:48:47 GMT -5
Found a good sized stump of a log at Congleton hollow, won't fit my 24"... I sure wish we had those kinds of problems here in the mid-Atlantic states!
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 31, 2023 17:42:22 GMT -5
I believe that my Poly Arbor D-14 and D-4 housings are cast aluminum. But the Poly Arbor line was made for over forty years. And by more than one producer. So I couldn't say for sure that they all were aluminum. Here is a scan of a Poly Arbor (Pasadena, CA) ad from a 1949 machine trade magazine where the description just says "Heavy Casting". My Poly Arbors were probably made in the early to mid 1970s in Monrovia, CA. And here is a Poly Arbor ad from a 1980 magazine after Raytech (Stafford Springs, CT) bought out the Poly Arbor line and began producing them in Connecticut. My D-14 appears to have a blue "hammered aluminum" paint finish. Hammered Aluminum paint is still available in aerosol cans. And it's been a few years since I checked but at that time it was available in the color similar to the finish on Poly Arbor and Raytech equipment. So if I were restoring a Poly Arbor housing I would be inclined to just strip off the old finish and then coat it with a "hammered" finish paint. That would be much less expensive than powder coating or anodizing and if someone wanted to restore the finish again in 30 or 40 years it will be much easier for them to redo. Those are very cool old ads. Mine is also made in Monrovia. You make a good point about a re-doable finish. I'm just hoping that I'm not the one having to redo it a few years from now if the spray paint doesn't like the wet, gritty environment. As long has the new paint has a good clean surface to adhere to then it should last a long time. Many of the older cabbing machines were painted and you can still find machines decades old that still have their original paint. Especially the aluminum ones that were painted like the B&I Gem Makers, Beacon Star and U.S. made Highland Park machines. Some of the older painted steel machines like the later Star Diamond models, and the earlier pre-stainless Lortones didn't hold up as well because the steel rusted. But most of the painted aluminum ones have done fine under normal comnditions.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 31, 2023 14:44:56 GMT -5
As for the large container with the faded label, if when mixed with water the powder tends to settle to the bottom of the contianer fairly quickly when undisturbed then it may be Raybrite"A", or Raybrite "B", or Raybrite TL. All are Aluminum Oxide, just in differing microns.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 31, 2023 14:33:24 GMT -5
Raytech's polishing compounds started with a "37" prefix i.e. 37-031 (1lb tin oxide), 37-012 (1lb Raybrite A). Their polishing and finishing discs began with the "38" prefix i.e. 38-015 (6" felt disc), 38-022 (6"x1-1/2" leather belt).
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 31, 2023 13:54:26 GMT -5
I believe that my Poly Arbor D-14 and D-4 housings are cast aluminum. But the Poly Arbor line was made for over forty years. And by more than one producer. So I couldn't say for sure that they all were aluminum. Here is a scan of a Poly Arbor (Pasadena, CA) ad from a 1949 machine trade magazine where the description just says "Heavy Casting". My Poly Arbors were probably made in the early to mid 1970s in Monrovia, CA. And here is a Poly Arbor ad from a 1980 magazine after Raytech (Stafford Springs, CT) bought out the Poly Arbor line and began producing them in Connecticut. My D-14 appears to have a blue "hammered aluminum" paint finish. Hammered Aluminum paint is still available in aerosol cans. And it's been a few years since I checked but at that time it was available in the color similar to the finish on Poly Arbor and Raytech equipment. So if I were restoring a Poly Arbor housing I would be inclined to just strip off the old finish and then coat it with a "hammered" finish paint. That would be much less expensive than powder coating or anodizing and if someone wanted to restore the finish again in 30 or 40 years it will be much easier for them to redo.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 22, 2023 2:11:14 GMT -5
About the time I was five I started picking up unusual rocks and bringing them home and leaving them all over the yard and the porch, much to my mother's discountenance and my father's befuddlement. They were sure that there must be something seriously wrong with me. And I suppose a legitimate argument could have been made that there was. When I was seven, a second grade classmate brought a rock collection that his uncle had given him to school for show & tell (hook sunk). Then for the next couple of years I spent a lot of time combing through rock and mineral books at the public library. The library would only let me check out the rock books published for children because I wasn't old enough to meet their criteria for checking the better rock books out of the adult section. So I had to view the better rock and mineral books on site at the library. Then when I was nine the local Rock & Gem Club started having their monthly meetings at said public library. So the second Tuesday evening of each month one of my parents would give me a shoulder roll in front of the library and two hours later come pick me up. Being a nine year old kid attending the Rock Club meetings on my own got the attention of some of the adults who gave me a lot of encouragement. Luckily for me one of the true rock/gem/fossil/artifact gurus of that generation took me under his wing and introduced me to lapidary. And a few years later used to invite me to travel to the gem shows with him. My parents still didn't get the rock fascination but relented and gave me a rock tumbler for Christmas of 1970 when I was nine years old. Then they gave me one of these Sears 4" cabbing machines (which I quickly wore out) the next year when I was ten. And then the Christmas of the following year (1972) was given a Sears 6" B&I Gem Maker flat lap with SC grinding and sanding discs which I used for cabbing for the next five or six years. Then my Dad helped me buy a 6" Lortone cabbing unit. I used that cabbing machine for around three decades on-again off-again. Around 1990 I bought my first faceting machine, a vintage used one with issues. Used that for a few months and then got so busy with work and life that it all got put aside for several years during which I sold the faceting machine and sold or gave away much of the slabs and rough. But later when the effects of NAFTA, GAFTA and China being Granted Favored Nation Trading Status freed up a good bit of my time, my interest in lapidary revived. I replaced my faceting machine, acquired a growing collection of slab saws and started buying old collections for the cutting rough, refurbishing the equipment when required, and reselling any of it that I didn't need for my use. These days my lapidary activities are mostly just slabbing, cabbing, and faceting. I'm sixty-two years old now and have brought unusual rocks home which have been left all over the yard and the porch, much to my wife's discountenance and my neighbor's befuddlement. And I'm pretty sure that they all think that there must be something seriously wrong with me ...and I suppose a legitimate argument could be made that there is!
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 21, 2023 23:54:59 GMT -5
Assuming that yours is made the same then yes, after loosening all of the set screws from both housing/bearing protective sleeves and the step pulley (there are usually at least two set screws on a 3-step pulley) you can tap or press the arbor towards the end that has the snap ring. But before you do be sure to run the arbor nuts to the end of the threaded shaft and maybe just a slight bit more so the nuts will protect the threaded ends of the shafts from getting marred or dented. Also it will help to put a few drops of Kriol or some other good joint loosening penetrating oil on both ends of the shaft and let soak a few minutes before attempting to move the shaft.
Once the shaft has been moved enough to push the bearing next to the snap ring out of it's position in the aluminum housing then remove the nut, flange washer, and the housing/bearing protective sleeve from the end that is being pressed and then use a block of softwood (pine will do) to protect the threads on the end of the shaft being pressed/tapped until the shaft is loose enough to pull out from the snap ring end. Then using a long metal punch or hardwood dowel, from the opposite end tap out the other bearing out of it's position from the aluminum housing. But don't get too rough doing this because those aluminum housings can crack.
Now you can clean up all of the parts with WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. And any rusted areas with 3in1 oil and 0000 steel wool and a fine wire brush like the small ones that Harbor Freight sells for around a buck.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 21, 2023 17:06:37 GMT -5
Those old Star Diamond Meteor blades were pretty good blades!
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 15, 2023 20:13:17 GMT -5
Well done! Thank you for the post!
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