Post by herb on Nov 22, 2022 12:26:33 GMT -5
To align a slab saw blade accurately, the way I was told to do it years ago was to take a dial gauge or a pointy object and set it in the vice. Then move the vice so the pointer is just barely touching at the front of the blade. Then push the vice all the way to the back and turn the blade 180 degrees so the pointer is at or near the same part of the blade. If there is a difference between the gap at the 2 readings, you make the appropriate adjustment and keep repeating the process until you get the blade as aligned as possible.
Awhile ago after I replaced a bearing and needed to realign the blade, I "came up" with a different method. I don't know if everybody else does it this way and I am just late to the party, but I think it is a much easier and quicker way. It does require using a dial gauge though.
What I did was mount the dial gauge in the vice and move the vice so the dial gauge is just barely touching at the front of the blade and then zeroed out the gauge.
Then I rotated the blade (by turning the drive pulley, not by grabbing the blade directly) and watch what the dial gauge reads as you make several complete rotations of the blade. In my case, the first time I got -15 to +40 thousandths. I made so adjustments, made sure the gauge was just barely touching the blade again, zeroed out the gauge and spun the blade again. After a few quick cycles of this I got my blade to -5 to +11 thousandths (my blade is not perfectly flat)
I thought the whole process was easier and faster. Plus you get a reading of the entire circumference of the blade instead of just a point. I think that is better, especially if your blade is no longer perfectly flat. I assume it is less strain on the motor if your blade is off -5 to +11 than it is if it is off 0 to +17
Awhile ago after I replaced a bearing and needed to realign the blade, I "came up" with a different method. I don't know if everybody else does it this way and I am just late to the party, but I think it is a much easier and quicker way. It does require using a dial gauge though.
What I did was mount the dial gauge in the vice and move the vice so the dial gauge is just barely touching at the front of the blade and then zeroed out the gauge.
Then I rotated the blade (by turning the drive pulley, not by grabbing the blade directly) and watch what the dial gauge reads as you make several complete rotations of the blade. In my case, the first time I got -15 to +40 thousandths. I made so adjustments, made sure the gauge was just barely touching the blade again, zeroed out the gauge and spun the blade again. After a few quick cycles of this I got my blade to -5 to +11 thousandths (my blade is not perfectly flat)
I thought the whole process was easier and faster. Plus you get a reading of the entire circumference of the blade instead of just a point. I think that is better, especially if your blade is no longer perfectly flat. I assume it is less strain on the motor if your blade is off -5 to +11 than it is if it is off 0 to +17