rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jan 9, 2023 9:27:18 GMT -5
Hi everyone - just looking for some tips for a newbie slant cabber. I got the Hi-Tech version for Christmas and ran it for the first time yesterday. I started with some cut geodes and just polished the cut side - seemed to turn out ok. then I tried some green opal just to see if I could round it - was a square piece and rounded nicely and easily. Then I tried a piece of desert jasper (I think that's what it is?  ) that I started with the dremel and wanted to see if I could cab it and polish it. I was so proud of it until I looked a the images up close and could see so many scratches through it. Are the directions for the slant the same as for the regular cabbing machines like the cab king? And, if so - can someone help me understand how my grits work here? I currently have the following: 80 electroplated diamond lap 180 electroplated diamond lap (3000 electroplated diamond disc, but don't have the backer plate yet) 325 brown diamond smoothing disc 600 red diamond smoothing disc 1200 blue diamond smoothing disc 3000 orange diamond smoothing disc 14000 diamond polishing paste (and extender liquid) on polisher disc Do I need more sizes of electroplated diamond laps? Should I be using the foamier backings for the smoothing/polishing stages instead of the rigid backs? I've attached the stone here too (please be gentle, it's my first go and the sample was quite thick to begin with). Lastly - and I know this depends on material being used, but how long do I spend on each wheel? I honestly thought this looked shiny and smooth until I saw it up close in the picture and noted all of the scratches - telling me I either need more stages of the electroplated diamond laps, or just longer on the ones I have? I did peruse the tutorials, but they seemed mostly for the cab king type cabber and I wasn't sure if there was a difference. Had TONS of fun working with it, but want to be sure I'm doing what I'm supposed to do. Thanks!  |
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Post by jasoninsd on Jan 9, 2023 10:11:42 GMT -5
Hey Peta! I worked on the same slant cabber for about a year before I got my cabbing machine. I'll see if I can answer some of your questions... You have the same disks I started with...and was able to accomplish great results on most material with just those. (They're basically the same series of grits I use on my cabbing machine now.) As far as I'm concerned, you don't "need" any additional disks...but there's a difference between need and want! LOL You should have the foam backing on the 325-3000 disks. This is what enables the surface of the disk to "indent" and "curve" around the surface of the cab while you're working it. How long do you spend on each disk? Well...until the scratches are out, you shouldn't be moving onto the next level. There's no other answer.  I would HIGHLY recommend spending a few bucks on an Optivisor. I bought an inexpensive knock-off type thingy off eBay and it has served me just fine. I also recommend getting a "magnifying lamp" that's on a swing-arm. When I'm cabbing, I actually watch my cab on the wheels (like I did on the slant cabber) through the magnifying lamp. Then, when I THINK I'm done on a wheel/disk I'll look at the cab through the magnifying lamp with my Optivisor to see if I've gotten all the scratches out. Here's the deal with that though...with that much magnification, you'll still see scratches. Experience will tell you which scratches are "deep enough" to keep working on the grit you're on...or if they're shallow enough to move onto the next grit. Learning that will come with time and experience...because each material is different with regards to that as well! Feel free to tag me with any questions and I'll do the best I can to answer them.  |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jan 9, 2023 10:24:32 GMT -5
Thank you, Jason!!! Good to know I didn't need to purchase the additional discs - however, sad to know I should have used the foam backing on the smoothing discs (can I remove and replace, I wonder? Or buy all new  I may practice on what I have and when needed replace with the foam backer). I didn't really time how long I worked on each disc - 5-10 mins maybe? I have a LED loupe that I'd use to look through to try and determine how the rock looked, but my led light was dying on me and the garage lighting was likely too low - hubby mentioned getting one of those magnifiers with the light so I think I'll look into that for sure along with the optivisor you mention - interesting - don't have one of those. I appreciate this information and the offer for future questions (you may regret that lol). I'll definitely keep on keepin' on because it really is a lot of fun...THANKS! |
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herb
spending too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 475
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Post by herb on Jan 9, 2023 10:39:33 GMT -5
rocknewb101Since you are new to cabbing I'll add the advice to dry off the piece you are working on before looking for scratches! Its obvious advice for anyone whose been cabbing, but might not be obvious for someone just starting out!
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jan 9, 2023 10:41:15 GMT -5
rocknewb101 Since you are new to cabbing I'll add the advice to dry off the piece you are working on before looking for scratches! Its obvious advice for anyone whose been cabbing, but might not be obvious for someone just starting out! Thank you! Yes, it's crazy how much nicer the rocks look wet I will definitely keep this in mind moving forward. |
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Post by jasoninsd on Jan 9, 2023 16:51:45 GMT -5
rocknewb101 Since you are new to cabbing I'll add the advice to dry off the piece you are working on before looking for scratches! Its obvious advice for anyone whose been cabbing, but might not be obvious for someone just starting out! Hefty, thanks for bringing this up! One thing that I've noticed is sometimes it's easier for me to see "divots" or "flat spots" when I'm still in the grinding stages when the cab is "damp". It doesn't work if the cab is sopping wet...but barely damp. When I get into the sanding/polishing stages (325 and up for Peta), then I make sure the stone is dry. ONE THING TO REMEMBER ABOUT REMOVING SCRATCHES: I think a lot of people try to work the scratch itself when they're trying to get rid of them. Don't do this. You have to work the area AROUND the scratch. The scratch has already determined the "new level" the surface has to be...which is equal to the deepest part of the scratch. If you work the area surrounding the scratch, you'll get the surface down to that bottom level of the scratch. Thanks...I'll be here all week. Don't forget to tip the wait-staff!  |
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Jan 9, 2023 22:15:52 GMT -5
You've gotten good advice so far on using your flat laps. If you already put your smoothing discs on the backer plates without the rubber pads, you're kind of SOL. Taking those discs off is difficult without destroying them because the adhesive holds really good. DO NOT DESPAIR! You can still use them that way. It will be a little harder smoothing out the tops of your cabs but you will develop your very own rockin', rollin' and spinning technique to smooth them out (usually on the 325 disc). I know because I've been there, done that.  When you are working to smooth the cabs out, use less pressure during the above rockin', rollin' and spinning. Once you get it all nice and smooth, continue that same thing on the next grit disc. It won't take nearly as long once you have it smooth to complete the next step. |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jan 10, 2023 8:03:54 GMT -5
So much great advice here! Thanks, jasoninsd for the tip about not working the scratch - I'd not actually considered that but it makes total sense! hummingbirdstones - thanks for letting me know about the smoothing pads - thought it would be near impossible to remove, but glad to know I can still use them. I work and practice on them and once they wear out then I'll buy the foam pads too. Appreciate this forum for all the knowledge and helpfullness! Thank you!! |
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Post by jasoninsd on Jan 10, 2023 10:10:43 GMT -5
So much great advice here! Thanks, jasoninsd for the tip about not working the scratch - I'd not actually considered that but it makes total sense! hummingbirdstones - thanks for letting me know about the smoothing pads - thought it would be near impossible to remove, but glad to know I can still use them. I work and practice on them and once they wear out then I'll buy the foam pads too. Appreciate this forum for all the knowledge and helpfullness! Thank you!! I remember when I ran across that tip...it was like a light bulb going off! (And since I don't have a lot going on up there, a single little mental lightbulb makes a huge impact! LOL) |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jan 10, 2023 10:32:47 GMT -5
So much great advice here! Thanks, jasoninsd for the tip about not working the scratch - I'd not actually considered that but it makes total sense! hummingbirdstones - thanks for letting me know about the smoothing pads - thought it would be near impossible to remove, but glad to know I can still use them. I work and practice on them and once they wear out then I'll buy the foam pads too. Appreciate this forum for all the knowledge and helpfullness! Thank you!! I remember when I ran across that tip...it was like a light bulb going off! (And since I don't have a lot going on up there, a single little mental lightbulb makes a huge impact! LOL) hahaha! Now now - look at all of the helpful info you give RTH members...rocks in the head is a GREAT thing |
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stefan
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Jan 11, 2023 18:46:18 GMT -5
I really struggled when I first started out. A dear friend on here gave the DUH moment in my learning curve and I have never looked back. (RIP Stoner)
Get yourself a small cube of a stone with little to no pattern (I used a very plain cube of Brazilian agate) What your looking for is a lot of small flat surfaces.
Start with your first lap (in your case the 80 grit). Grind the surface in one direction only. Dry it off and look under magnification (I use a 10x loupe but my old eyes ain't what they used to be) Study those scratches. THey should all be running the same direction (if not regrind again in the same direction)
Wash your stone and move to the next highest grit and run the stone at a 90 degree angle to the first set of scratches. Again once you think you're done dry off and study. You will notice any scratch that you missed because they will be perpendicular to the current ones. If you don't see any perpendicular scratches then congrates!
move on to the next grit and repeat (once again at a 90 degree to the last scratches) You will reach the point where you will discover where you are going wrong and missing scratches. Pay attention to this step. (for me it was between 400 and 600 grit)
Once you are successful on the side you're working on, pick another side and do it all over again. By the time you finish your cube, you will be an expert (or at least will have a nice shiney cube)
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jan 12, 2023 8:10:13 GMT -5
I really struggled when I first started out. A dear friend on here gave the DUH moment in my learning curve and I have never looked back. (RIP Stoner) Get yourself a small cube of a stone with little to no pattern (I used a very plain cube of Brazilian agate) What your looking for is a lot of small flat surfaces. Start with your first lap (in your case the 80 grit). Grind the surface in one direction only. Dry it off and look under magnification (I use a 10x loupe but my old eyes ain't what they used to be) Study those scratches. THey should all be running the same direction (if not regrind again in the same direction) Wash your stone and move to the next highest grit and run the stone at a 90 degree angle to the first set of scratches. Again once you think you're done dry off and study. You will notice any scratch that you missed because they will be perpendicular to the current ones. If you don't see any perpendicular scratches then congrates! move on to the next grit and repeat (once again at a 90 degree to the last scratches) You will reach the point where you will discover where you are going wrong and missing scratches. Pay attention to this step. (for me it was between 400 and 600 grit) Once you are successful on the side you're working on, pick another side and do it all over again. By the time you finish your cube, you will be an expert (or at least will have a nice shiney cube) THANK YOU stefan! I will try this this weekend. I got myself the funny little optiplex magnifier glasses and a lighted bendy magnifying glass so I think that will definitely help me see - I have the 10x loupe, but wore the batteries out of the led light lol...I'm ready to roll!! |
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Jan 13, 2023 17:26:01 GMT -5
I must retract part of my statement. It appears the stoner is still alive (at least he was as of Nov. 2022. stoner if you see this I apologize for bumping you off before you were ready. I am also questioning my entire life as I am positive I read of his passing on a thread on here. Mannheim effect?
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Post by jasoninsd on Jan 13, 2023 19:57:35 GMT -5
I must retract part of my statement. It appears the stoner is still alive (at least he was as of Nov. 2022. stoner if you see this I apologize for bumping you off before you were ready. I am also questioning my entire life as I am positive I read of his passing on a thread on here. Mannheim effect? Just too many Star Trek episodes! |
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Jan 14, 2023 15:57:38 GMT -5
Thank goodness someone got the reference!
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) that I started with the dremel and wanted to see if I could cab it and polish it. I was so proud of it until I looked a the images up close and could see so many scratches through it. Are the directions for the slant the same as for the regular cabbing machines like the cab king? And, if so - can someone help me understand how my grits work here? I currently have the following:
I may practice on what I have and when needed replace with the foam backer). 
When you are working to smooth the cabs out, use less pressure during the above rockin', rollin' and spinning. Once you get it all nice and smooth, continue that same thing on the next grit disc. It won't take nearly as long once you have it smooth to complete the next step.
