christibeach
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2023
Posts: 13
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Post by christibeach on Mar 22, 2023 19:12:42 GMT -5
Just picked up this saw at a rock club equipment swap last night. I went in hopes of getting a vibe tumbler (no such luck). The meeting was 7pm-9pm, so we showed up at 6:45 to scout the deals "early"... apparently we should have been even earlier, because 95% of the equipment had already sold by the time we arrived. Oops. When we got there, this was the only saw left on the sale table. I paid the $100 fast and crossed my fingers that it was a good deal, haha. My plan is to cut cab shapes out of thin slabs. I have materials ranging from pet coral, pet wood, jasper, obsidian, agate, etc. The gentleman told me I will need to get a “thicker” blade, because this current blade is for gemstones... but I can't find any info online about the blade, and don't have a way to measure its thickness. Do I need different blades for different slab materials? My understanding from what the seller said last night implied that I do, but I thought a blade that will work on agate will cut everything same hardness and lower...? After re-wording my Google searches several times over, I can’t find any info on this saw or blade. Would love any advice, info, or feedback on this saw and perhaps which 4” blades are best. EDIT TO ADD: It looks as though an aftermarket motor has been added to this saw. The of the unit was sawed out to reveal a motor similar to this one, only mine is 3200 RPM: www.electricmotorstore.net/dayton-3m292-hvac-motor-18-hp-3000-rpm-115v-3-3/Hopefully that will give this guy more power and better air circulation (depending on the surface it's sitting on during operation, of course). Thanks to comments below, I was able to understand blade sizes better, and discovered this machine has a 1/2" arbor, and the blade that came on it is a 5/8" arbor that was installed off-center. I ordered new blades this morning, so I'll get to actually play with the saw once they get here. Thanks for all the input, y'all!!!
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Post by vegasjames on Mar 22, 2023 19:22:37 GMT -5
I would not run these saws more than maybe 15 minutes without a break to let them cool. They have small motors and can easily overheat.
Go slow when cutting freeforms from slabs again due to the small motor size.
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Post by rockjunquie on Mar 22, 2023 20:32:07 GMT -5
Score!
I can't speak to your saw, I never heard of it, but I have a small trimsaw and I cut everything with a thin blade including some slabs. I've never had a problem with overheating, but mine is a more reputable brand. (sorry, don't mean to dis your saw) I use those disposable cheapie blades you can find on eBay. I think I give about 2 a piece and they last through many cuts- depending on what I'm cutting. These are from China, but they came super fast and they are super cheap. www.ebay.com/itm/155222887533 I have used better blades, too. But, these are fine.
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Post by jasoninsd on Mar 22, 2023 21:17:28 GMT -5
Congrats on the trim saw Christi!! I don't have a saw as small as that...but I've picked up the same type of blades Tela recommended for my 7" and can't speak badly about them...for what that's worth!
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dirtsifter
Cave Dweller
Co to za kamyczek?
Member since September 2022
Posts: 402
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Post by dirtsifter on Mar 23, 2023 0:15:31 GMT -5
I did a quick search around and found the same mfg/model on some sites for $160...soooo score for you!
I searched 4 inch lapidary trim saw manufactured by Gemstone Equipment MFG
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Post by vegasjames on Mar 23, 2023 1:34:45 GMT -5
Score!
I can't speak to your saw, I never heard of it, but I have a small trimsaw and I cut everything with a thin blade including some slabs. I've never had a problem with overheating, but mine is a more reputable brand. (sorry, don't mean to dis your saw) I use those disposable cheapie blades you can find on eBay. I think I give about 2 a piece and they last through many cuts- depending on what I'm cutting. These are from China, but they came super fast and they are super cheap. www.ebay.com/itm/155222887533 I have used better blades, too. But, these are fine. I have a similar saw and they recommend not running it for more than 20 minutes. The motors inside are only about 2 inches round and about 4 inches long and do not take a high load. They are also inside without air circulation to cool them.
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Post by rockjunquie on Mar 23, 2023 1:42:05 GMT -5
Score!
I can't speak to your saw, I never heard of it, but I have a small trimsaw and I cut everything with a thin blade including some slabs. I've never had a problem with overheating, but mine is a more reputable brand. (sorry, don't mean to dis your saw) I use those disposable cheapie blades you can find on eBay. I think I give about 2 a piece and they last through many cuts- depending on what I'm cutting. These are from China, but they came super fast and they are super cheap. www.ebay.com/itm/155222887533 I have used better blades, too. But, these are fine. I have a similar saw and they recommend not running it for more than 20 minutes. The motors inside are only about 2 inches round and about 4 inches long and do not take a high load. They are also inside without air circulation to cool them. Guess I've been lucky.
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lorney
having dreams about rocks
Member since December 2020
Posts: 59
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Post by lorney on Mar 23, 2023 7:11:58 GMT -5
I have the exact same Gemstone saw. I picked it up used but have never used it myself. When I got it there was no table or blade. I was able to fit a hitech diamond table and spray guard on it and a blade from them as well. I have the hitech diamond 4/5” trim saw that I use so never had a reason to use the gemstone. Can’t speak to the motor heating issues of the Gemstone but have cut quite a bit with my hitech and never had it over heat.
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Mar 23, 2023 9:30:51 GMT -5
I have the exact same Gemstone saw. I picked it up used but have never used it myself. When I got it there was no table or blade. I was able to fit a hitech diamond table and spray guard on it and a blade from them as well. I have the hitech diamond 4/5” trim saw that I use so never had a reason to use the gemstone. Can’t speak to the motor heating issues of the Gemstone but have cut quite a bit with my hitech and never had it over heat. I have this same saw lorney. I admit I don't love it, but its likely a learning curve on my end than anything else - I find its hard to get little cuts because the blade is so bendy, instead of cutting, it just bends until I get that first little notch and then I'm good. But, it was in my price range and does allow me to cut so there's that I've also never had mine overheat, but I dont' cut for long periods of time either (it's still cold in NE Ohio and my fingers can only take so much haha!)
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christibeach
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2023
Posts: 13
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Post by christibeach on Mar 23, 2023 15:57:37 GMT -5
I have the exact same Gemstone saw. I picked it up used but have never used it myself. When I got it there was no table or blade. I was able to fit a hitech diamond table and spray guard on it and a blade from them as well. I have the hitech diamond 4/5” trim saw that I use so never had a reason to use the gemstone. Can’t speak to the motor heating issues of the Gemstone but have cut quite a bit with my hitech and never had it over heat. I have this same saw lorney . I admit I don't love it, but its likely a learning curve on my end than anything else - I find its hard to get little cuts because the blade is so bendy, instead of cutting, it just bends until I get that first little notch and then I'm good. But, it was in my price range and does allow me to cut so there's that I've also never had mine overheat, but I dont' cut for long periods of time either (it's still cold in NE Ohio and my fingers can only take so much haha!) Glad to hear I'm not the only owner of this lovely model, haha. The responses in this thread have given me better direction on how to research this thing. I didn't understand blade sizes or how to search for them yesterday- yikes. After taking the blade off mine and taking some measurements, I found the blade it came with is 4" wide, 0.020 core, and a 5/8" arbor. I'm hoping that explained the inconsistency of this blade's rotation, as this saw requires a 1/2" arbor, and the previous owner didn't use anything to keep the blade centered. Hoping to buy some new blades for it today. It seems that 4" / 0.02 / 1/2" is a difficult blade to find, though not impossible. rocknewb101 - Do you know what the core/thickness of your blade is? The previous owner told me the 0.02 would be too thin for agate slabs, but I'm not finding blades much thicker than that. So far, 0.024 is the thickest I have found. Also, are you using mineral oil or water in your saw? Again, previous owner told me water worked fine, but all the blades I'm finding say either say "Designed for use with water soluble coolant" or "Use with Lubri-Kool or similar".
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christibeach
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2023
Posts: 13
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Post by christibeach on Mar 23, 2023 17:03:20 GMT -5
Score!
I can't speak to your saw, I never heard of it, but I have a small trimsaw and I cut everything with a thin blade including some slabs. I've never had a problem with overheating, but mine is a more reputable brand. (sorry, don't mean to dis your saw) I use those disposable cheapie blades you can find on eBay. I think I give about 2 a piece and they last through many cuts- depending on what I'm cutting. These are from China, but they came super fast and they are super cheap. www.ebay.com/itm/155222887533 I have used better blades, too. But, these are fine. I have a similar saw and they recommend not running it for more than 20 minutes. The motors inside are only about 2 inches round and about 4 inches long and do not take a high load. They are also inside without air circulation to cool them. Woah, really?? vegasjames , that makes me wonder if someone souped this up with a new motor. The bottom has an aftermarket cut-out, and the current motor is a Dayton Model 3M292. It's 4" round and 5" long, fully double the size you mentioned. The link below is very similar, but probably an updated version of what's in my saw, and it has slightly lower RPMs. The label on mine says 1/8 H.P., 3200 RPMs, 115 V. www.electricmotorstore.net/dayton-3m292-hvac-motor-18-hp-3000-rpm-115v-3-3/I don't have experience with motors, so I'm on a huge learning curve here. Am I correct in guessing someone made this potentially more powerful and created more airflow for cooling but cutting out the bottom altogether? I don't currently have a saw blade that will work properly on the machine, so I'm waiting on the new blades in the mail before I can play with it. Hoping to learn
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Post by vegasjames on Mar 23, 2023 18:00:25 GMT -5
I have a similar saw and they recommend not running it for more than 20 minutes. The motors inside are only about 2 inches round and about 4 inches long and do not take a high load. They are also inside without air circulation to cool them. Woah, really?? vegasjames , that makes me wonder if someone souped this up with a new motor. The bottom has an aftermarket cut-out, and the current motor is a Dayton Model 3M292. It's 4" round and 5" long, fully double the size you mentioned. The link below is very similar, but probably an updated version of what's in my saw, and it has slightly lower RPMs. The label on mine says 1/8 H.P., 3200 RPMs, 115 V. www.electricmotorstore.net/dayton-3m292-hvac-motor-18-hp-3000-rpm-115v-3-3/I don't have experience with motors, so I'm on a huge learning curve here. Am I correct in guessing someone made this potentially more powerful and created more airflow for cooling but cutting out the bottom altogether? I don't currently have a saw blade that will work properly on the machine, so I'm waiting on the new blades in the mail before I can play with it. Hoping to learn Does look like someone changed the motor in that
I tried to find a pic of the motors I am talking about, but did not find any. Did find out that they did start using large motors in the more modern saws like this.
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lorney
having dreams about rocks
Member since December 2020
Posts: 59
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Post by lorney on Mar 23, 2023 18:32:56 GMT -5
My saw has the same rough cut out. Maybe just the way they were made back then. No need to make it look nice when it’s on the bottom of the saw. My motor is a Dayton model: 9M748 and is 3200 rpm. No idea if this saw motor was changed or not. I have been getting some advice about an older Pixie I picked up recently. I have been told that if they sit around for years and don’t get used regularly you should change out the capacitor on the motor. Otherwise it can lead to a motor possibly overheating and burning out. Maybe these little motors are the same. You can see the capacitor beside the motor. I don’t know what capacitors do for motors but this is what I have been told. Could explain why some people are having overheating issues with these old saws.
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Post by Rockoonz on Mar 24, 2023 1:32:54 GMT -5
I think the saw I just got in an estate a month or so is the same thing only white plastic, I'll get motor pics when I go over it, right now there is a loose connection somewhere on switch or motor. The motor is smaller and definitely not a Dayton, so you must have an update.
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Mar 24, 2023 7:16:05 GMT -5
I have this same saw lorney . I admit I don't love it, but its likely a learning curve on my end than anything else - I find its hard to get little cuts because the blade is so bendy, instead of cutting, it just bends until I get that first little notch and then I'm good. But, it was in my price range and does allow me to cut so there's that I've also never had mine overheat, but I dont' cut for long periods of time either (it's still cold in NE Ohio and my fingers can only take so much haha!) Glad to hear I'm not the only owner of this lovely model, haha. The responses in this thread have given me better direction on how to research this thing. I didn't understand blade sizes or how to search for them yesterday- yikes. After taking the blade off mine and taking some measurements, I found the blade it came with is 4" wide, 0.020 core, and a 5/8" arbor. I'm hoping that explained the inconsistency of this blade's rotation, as this saw requires a 1/2" arbor, and the previous owner didn't use anything to keep the blade centered. Hoping to buy some new blades for it today. It seems that 4" / 0.02 / 1/2" is a difficult blade to find, though not impossible. rocknewb101 - Do you know what the core/thickness of your blade is? The previous owner told me the 0.02 would be too thin for agate slabs, but I'm not finding blades much thicker than that. So far, 0.024 is the thickest I have found. Also, are you using mineral oil or water in your saw? Again, previous owner told me water worked fine, but all the blades I'm finding say either say "Designed for use with water soluble coolant" or "Use with Lubri-Kool or similar". I'm confirming that it's the hi-tech diamond saw I have, not the other one you mentioned (can't see the name of it now) - for the hi-tech I have two blades, both 5" - the sintered blade has .012 core x 0.15 kerf and the thin notched blade has .006 core x .009 kerf. The thin notched is a relatively cheap blade (only $7) but it's the one that 'bends' on me until I can get that first notch...good luck! I hope you can have success finding what you need.
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Post by Rockoonz on Mar 24, 2023 10:38:27 GMT -5
For the little plastic saws with speed controls and ultra thin blades, I found that going full speed to make that first notch works best, centrifugal force holds the blade flatter. The one I'm working on has an inline switch on the cord, I really hate those. Pretty sure it's the problem.
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Mar 24, 2023 11:54:55 GMT -5
rocknewb101 change your blade out with a little thicker one. Those really thin blades are really made for trimming high dollar faceting rough in order to not lose a lot of material during a cut. A thicker one will help with the flexing and if you're just cutting regular rocks, you're not going to lose enough material with a thicker kerf to worry about it. Why frustrate yourself?
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Mar 24, 2023 12:18:06 GMT -5
rocknewb101 change your blade out with a little thicker one. Those really thin blades are really made for trimming high dollar faceting rough in order to not lose a lot of material during a cut. A thicker one will help with the flexing and if you're just cutting regular rocks, you're not going to lose enough material with a thicker kerf to worry about it. Why frustrate yourself? hummingbirdstones I was wondering!! I have a tile saw too, but that blade is like 3 x as thick. I mainly use the little trim saw when I'm trying to trim out my free forms for cabbing, or will try to slab a small rock with it - it can't handle anything large, and I think I bent my sintered blade trying to cut pet wood with it (probably using too much force, I've since learned). Any idea what the thicker kerf would measure? I'm assuming it's somewhere between the trim saw blade and the tile saw blade. THanks!!
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Mar 24, 2023 12:19:29 GMT -5
For the little plastic saws with speed controls and ultra thin blades, I found that going full speed to make that first notch works best, centrifugal force holds the blade flatter. The one I'm working on has an inline switch on the cord, I really hate those. Pretty sure it's the problem. That's what I usually do. Slower speed and it doesn't seem to want to touch the rock - I honestly regret buying it and wish I'd saved for something bigger/better, but it's what I have so I'll work with it
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Mar 24, 2023 12:21:09 GMT -5
christibeach - I forgot to mention that I use water in mine. With as much water as it flings around, I couldn't imagine it being oil lol...
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