valorguy
starting to shine!
Member since August 2022
Posts: 28
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Post by valorguy on Apr 1, 2023 22:49:36 GMT -5
I just purchased this saw at a sale today, and have several questions, if anyone can answer these I would appreciate it.
First, can I convert this from oil to water? Anything else to watch out for if using water?
Second, is there supposed to be a splash guard? I didn't get one with the machine..
Last, does this have a drain on the bottom? I haven't opened it up because dreading changing our the nasty oil...
Thank you for suggestions, ideas, and answers.
Peace
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Apr 2, 2023 11:03:01 GMT -5
You can download a copy of the operating instructions here: rick8260.wixsite.com/raytechsawI appears you should you oil with it. The schematics are also in the operating instructions. |
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gunsil
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2023
Posts: 345
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Post by gunsil on Apr 2, 2023 11:06:59 GMT -5
The Raytech 10" saw is a fine machine. They do not have drains, they have removable plastic sumps or tubs inside. You merely loosen the wing nut under the table and tilt the table back to remove the sump and empty it. Therefore it is no problem to use either water or oil in it since it is so easy to empty sump. If using water you will have to empty it after each use or the water will rust out the blade. Even if you use rust deterrent additives, always empty the sump when leaving saw sit for over a day. I never use mine as a trim say, only for small slabbing. Mine has a plexiglass cover for the saw which cannot be used if using as a trim saw. Rick Scott is still making new Raytech 10" saws and has a good supply of parts available, you should look at his website. I think it's Raytech Scott or similar, I just ordered parts for my Raytech 6" trim saw from him. My 10" saw power feed ceased working and I ordered a new brass split nut from Rick to remedy the situation. Is your power feed working?.
Robin just posted while I was typing, the link she provides is the one you need for any parts and a manual. Oh, and if it is an old saw you will need to replace the gasket between the table and the base with sump, you can get one from Rick too. It's best to call him up since he has no prices for parts on his site and he also has gasket mmaterial he does not list, just ask him about it.
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Post by manofglass on Apr 2, 2023 11:15:21 GMT -5
I had a 6" I mounted mine in a plastic dish pan you could try that I had to cut the pan where the arbor was
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gunsil
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2023
Posts: 345
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Post by gunsil on Apr 2, 2023 11:18:10 GMT -5
I had a 6" I mounted mine in a plastic dish pan you could try that I had to cut the pan where the arbor was The original plastic sumps are still available, no need to modify anything. |
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Post by Rockoonz on Apr 2, 2023 11:18:47 GMT -5
Personally I only use water with 8" and smaller blades, but there are blades on the market that work pretty good with water at any size. By splash guard do you mean the "fender" over the blade, the shield on the front of the saw table, or a clear plastic top? As posted above, the parts are available for it, and some can be fabricated fairly easily as well.
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Post by manofglass on Apr 2, 2023 11:38:11 GMT -5
I had a 6" I mounted mine in a plastic dish pan you could try that I had to cut the pan where the arbor was The original plastic sumps are still available, no need to modify anything. Ya but it doesn't hold enough water to bother with I pitched mine the plastic dish pan worked much better |
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gunsil
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2023
Posts: 345
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Post by gunsil on Apr 2, 2023 11:43:13 GMT -5
I have two, one with water and one with oil, the sumps work fine for either. Don't really need much oil or water for trimming, and my 10" works just fine with either water or oil for slabbing, sump holds plenty enough. These Raytechs were advanced design and have been the workhorses in many lapidary shops around the world and still are and they function perfectly well as designed. I sure wish my Barranca 10" had a removable sump, it is a pain in the butt to clean.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 2, 2023 12:22:34 GMT -5
I bought a 10" Raytech that someone defeated its best feature by cutting a drain hole in the plastic sump and the saw frame. I guess they wanted it to be a awkward as eveyone else's saw. Raytech's small saws are well designed and good buys when found in the used state.
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gunsil
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2023
Posts: 345
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Post by gunsil on Apr 2, 2023 16:17:58 GMT -5
Agree, I have a Raytech 18' saw also that is better designed than HP, Lortone, or Covington, a real shame they stopped making them. It has infinitely adjustable power feed speed and an ammeter to see power use to determine if feed speed/load is too fast. The blade spins clockwise so it hits the rock coming up out of the oil sump rather than having the blade spin 3/4 ways around from oil before blade meets rock. Best vise and carriage design too. the only saw with a better feed are the hydraulic feed saws. The Raytech was the Rolls Royce of 18" saws before it was discontinued. I think the price was their demise, they were close to five grand in 1982. If anybody gets a chance to purchase one I'd advise they do.
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valorguy
starting to shine!
Member since August 2022
Posts: 28
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Post by valorguy on Apr 2, 2023 20:47:10 GMT -5
The Raytech 10" saw is a fine machine. They do not have drains, they have removable plastic sumps or tubs inside. You merely loosen the wing nut under the table and tilt the table back to remove the sump and empty it. Therefore it is no problem to use either water or oil in it since it is so easy to empty sump. If using water you will have to empty it after each use or the water will rust out the blade. Even if you use rust deterrent additives, always empty the sump when leaving saw sit for over a day. I never use mine as a trim say, only for small slabbing. Mine has a plexiglass cover for the saw which cannot be used if using as a trim saw. Rick Scott is still making new Raytech 10" saws and has a good supply of parts available, you should look at his website. I think it's Raytech Scott or similar, I just ordered parts for my Raytech 6" trim saw from him. My 10" saw power feed ceased working and I ordered a new brass split nut from Rick to remedy the situation. Is your power feed working?.
Robin just posted while I was typing, the link she provides is the one you need for any parts and a manual. Oh, and if it is an old saw you will need to replace the gasket between the table and the base with sump, you can get one from Rick too. It's best to call him up since he has no prices for parts on his site and he also has gasket mmaterial he does not list, just ask him about it.
Thank you - the oil is smelly and messy to use in my basement, so I will always clean it before putting it up... Water would be best for me, just making sure someone else had used water before without and issue. The current oil is dark brown, as they had been cutting boulder opal.... So messy lol. I will call Rick to get prices - when I opened the control panel, some of the wires are cracked and the panel has oil all in it and in the plug the connects the motor, etc... I need to fix the wiring myself I htink and replace the outlet in that control panel. Will probably need gasket(s) too - I just haven't opened it up. |
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gunsil
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2023
Posts: 345
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Post by gunsil on Apr 2, 2023 21:05:13 GMT -5
Older oil like Almag stinks, many today use clear mineral oil which is fairly odorless. I stopped using water after forgetting to empty it and it sat for two months. Blade was too rusted to use. I will use water for softer more porous stones but harder stuff like jasper and agate are better cut using oil. The rocks don't care but your blade will probably like oil for harder stuff. I get oil in my power feed box too from the mist entering through the drive shaft hole. Using water you have to watch for water build up in the box. Replacing all the wires is a great idea.
I just put an older 6" Raytech saw back together and when I fired it up for a few minutes I noticed oil all over the base I had just made. I tested the sump, no leaks, need a new gasket which I have on order from Rick.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 3, 2023 6:47:51 GMT -5
Sometimes that oil coming out of otherwise good condition saws is just from overfilling them. If I recall correctly mineral oil is not a conductor so. . . it shouldn't be a problem in and around electrical connections except for the "mess". I know the switch on my trim saw sees a fair amount of oil and glick but has never acted up with periodic wipedowns.
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gunsil
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2023
Posts: 345
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Post by gunsil on Apr 3, 2023 7:33:38 GMT -5
No,I didn't overfill it, I have two and put same amount in newly put together saw as my other one. This saw has been sitting unused in my garage for ten years and was sitting for years before I acquired it. Rubber gaskets do dry out and become hard with a lack of use and age. I also know the oil isn't conductive, I don't worry about any shorts in my power feed control box. I merely pointed out that I get oil in there to let valorguy know if he uses water he has to watch for accumulation since water will short electricity.
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herb
spending too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 475
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Post by herb on Apr 3, 2023 9:10:07 GMT -5
I bought a 10" Raytech that someone defeated its best feature by cutting a drain hole in the plastic sump and the saw frame. I guess they wanted it to be a awkward as eveyone else's saw. Raytech's small saws are well designed and good buys when found in the used state. I have a 10 inch raytech also, and wouldn't mind if it had a drain plug in the bottom! I find it a pain to try scraping off all the oil from the table. You cant get it all, so when the table gets lifted, oil drips off the back of the machine onto the bench the saw sits on. Even when wiping off the table top with a rag, I still get drips. It hasn't bothered me enough yet to actually go thru the effort to install a drain plug, but some day it might bother me enough to overcome my laziness! |
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valorguy
starting to shine!
Member since August 2022
Posts: 28
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Post by valorguy on Apr 5, 2023 19:09:10 GMT -5
What saw blade do you guys use with this saw? I have a blue blazer on it that needs to be changed.
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Post by Rockoonz on Apr 6, 2023 0:30:50 GMT -5
What saw blade do you guys use with this saw? I have a blue blazer on it that needs to be changed. If you plan to use water I would use a MK Hotdog blade, made for use with water and the same as their more expensive agate eater. |
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valorguy
starting to shine!
Member since August 2022
Posts: 28
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Post by valorguy on May 12, 2023 16:34:33 GMT -5
Hey guys - I need some advice on this saw again please...
It appears that the power feed slips and stops at a couple of points along the screw... when rock density changes and it gets tougher to saw through....
With that said, I really think that screw is worn possibly in those places.
I'm not a mechanic - so will this be really hard to replace that screw? I see several places to take it out, but not sure if the whole power feed mechanism has to come out of the control box also?
Lastly - when I spoke to Rick at Raytech last month about some other issues with the saw - he was kind of offputting and never got back with me - I need to call him again, don;t I - He's the one who sells the parts and I can;t order them on-line?
Thanks for all the answers.
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paulr
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Member since April 2023
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Post by paulr on May 12, 2023 18:15:49 GMT -5
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herb
spending too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 475
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Post by herb on May 13, 2023 8:41:07 GMT -5
Hey guys - I need some advice on this saw again please... It appears that the power feed slips and stops at a couple of points along the screw... when rock density changes and it gets tougher to saw through.... With that said, I really think that screw is worn possibly in those places. I'm not a mechanic - so will this be really hard to replace that screw? I see several places to take it out, but not sure if the whole power feed mechanism has to come out of the control box also? I haven't tried replacing the screw, but when my saw had issues with slipping, it was because the threads on the brass clutch were worn. Might be worth checking that first. I ended up retapping the threads and haven't had any more slipping problems yet. It was fairly easy to do. You could also try looking at the screw where you think it is worn with a magnifying glass to see if the threads look worn. Also, there might be gunk in the threads that needs to be cleared out causing the slipping. |
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