rockbrain
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,172
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 14, 2023 9:25:41 GMT -5
Well unfortunately there's an issue with my new 16 Highland Park. I took Rockoonz advice and went through and made sure everything was tight. Overall that was good. I tightened a few things a slight bit but nothing alarming. I started with obsidian and had quite a few saw marks on the slab. I took this for being a new blade and needing broke in. Now that I've cut quite a few slabs of various materials there is obviously a problem. Somewhere about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through a cut (it depends on rock size) the blade noise gets noticeably louder for a few seconds and then very quiet for several seconds. Almost all of my slabs are coming out with some pretty nasty saw marks. The location seems to correspond with the sound change. I've also noticed that when I free the carriage and slide it back and forth I have a spot that has a bit more resistance and is slightly harder to push the carriage. I've held the slab back in position and the extra resistance of the carriage travel seems to correspond with where the saw marks are on the slab. It seems to me that I must have an issue with the rail or rails that the carriage travels on. I've reached out to HP. I didn't get a satisfactory response yet, but I didn't expect to hear anything on the weekend. I had someone send my a video on how to get rid of blade marks. It was for the Hightone saw, which is not what I have. They showed how to adjust the carriage after it breaks in for 6 months or so and typically loosens up. I can't detect and play in the carriage at all. I did have one other issue where a collar apparently moved on the crossfeed. I had play in the crossfeed adjustment but not on the vice. I was hoping this was the issue but I readjusted it and the saw mark problem continues. The thing is the collar moved but the allen bolt that holds it seemed tight. The other side is double nutted and that was tight. I'm wondering if whatever is off forced it out of position. Hopefully I get some kind of answers today. |
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 14, 2023 13:12:32 GMT -5
When you can please add some pics. The loud, then quiet can mean the threads on the feed screw are slipping back a thread, normal for too much resistance to cutting, usually means the blade needs sharpening or is cupped, when it always occurs at the same point it seems like something else.
Under your vice base there should be a setscrew that can be tightened against the crossfeed round bar to prevent any side to side motion there during cutting, a few of my saws have benefitted from tightening it for each slab and loosening to advance. There may be setscrews front and rear, but I think HP will only have front if that's still done.
At the end of your cut is there a gap between the blade and cut, or is the blade so tight against the rock that it scrapes loudly while pulling the carriage back and springs over a little? Either is an indicator of blade misalighnment or a dished or untensioned blade. Use a straightedge to check the blade for flatness.
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Post by chris1956 on Aug 14, 2023 17:54:07 GMT -5
Sorry to hear about issues with your saw. I am no saw expert so probably can't be of two much help. I did have a similar issue with Covington saws but seemed to get better once I adjusted the clutch. Did you hear anything from Highland Park? Have a photo of the marks on the slabs for the real experts out there?
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Post by roy on Aug 14, 2023 18:01:33 GMT -5
your carriage is not lined up right if you go to highland parks web page you will see a video on how to get it in line
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Post by roy on Aug 14, 2023 18:03:07 GMT -5
here is the youtube version
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rockbrain
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,172
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 15, 2023 18:16:58 GMT -5
Thanks for all the responses. I did get another reply from HP. They wanted a video. I set everything up with a chunk of obsidian. Didn't have the loud change that I've been experiencing. There are still a couple of blade marks right before the end of the cut but they are not any where near as prominent as they were. I cut several more pieces with video running and it wasn't making the noise anymore. I'd like to get it going right now as I just got off work, but think I will hold off as it's over 100 degrees right now. It's supposed to cool down a bit after tomorrow and I'll get it fired back up again.
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rockbrain
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,172
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 15, 2023 18:25:17 GMT -5
Thanks for all the responses. I did get another reply from HP. They wanted a video. I set everything up with a chunk of obsidian. Didn't have the loud change that I've been experiencing. There are still a couple of blade marks right before the end of the cut but they are not any where near as prominent as they were. I cut several more pieces with video running and it wasn't making the noise anymore. I'd like to get it going right now as I just got off work, but think I will hold off as it's over 100 degrees right now. It's supposed to cool down a bit after tomorrow and I'll get it fired back up again.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 16, 2023 5:36:49 GMT -5
Sounds like surging, or better stated inconsistent feed. I'd make sure the rails are smooth and unobstructed by a burr or something else causing resistance. Ditto I'd check to see the spring is correctly installed and not damaged on the feed dog (clutch). If that feed rod is not firmly engaged a slight resistance can cause a jumped thread as mentioned by Rockoonz. Saw marks can be produced by starting and stopping the blade in the middle of the cut. That's usually due to a slight blade wabble as it powers down and up in the process. I feel your frustration. Stay the course.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 16, 2023 11:35:31 GMT -5
In the high temps don't overheat your oil and blade. I had a 303 completely come untensioned from heat our first summer in AZ, fortunately it was fine after it cooled. If the tank feels HOT to the touch from hot oil, let it cool a lot between cuts. Like Peruano Tom said, they may have assembled the carriage with the roller bearings a little tight expecting them to wear in and loosen, so if it continues to clear up you may be fine. For sure, either way check alignment as shown in the video. If you don't want to hassle with the dial gauge there is another way to check with a piece of metal rod in the vice and feeler gauges, the way I was originally taught. Like I said earlier, the position of the blade relative to the rock at the end of the cut is a sure indicator of alignment issues or cupped blade, if the kerf at the edge of the blade either very slightly rubs on the cut surface or is less than the thickness of a sheet of paper away from the surface, that isn't the problem. If the distance from rock to blade is more at one end than the other, there is a wider separation, or it scrapes across so hard that it springs when it clears the rock, there is something that needs attention. |
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rockbrain
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,172
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 20, 2023 23:33:50 GMT -5
I got a call from China on my cell phone this evening. I was surprised and impressed that it was John Rowland from Highland Park. I guess one of the videos I sent got through (I was having issues with the large files) and they forwarded it to him. He called to offer some solutions for the issues I'm having. I'll be checking a few things out in the next couple of days as I have time. Sounds like he's interested in getting the issue solved. He assured me they'll send me any needed parts and was checking stock on stuff as we were speaking. He echoed what Rockoonz said that it sounded like feed threads were slipping. He's having me check the rails with a caliper. I've already felt all up and down them for burrs or irregularities. He said the square rails are pressed from round tubing and one in a while you could have a slightly fat spot. |
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 21, 2023 0:13:24 GMT -5
He never calls me...
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rockbrain
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,172
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Post by rockbrain on Aug 21, 2023 9:25:35 GMT -5
We actually had a nice long chat. I got some good stories about his rockhounding in the Central California area and how he ended up building saws.
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 21, 2023 12:16:55 GMT -5
I have a 10 inch Hightone and a 14 inch Hightone in the box. I bought the 14 because the 10 wasn't working.
The design of the Hightone is different than your saw. From the beginning the clutch release lever would stick so I couldn't move the carriage. Then the clutch spring broke and it took more than a month for the part to arrive from China. My mechanical skills are moderate and when I replaced the spring the tension was too loose and the carriage wouldn't advance.
I had years of aggravation with my 16 inch Covington combo; clutch adjustment and carriage drifting. A part off the Covington fixed my HP. Covington uses a threaded alligator clip to advance the carriage. The one that came with the saw wore out and I got a replacement that was heavier duty. I put the clip behind the HP clutch assembly and the saw works great. My hands get oily but...
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