choochoorocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
Rock hounding
Member since April 2020
Posts: 181
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Post by choochoorocks on Jan 21, 2024 18:36:38 GMT -5
Hi guys,
I have a 10" trim saw that is fairly new to me. I use a 0.032" blade in it. Recently I noticed that the blade has become dull. When that happens to my slab saw blade, I peen it. But I'm not sure if I can peen this trim saw blade as it is significantly thinner (seems to flex when I cut with it). Any advice?
Thanks!
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brybry
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Member since October 2021
Posts: 1,221
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Post by brybry on Jan 21, 2024 18:54:45 GMT -5
Peening isn't swing hard. Just hard enough to mushroom/flattening the edge. I do it all the time. The blade may have flex but you'd have to beat it pretty good to seriously deform it. Thing strong taps and you'll be ok.
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Post by chris1956 on Jan 21, 2024 19:08:06 GMT -5
When you say "peen" are you using a hammer? I sharpen my 10 inch blade with the edge of a bastard file. On a thinner blade you might want to start lightly and check it with a magnifying glass to see how much change there is. Here is a link to the original video that I found a whie ago.
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choochoorocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
Rock hounding
Member since April 2020
Posts: 181
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Post by choochoorocks on Jan 21, 2024 22:41:24 GMT -5
Peening isn't swing hard. Just hard enough to mushroom/flattening the edge. I do it all the time. The blade may have flex but you'd have to beat it pretty good to seriously deform it. Thing strong taps and you'll be ok. Sounds good, I'll give it a try! |
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choochoorocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
Rock hounding
Member since April 2020
Posts: 181
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Post by choochoorocks on Jan 21, 2024 22:45:19 GMT -5
When you say "peen" are you using a hammer? I sharpen my 10 inch blade with the edge of a bastard file. On a thinner blade you might want to start lightly and check it with a magnifying glass to see how much change there is. Here is a link to the original video that I found a whie ago. I use a bastard file too. I also learned about it from a (different) YouTube video. Makes sense to inspect with a magnifying glass! |
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 22, 2024 0:49:10 GMT -5
The dogs were cute, I'll say that.
There is a huge misconception about what is really binding your cut and what swaging does to remedy it. The file will accomplish what you need to do with a hammer, with the added benefit, to the blade manufacturer anyway, of breaking up the sintered surface of the blade so that the first cuts after the "sharpening" remove a lot more of the blade than it would if you used a hammer, and a shorter time till you need to do it again. Also a hammer is made specifically to swing accurately, which is important.
A new blade is significantly thicker at the edge than anywhere else. As it's used the edge of the blade goes from flat to rounded, the sides of the blade begin to do some of the cutting, and the edge becomes wedge shaped. The wedge predictably will bind in the cut. Making the edge flat again so it is the widest point and does all the cutting is how it is fixed, and the flatter the better.
The manufacturer also wants to sell you more arbor bearings, take the blade OFF the saw to swage it.
I have a spot at the end of a workbench I lay the blade flat on, and holes for pins to prevent the blade from sliding back. Of course mark the starting point and tap it at exactly 90 degrees.
"Glazing" is not really a thing at all, but with the old style continuous rim style crimped blades the steel could become formed over the slots filled with diamond either by pushing too hard when hand cutting, running it with no oil or water instead of oil with blades over 8".
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Post by chris1956 on Jan 22, 2024 9:20:43 GMT -5
The dogs were cute, I'll say that. There is a huge misconception about what is really binding your cut and what swaging does to remedy it. The file will accomplish what you need to do with a hammer, with the added benefit, to the blade manufacturer anyway, of breaking up the sintered surface of the blade so that the first cuts after the "sharpening" remove a lot more of the blade than it would if you used a hammer, and a shorter time till you need to do it again. Also a hammer is made specifically to swing accurately, which is important. A new blade is significantly thicker at the edge than anywhere else. As it's used the edge of the blade goes from flat to rounded, the sides of the blade begin to do some of the cutting, and the edge becomes wedge shaped. The wedge predictably will bind in the cut. Making the edge flat again so it is the widest point and does all the cutting is how it is fixed, and the flatter the better. The manufacturer also wants to sell you more arbor bearings, take the blade OFF the saw to swage it. I have a spot at the end of a workbench I lay the blade flat on, and holes for pins to prevent the blade from sliding back. Of course mark the starting point and tap it at exactly 90 degrees. "Glazing" is not really a thing at all, but with the old style continuous rim style crimped blades the steel could become formed over the slots filled with diamond either by pushing too hard when hand cutting, running it with no oil or water instead of oil with blades over 8". I should have mentioned about taking the blade off the saw. I put mine on a steel shaft in a vice but I will have to try your suggestion about laying flat on the table. And will try the hammer too to see how that works. When I have looked at my blades with a magnifying glass, it looks more like the diamonds have been covered over with steel rather than the rounding you mentioned. But I will check more closely next time. |
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RWA3006
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Member since March 2009
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Post by RWA3006 on Jan 22, 2024 22:51:59 GMT -5
I've peened blades for years with the edge of a bastard file but don't strike a small blade quite as hard as shown in the video. It has worked just fine for me.
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roQhound
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2023
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Post by roQhound on Jan 24, 2024 17:21:24 GMT -5
I've also been able to peen my Hi-Tec thin sintered blades with a file. I lightly strike in the same spot as I use one hand to rotate the blade. It's worked surprisingly well on blades I thought were done.
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Maybe you can post some pictures here