rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Feb 13, 2024 16:28:25 GMT -5
Hey all, I ended up getting my first saw earlier today. From using the google image search, I think it’s a Highland Park saw. A photo album should be attached with a couple photos since I never have success uploading photos here. Right now it has a blade on it that the owner said came from the hardware store. He was thinking the saw was an 8” model though it looks like it could maybe take a bigger blade. Maybe not. Any tips or advice would be appreciated on it. I won’t be doing any slabs or fancy pretty cutting, just trying to cut 1” cubes. imgur.com/a/vivmD7u
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Post by Peruano on Feb 14, 2024 7:19:23 GMT -5
Yes, it looks like an HP. My advice would be to NOT cut by hand with that blade. Those slots could rip human tissue. They are usually only on big blades that use vices. Tile folks can get by probably because they don't cut as closely as most lapidarys. The underside of the saw table may have a model number indicating saw size. Enjoy, but I would buy anew blade.
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Post by Starguy on Feb 14, 2024 16:28:14 GMT -5
Nice saw. I would echo what Tom Peruano says. It does look like it will take a bigger blade than what’s there. It also looks like it could be set up with a clamp and weight feed.
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rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Feb 14, 2024 16:50:24 GMT -5
Thanks!
As for the blade, I have worn out I believe 3 of those same blades using tile saws to cut rocks. I sure know the risk when it comes to hands. My joke when using dangerous tools is “any man who dies with all 10 fingers lived the life of a coward”. Not true of course, but a good saw joke.
Anyways I was looking at proper blades for it. There’s a lot of options but is it wrong to say that everything I see is a bit fancier than what I need? I’ve been buying $10 blades and am now in the world of $50 blades. So I’m a little hesitant there.
I’m also looking for something that’ll cut relatively quickly. It seems that’s kinda a taboo thing to look for in a blade. My cuts don’t need to be pretty. I just need to make cubes.
As a side note I did cut with this saw this morning. I really was able to get through my remaining material pretty quickly. Of course it turns out most of what I have is no good for marble making, but it was still an excellent test. Cutting speed was much faster than the dry table saw I was using, or the tile saw we had at work. RPMs are much power on this saw which also surprised me speed-wise. Must be the blade on it compared to what I was using.
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Post by Starguy on Feb 14, 2024 18:11:10 GMT -5
rolleyholeman1. Any quality sintered blade will be a good bet. I get mine from CabKing. They are durable but don’t have the thinnest kerf. I’m not easy on saw blades but I’ve gotten good service life with reasonably fast cutting speeds.
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rockbrain
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,172
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Post by rockbrain on Feb 14, 2024 19:09:17 GMT -5
Congrats on the new saw!
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Post by Peruano on Feb 14, 2024 21:04:20 GMT -5
Cutting corners off of cubes would best be accomplished with a less than thin blade ( to avoid flexing the blade when addressing a less than square face). Buy a moderate or economy blade, not a super thin one. Most blades will cut fast but they will last longest if you goslow and easy instead of pushing hard.
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Post by Rockoonz on Feb 15, 2024 1:08:47 GMT -5
rolleyholeman1 you're welcome Never seen a HP tub casting with the base as part of it, but maybe it is. Either way it's defintely usable.
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rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Feb 15, 2024 1:29:29 GMT -5
rolleyholeman1 you're welcome Never seen a HP tub casting with the base as part of it, but maybe it is. Either way it's defintely usable. I have been trying to find more info on this saw and have seen only one other online that I can say with certainty is the same as my saw, or at least by looks. Using the google reverse image lookup there was a saw like this for sale on craigslist. They have it advertised as a 10” saw and it was in Colorado. The listing itself is long gone, being deleted by the poster. So I just have a couple pictures to look at. The downside to the possible rarity is it probably won’t be possible to find the auto-feed mechanism. I did see an old snippet of a catalogue where it shows the parts being sold individually. Running the part numbers came up with nothing besides offerings to buy new saws and people online saying the new saws are junk. When messing around online I saw some old catalogues that I think had this saw labeled as either model e2 or I think hp12. Something like that. Now that I think about it, there was a lapidary shop in West Virginia selling the same saw but with limited details. It looks like highland park used paper labels/ stickers that are usually gone. Regardless it’s exactly what I was looking for in a saw. Cheap. Besides cheap it’s also basic. Another downside is I can’t find a manual to see how to change the blade. It looks like I have to remove the tray from the tub which doesn’t seem fun. The mating surface is filled with a whole tube of blue RTV so all that will probably have to be scraped off and redone like a valve cover gasket.
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rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Feb 15, 2024 1:35:50 GMT -5
rolleyholeman1. Any quality sintered blade will be a good bet. I get mine from CabKing. They are durable but don’t have the thinnest kerf. I’m not easy on saw blades but I’ve gotten good service life with reasonably fast cutting speeds. I’ll keep that in mind. The few guys I know with saws have warned me off from thin blades and even true lapidary blades. One guy I know bought a high end blade of sorts and instantly bent it. Others have done similar. Kerf size is something I’m paying more attention to since some pieces are small. Even today I wanted to cut the center of a piece to make two cubes, but the Kerf was just big enough to make this impossible if I wanted two cubes. Happens more than you’d think.
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Post by liveoak on Feb 15, 2024 7:09:47 GMT -5
Congrats on the saw
Patty
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Post by Rockoonz on Feb 15, 2024 11:21:10 GMT -5
When you have it open give us a peek, might be more to identify. OK, nevermind, sent a pic to sphereguy Matt, the curator of the FranTom museum. He says HP TS6, made in the 70's after Contempo bought the company and before it all folded and Diamond Pacific bought it all. If you were to call DP on the right day and Bill Ritter felt like looking, there may even be parts in the containers out back at their headquarters in Barstow. If you were to start spraying a good penetrating oil onto the sides of the blade ASAP so it gets on the no doubt rusted threads you might have an easier time changing blades. As far as a clamping vice, I'll look for pics of the pretty basic Beacon Star setup, pretty easy to duplicate.
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Post by Rockoonz on Feb 15, 2024 11:23:03 GMT -5
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Post by Rockoonz on Feb 15, 2024 11:25:24 GMT -5
Just have to bend a zee in the piece of sheet for the base with the vice to clear the side rail.
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rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Feb 15, 2024 18:58:39 GMT -5
When you have it open give us a peek, might be more to identify. OK, nevermind, sent a pic to sphereguy Matt, the curator of the FranTom museum. He says HP TS6, made in the 70's after Contempo bought the company and before it all folded and Diamond Pacific bought it all. If you were to call DP on the right day and Bill Ritter felt like looking, there may even be parts in the containers out back at their headquarters in Barstow. If you were to start spraying a good penetrating oil onto the sides of the blade ASAP so it gets on the no doubt rusted threads you might have an easier time changing blades. As far as a clamping vice, I'll look for pics of the pretty basic Beacon Star setup, pretty easy to duplicate. I looked into that model and I'm not sure I have the same saw. They are very close, but mine is weird in how the base also works as the motor mount. With the 6TS it looks like a nice little square footprint, but with my saw it is the same, but the base is a large rectangle due to the built-in mounting area for the motor. Hopefully that makes sense. Here is a catalog that I think shows this saw. tucsonlapidary.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/2017-Highland-Park477.jpgOne thing I just realized is the catalog gives the dimensions of the tray, so I'm going to measure mine tomorrow to see if that helps narrow it down for sure. I might try to contact DP and see if they have anything. I'm still thinking about if I want to really bother since the saw does great for what I need. At the same time though, if I ever were to sell the saw, the value would probably be wrecked without the auto-feed.
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Post by Rockoonz on Feb 16, 2024 0:30:06 GMT -5
You are right about that E2 looking correct, once you have the top off measure from center of blade to bottom and back of the tank, whichever is smaller should be a bit more than half of whatever the biggest blade is that fits it.
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rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Feb 17, 2024 1:47:43 GMT -5
You are right about that E2 looking correct, once you have the top off measure from center of blade to bottom and back of the tank, whichever is smaller should be a bit more than half of whatever the biggest blade is that fits it. I got too into cutting rocks today to take the saw apart, but I did do some measuring with the saw all together. With a 7” blade (according to the previous owner that’s what he installed), I have 1.5” gaps on both sides roughly. Of course I’d measure better when the time comes for another blade. Seems I’m all out of rocks to cut though. Or all out of anything worth cutting. Right now the saw is leaking from the screws that hold the tray on, and the “plug” for draining could be better. So the saw is a nasty mess. Since there’s nothing else to cut I might just take it apart and clean it up for storage. I wish I could get images to upload. I did a ton of cutting again today and have maybe 15lbs alone in scraps. I made some “slabs” as well but without a flat lap I have used sandpaper and then spray clear coat to make them look decent. According to threads online this is a sin against lapidary. In the end though they just need to be good enough for showing people what material is good and bad for marble making.
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rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Feb 17, 2024 13:11:16 GMT -5
Found someone who has a video on the same saw : Highland Park E2I did spend some time today looking for the guide and vice. No luck there. It's looking more and more like I will have to find a parts saw if I ever want these parts, though I'm not worried. In the video his saw does leak a good bit, which is from the shaft seal for the arbor. I'm not sure what the technical term is, but I have personally seen a saw do this during a marble making demonstration. The owner of the saw didn't want to run it much because he would have to keep filling it up, plus would have a mes. Is this common and are the parts hard to find?
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rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Feb 19, 2024 20:28:30 GMT -5
I have started looking into blades a bit more, though it seems most (if not all) recommended blades from older threads are out of stock, especially MK blades. I did look at UKAM blades a little bit, and then got distracted looking on amazon.
The main issue I have is I don't know about continuous edge blades. I used one for a while and wore it out, and really enjoyed making the switch to the segmented blades due to speed. I don't need hardcore smoothness since I'm just making cubes.
One continuous edge blade that caught my eye was the BOSCH 10" blade on Amazon. Some reviews mention using it for lapidary and that it's a bit thicker, both good for me.
Main thing is I want a good quick cut for cheap.
However I also drive a 35 year old car, and am very aware of "buy cheap buy twice". So now I only buy Bosch. If they make the part I need, they're who I buy from. Maybe this applies to saws.
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rolleyholeman1
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2023
Posts: 56
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Post by rolleyholeman1 on Mar 20, 2024 23:47:04 GMT -5
As an update to this, I got a new blade. My old blade which the label is not readable (so I don’t know what it is) was closer to its end than I knew. When cutting a piece of Jasper it plain stopped cutting suddenly. It got to bare metal.
I went for a cheaper dewalt 10” blade from eBay. The locals here swear by the dewalt 7” blade from the local hardware store. Now one thing to keep in mind is the area is very rural. You have your classic small town hardware store that sells things like hardware but also firearms if you all know the vibe. They’ll have what you need for the job, but not the selection. If you want selection, drive an hour.
Anyways so far the blade does decent. Slow cutting which is why I’m not the biggest fan compared to a blade with big segments. But it cuts smooth.
It was a pain to swap the blades due to years of neglect but after battling with a blow torch and liquid wrench I got the done.
The original plan was to go with the mk301 or mk303, but I couldn’t find either in stock in 10”. Biggest I could find was I think a mk301 in 8”
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