fossilbrain
spending too much on rocks
Cookie Monster agate
Member since October 2007
Posts: 360
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Post by fossilbrain on Mar 6, 2024 18:25:39 GMT -5
   Hello! It's inspiring to be back after not posting much in a long while. Wanting to get back into it.... I got a great deal on a Raytech diamond saw (trim saw mainly for cutting cabs slabs to outline shape). I went to change the blade (no manual on this kind) and am a little stumped. The only thing I can guess is I'm supposed to carefully develop a feel and flex the blade out of shape. Possibly how the prev. owner bent it, lol. Nothing else makes sense (?). The gap is so narrow (which is nice, otherwise) you can't move the blade enough get the saw hole anywhere near the end of the arbor for removal. The whole bearing assembly and arbor comes up, bolted under the sawing tray. You can unbolt the assembly, from the top (the 4 black hex-hole machine screws) but not only would that seem ridiculous for blade change (there are inconvenient square nuts that start freewheeling, it would be a hassle) but, when loosened, it doesn't even move, like it's never been removed since manufacture. I tried tapping the arbor to see if the bearing would come out of the assy. with the arbor, but it doesn't move easily. Someday I'll wonder how to change the bearing. To change the blade: Do I just flex the blade enough to get the hole off the threads? Thanks, my creative and inspiring friends. FossilBrain (Jeff in FL) |
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Post by Rockoonz on Mar 6, 2024 18:59:44 GMT -5
Yep, you will have to unbolt the bearing housing to change blades.
I've cussed at that design too.
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agatewhisperer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since May 2020
Posts: 836
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Post by agatewhisperer on Mar 6, 2024 22:15:19 GMT -5
This is my favorite trim saw.
But on mine, there's enough room for the blade to come off without bending it and without taking off the bearings. Not sure if the shaft was modified at some point or what but it may be a little shorter than yours so it has room for the blade to slide off.
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fossilbrain
spending too much on rocks
Cookie Monster agate
Member since October 2007
Posts: 360
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Post by fossilbrain on Mar 8, 2024 0:13:16 GMT -5
Shoot well thanks... and I do need to change it and decide on a thicker blade style I think. While I do cabs for fun sometimes:  ...the thing I need this for is to cut precision rectangles of shell to inlay in an exact width of wooden channel. So I need it to cut *straight*. The cuts it makes look straight to the eye, but they meander randomly wayyy too much for shell inlay. The blade is drifting (not always the same direction) and cutting more of less here and there, no matter how slowly I cut .090" shell, with coolant water. I'm hoping a thicker blade will help but I don't know if I should go notched or sintered. Definitely thicker, I'd say. Thanks again. Re: fun cabs, I love a good piece of dino marrow .jpg) |
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NDK
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Mar 8, 2024 16:17:24 GMT -5
fossilbrain something to think about with a thicker blade is more material loss with each cut. Sounds like you've got a steady hand and the cuts are close to flat. Maybe use a high grit wet/dry sandpaper laying on a flat surface and give the pieces a few swipes to flatten it.
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agatewhisperer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since May 2020
Posts: 836
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Post by agatewhisperer on Mar 20, 2024 22:28:15 GMT -5
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