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Post by rocklicker on Feb 28, 2006 23:59:48 GMT -5
Dies anyone knows what causes saw blades to dish? I have a ten inch saw that seems to cut at a alight angle outwards. The blade does alright as long as the material isn't too thick, but sometimes the saw slows down. Is there a cure for this?
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Duckbean
fully equipped rock polisher
Looking for rocks in all the wrong places
Member since February 2005
Posts: 1,072
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Post by Duckbean on Mar 1, 2006 1:10:39 GMT -5
I was dishing out my blades right and left and some one told me to flip the blade over every so often and to take my time at cutting and not to force it. Which is hard for me to do, But I'm trying! The blades seems to be lasting a little longer now I think.
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Post by stoner on Mar 1, 2006 1:31:06 GMT -5
Hey Steve, is your saw set up with and auto feed? Make sure the rails that the vice ride on are parallel to the blade. Clamp a marking pen in the vice so it just touches the blade at the beginning of the cut, then move the vice towards the rear of the blade and make sure the mark is consistant across the whole blade. If it doesn't, you have to adjust the arbor or the rails, or both.
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Post by texasrockhound on Mar 1, 2006 9:27:00 GMT -5
I dished my blade as well....but it's from shaping free forms and it's only a 7" blade. So ....this weekend I'll pick up the 'Hot Dog' blade for my Work Force and use it to cut slabs only...and use the dished blade for free form shaping....
Duckbean - Aren't the saw blades made to turn in one direction? The ones I've purchased have direction indicator arrows...If you fliped the blade wouldn't it be turning the wrong way?...You're able to flip the blade w/out problems?
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Duckbean
fully equipped rock polisher
Looking for rocks in all the wrong places
Member since February 2005
Posts: 1,072
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Post by Duckbean on Mar 1, 2006 13:51:54 GMT -5
I guess it depends on the type of blade you use!The notched rim, and the continuous rim blades that I buy can be reversed and cut the same both ways, I'm still fairly new and only used the Lortone blade that came with the saw and the two types that I get off Ebay. If the blade has arrows indecating direction of rotation then that's the only way I would want to use it! The arrows were put there for a reason, and safety should always come First!
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Post by texasrockhound on Mar 1, 2006 14:05:08 GMT -5
DB - Agreed. Safety first! Yea...i figured you were using a different type of blade....I wonder what Rocklicker is using? Anywho....doesn't hurt to be careful and get the info as accurate as possible...Thanks for the reply... Dan  |
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Post by rocklicker on Mar 4, 2006 0:54:54 GMT -5
I'm using a notched rim blade, and unfortunatly if there was ever a directional arrow, it has long since worn off from. As per Stoner's advise, I stuck a marker in the vice and found my blade to be slightly unparallel. It does have an autofeed which I will try adjusting this weekend. That or the blade. Thanks for the advise all.
Steve
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Post by stoner on Mar 4, 2006 1:09:14 GMT -5
I bet that takes care of your problem Steve.
Good luck,
Ed
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bob7197
off to a rocking start
Member since March 2006
Posts: 5
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Post by bob7197 on Mar 27, 2006 16:06:39 GMT -5
Well look at it this way. A lot of blades are thin steel so any force which deforms the edge as it approaches the rock will distort the blade. The technique of "spinning" metal sheet to form a three-dimensional object is just what happens when you start a cut with the surface at an angle. WHAT TO DO: First use a continuous, heavier blade. The ones that come with a new saw are el-cheapos. When the stone you are to cut is not square to the blade, let it feed to contact, stop the feed to allow the blade to cut to the side until you are sure you have cut a "bench". Advance in pulses then after maybe 6 pulses, go for it. As others have said, reverse the blade from time to time and keep the blade dressed. Using this technique I have been able to cut what seems like a 100 miles with each. Hard stuff too.
Bob7197
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