lastl98
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2007
Posts: 410
|
Post by lastl98 on Mar 19, 2007 17:48:26 GMT -5
I've got a 6" rock saw & quickly found out that it's really just a trim saw. I had huge ideas/dreams of cutting slabs but the lil guy just wont do it even with the exact sizes I would need to draw through it. It struggles too much. I started with just a cheap $14 blade off of ebay & now I can see why they are so inexpensive. They are slow to cut & dull very quickly. Just what size set~up do you need to cut decent slabs? I'm not talking huge but something fairly big, much bigger than just the trimmings I'm able to do now. Will a much more expensive blade make "all of the difference in the world"? That is, will I be able to cut 4" to 5" mini slabs then? My biggest problem is with the blade binding half way through the rock. Any & all advice as usual is greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone. Last  |
|
stefan
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
|
Post by stefan on Mar 20, 2007 11:53:00 GMT -5
To cut "mini" slabs (4 to 5 inch) you need a 12 to 16 inch slab saw!!!! a six inch saw will bottom out on rock any larger than say 2 inches- if you learn to "roll the rock" you can double that (4 inches or so) the general rule is a depth cut of 1/3 the blade diameter (give or take depending on design)
For a binding blade you need to pay attention to several factors
Is the rock being twisted in some way
Are you feeding the rock to fast
Is the blade warped or dished
As for a more expensive blade making all the difference in the world- well NO
Diamond blades have many different designs and features- each for a specific use
BUT all blades share on thing in common--- DIAMOND
Diamond works by simply being harder than the material it is cutting- and in reality Diamonds do not "CUT" they GRIND- What you are doing is grinding a groove into the rock-
One thing I learned is that simply slowing down is often the solution to ANY cutting woes- give the diamonds time to get their "GROVE THING" going (sorry I could not resist)
By putting on a more expensive lade- and expecting a miricale- well all your gonna do is ruin a more expensive blade!!!!
SImply Stated- a 6 inch saw is gonna have a hell of a time cutting 5 inch slabs- 4 inches- maybe- 5 inches is just to thick (heck I can just barely manage 5 inchs on my 7 inch tile saw).
I know this is not the answer you wanted to hear- but rather the truth than cooking a 45 to 50 dollar blade
|
|
lastl98
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2007
Posts: 410
|
Post by lastl98 on Mar 20, 2007 12:29:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply stefan. You've saved me some big bucks! Owe ya one! I can see being so new to all of this that I was doing a little wishful thinking that there would be a better/faster way to do this. Once again the rock rules the day. lol  I can't afford anything bigger right now, infact, the better blade was even pushing things. I will take the "zen" approach & try to realize that this little grasshopper is still learning. Last |
|
|
|
Post by Tweetiepy on Mar 20, 2007 13:23:38 GMT -5
Last another problem may be actually finding a 6" blade as they are mostly lapidary grade blades - which is why the 7" Workforce tile saw has a much better chance of finding a blade for it as it was designed for construction work and the blades are readily available
As Stefan mentioned, go slow and use lots of water.
|
|
adrian65
Cave Dweller
Arch to golden memories and to great friends.
Member since February 2007
Posts: 10,792
|
Post by adrian65 on Mar 20, 2007 14:09:46 GMT -5
Hi, Last. In my opinion, it's very important to add plenty of cooling water while cutting. Also, don't speed too much the cut. If you cut a translucent agate, you can see through it some sparks during the cutting. If you increase the water flow and decrease the pressure on the stone you cut, you'll notice that the sparks diminish. I have read that it's ideal to have no sparks at all. I didn't manage, but I reduced them a lot by adding water. From what I have heared, if the blade is overheated, the alloy which contains the diamond dust can melt and cover the diamonds, so the blade will not cut properly any more. So, better spend on water than on new blades . I cut an about 3 inch agate or petrified wood in some 15 minutes with 6...8 liters of water (sorry, I have no idea about gallons). I've noticed it's also important the contact point between the water flow and the blade. It's good to be as close as possible to the point where the blade "disappears" into the stone. Eitherway, a lot of water is thrown away. I have a 12 inch (300 mm) blade and I have cut slabs with about 90 mm height. The maximum cutting depth for my blade is 100 mm (that's 4 inches, is it?). Keep in mind that the maximum dimension of the slab can be bigger, if you put the rock in the proper position (with the smallest dimension on the vertical and with the biggest dimension parallel to the table). Begin with small slabs, as they are easier to polish. I am a relative beginner too, so if you have (now or in the future) some advices in cutting and mostly in polishing slabs, they are welcome. Adrian |
|
lastl98
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2007
Posts: 410
|
Post by lastl98 on Mar 20, 2007 14:30:48 GMT -5
Excellent advice on the water as I do think I wasn't keeping the reservoir full enough as noticed on a few occasions when I stopped the saw. Also I think I need to adjust the tension on my belt as it seems to want to slip (I noticed this at the end but it may be due to it getting wet?). Thank you all so much. I have a Lortone "15 flat lap & had/have so many plans for it but I've first got to get some decent slabs! Thanks again all you've been a tremendous help & an even better source of encouragement! Last |
|
stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
|
Post by stefan on Mar 28, 2007 10:42:35 GMT -5
I like it- Become one with the SAW!!! Also a little belt dressing (Auto parts store) can often "cure" a lose belt (or a wet one for that matter!)
|
|
|
|
Post by deb193 on Mar 28, 2007 12:20:13 GMT -5
There are more sources for lapidary blades in the states than in Canada - but it is mail order (Internet) not at the local hardware store. I would try Lopacki.com's 6" X 5/8" X .032" course cut blade for $20. I think anything thinner than .032 and you will get that binding. The thinner blades tend to bend a little when cutting thicker stuff and the thicker the rock the more binding problem there is 1/2 way through.
I find that running at 1750 RPM the cut is a little slower than the tile saws that have a higher RPM. A tile saw with a good blade does offer some small slabbing. IF the blade is thick and the rock not too irregular, you can roll it like Stephan said. I have not really gotten rolling to work on 6" blade on my Rock rascal - or maybe I just turn around too readily and use the WorkForce. If you had a 5/6 inch thick slab of something fairly easy to cut, say Dalmation Jasper, you should be able to make 3 inch strips with your 6" saw. If you can't, the blade is likely bent or dished.
What is the thickness of your present blade?
What is the purpose of the slabs? If you want to make display slabs and really do want to get 4+ inches across, then yes a big slab saw will be needed. But, if you want slabs to cut up on the trim saw, then a 10" trim/slab saw is just fine. If you consider the size of most cabs, they can easily be cut from the 2.5 to 3.25 inch wide slabs that can be made on a 10" saw. That is why the 10" saw is the basic lapidarist's tool. I mean, why get an expensive machine to cut 4-5 inch wide slabs when you will just cut up the slabs.
You can find a used 10" saw-only at a club or on ebay in the $250-$350 range. Ideally you want a decent vise w/ a cross-feed capability and a power feed. This adds about $100, but good buys are out there. I got a 10" Beacon Star with vise and power feed and motor for under $300 (shipped) just a few years back.
If you just want to make somewhat even slices of rock and would be happy with 1.5 to 2" wide maximum, get a tile saw and a good blade. If you want slightly bigger and even-thickness slabs, save up for a used 10"
|
|
lastl98
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2007
Posts: 410
|
Post by lastl98 on Mar 28, 2007 12:40:11 GMT -5
Wow! Thank you for the very informative post deb193 - Daniel. I've got a few 6" blades but they came with the saw. I did get a meteor cutting blade or at least this is how it was advertised.  That one is my thinest but I don't know the gauge of any of them. I did see that one of my blades is definitely "cupped/warped" and soon after seeing this I managed to really bind a piece & definitely bent the blade then. lol I realize now that I have definitely been rushing my cuts way too much & not using enough coolant. I'm only using water for the coolant & think I heard some use mineral oil? I really don't want to put too much more money out for supplies just yet & was hoping that the mineral oil would work? Thanks again! Last |
|
|
|
Post by deb193 on Apr 1, 2007 18:12:13 GMT -5
Water is always used on6" and mostly on 10". Generally oil is for bigger format.
|
|
... to the New Guys from The ChatBox V.2 Crew