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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,509
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Post by Sabre52 on Aug 8, 2007 19:18:44 GMT -5
Man, been there and done that more than once. Sometimes a rock fractures and that's it for a blade too. If it was an expensive blade (mine are 20"ers and cost like #350) and not a continuous rim model, they can be repaired like new. Notched rims can be repaired but not the continuous or segmented continuous. Barranca Industries in Rock and Gem magazine does a great job for about $57 last time I had one done. Also Frank, if your vice is like mine ( jaws are driven by a big single screw in the middle) the jaws can close at an angle which can sometimes let the rock work loose so I always put a wooden block a tiny bit smaller than the stone in the back of the vice jaws to prevent this sort of movement and insure the jaws close evenly on the workpiece..Mel
Oops, reading back I see your vice must have dual screws. Block still may help though and I also use extra soft wood wedges when necessary and knock irregularities off the stone before I vice it.
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Post by rocklicker on Aug 10, 2007 17:41:13 GMT -5
Augh! How horrible. I hope the rock did OK. Luckily, I've never had that happen to me and I hope it never does. Mel, the HP saw I use has the single screw jaw and it can close at an angle, but just a small one. It seems to be pretty secure. Garock, if you are really worried about getting your rock secure you can always use the ol rocks in plaster of paris in a milk carton trick. Steve
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Post by catmandewe on Aug 10, 2007 18:11:58 GMT -5
Just a note to let you all know that Barranca Industries no longer repairs saw blades, they called me last week and told me they had done their last firing, and would not be repairing blades any longer.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,509
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Post by Sabre52 on Aug 10, 2007 21:36:32 GMT -5
Ouch! Bummer on the blade repair. Guess I shoulda sent off my dished blade for repair before they quit. Darn! Have never heard of anyone else who does it either. I have switched over to MK303 continuous rims though and like them way better even if they can't be repaired.
Steve: Use the wooden block at the back of the vice . My saw is an HP too and I've had the vice pop out of the grooves a time or two before I was advised by a buddy who was more knowledgable to use the blocks . Haven't had that problem since...Mel
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blarneystone
spending too much on rocks
Rocks in my head
Member since March 2010
Posts: 307
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Post by blarneystone on Aug 11, 2007 9:54:55 GMT -5
Ugh... I feel your pain Frank. Thanks for posting your experience. Maybe someone else can avoid the same heartache because you shared it with us. Dan
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 23, 2007 19:49:40 GMT -5
As a Barranca dealer it was a sad day when they told me they would no longer retemper repair blades as costs were too high and not feasible to charge a profitable amount. The last 18" blade I sent in for a customer was $40 plus $15 shipping. Any blades sent in for repairs will be inspected to determine if they can be repaired using the machines (look like tire balancers) the new blades go through after firing and the old tech with the ball peen hammer (who was there when it was Star Diamond). If they say they can't repair it the customer can pay shipping to get the blade back or they toss it. They still manufacture new blades under the Barranca and MK names and supply blades to every US saw manufacturer I know of. On my HP saw, I use the blocks and soft pine between the old hardwood jaws and the rock. When I clamp the rock down I grab the rock with both hands and pull as hard as I can in every direction. I don't start until it won't budge.
John at JS Gems
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stonesnbones
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2007
Posts: 255
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Post by stonesnbones on Sept 6, 2007 15:40:11 GMT -5
My first post here.I hope to try and be of some help.Garock,if you want to try and salvage the blade here is what you do.you will need a crack hammer(4lb works best) and a piece of a 2x4.Lay the blade on a hard flat surface.Hard flat surface means a cement floor or such.A wood surface is no good.Hold the 2x4 in the center of the blade where the warp area is and start taking your frustrations out on the blade with the hammer on the 2x4.Work towards the edge from the centre.It can take a little time and sweat but bent blades can be repaired this way.Just be sure to work from the center out.I have salvaged a few blades like this because I did the same thing you did.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2007 20:15:43 GMT -5
Hey Brad!
Nice to see you over here. Welcome to RTH.
Shannon
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garock
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since February 2006
Posts: 1,168
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Post by garock on Sept 15, 2007 6:52:51 GMT -5
Stonesnbones: I took my blade to work. I work as a technicain and we have a nice flat metal table. I took a piece of plastic block about the size of a 2 x 4 and worked on the blade. It seems to have done a great job. I will be trying the blade out later today. Thanks Very Much for the info. Still Digging in the Dirt, GaRock (Frank)
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Post by Bikerrandy on Sept 16, 2007 23:23:57 GMT -5
I've had to repair my blade three times this year. Fortunately for me, I learned to work metal from restoring cars (the right way) lol
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
Posts: 1,507
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Post by rallyrocks on Sept 22, 2007 18:31:56 GMT -5
I've had to repair my blade three times this year. Fortunately for me, I learned to work metal from restoring cars (the right way) lol What you can fix blades with bondo and fiberglass? Oh you said the right way- so... with lead?
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