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Fuel
Nov 7, 2007 22:31:41 GMT -5
Post by docone31 on Nov 7, 2007 22:31:41 GMT -5
It seems like fuel is going upwards, and it will indeed stay that way.
I drive a 1987 Suburban with a 454 I modified to stroked 503/650hp. I am currently getting 25mpg around town with an empty vehicle weight of 7300lbs.
Aside from a complete engine redo, hypereutictic pistons, custom Crane cam, flowed heads, port matched intake, and exhaust, and a regear of the rear end. I add acetone to my fuel.
I use 3ozs of acetone to 10 gallons of fuel. It makes a noticeable difference.
With the entry of alcohol into the fuel, the cold alcohol impedes ignition. In other words, you lose power unless the compression is increased. Alcohol is a cold fuel. It needs compression. Acetone does not burn well above a certain percentage. .20% per gallon. Within the .20% range, it wakes up the fuel.
A lot of us are going to look into making changes in their vehicles. Try the acetone first.
I am not sure how it works with diesel, however I have read using the same ratio helps.
My baby, is going to stay in our stable for a while. It is impressive when we fill'er up. She has a 52 gallon tank! We fill up twice a month.
Anyone want to do some research and really make this a DIY thread on the rock getters?
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Fuel
Nov 8, 2007 9:28:18 GMT -5
Post by BAZ on Nov 8, 2007 9:28:18 GMT -5
I have a '72 Chevy with a 350, the acetone thing interests me but as far as vehciles go I am a dum dum. How does one increase compression? If it is as easy as changing oil/tires/plugs/filters/belts I am there. I have used STP octane booster, is that just Acetone?
(which I can get a helluva lot cheaper)
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Fuel
Nov 8, 2007 11:23:10 GMT -5
Post by docone31 on Nov 8, 2007 11:23:10 GMT -5
Raising compression recquires removing the heads, broaching them the recquired thickness. An octane booster is a waste of money. It originally was used to compensate for low octane fuels back when muscle cars still had compression.
Acetone modifies the fuel molecules.
Flame front technology is an interesting science. The biggest difference between using the correct quantity of acetone and not, is, the fuel burns so much cleaner than any catylitic convertor can handle. In other words, not only can you increase the felt hp, reducing demand, the emissions are vastly improved.
We used to add acetone to the racing fuel back then. That was when we noticed significant differences in performance. We could drop compression and get more runs with a given engine.
Acetone does not increase compression. Reducing the head clearance with a given stroke does. Same with changing piston top configuration.
I still have my 350/388 425hp chevy in my van. When we left Los Angeles and arrived here, we had averaged 22mpg with six tons on board. The van, empty, will still pick the front wheels off the ground at 35mph! Once again, I dropped to 2:73 rears with posi. I cannot get it to light the tires from a stop, but, it will pull the fronts off the ground untill it hits 65. The mrs., hates it. It idles lopey, and has a dynamic power curve. At 70mph, it revs at 1550. A real puller.
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thewiz
has rocks in the head
"What good is money if you don't spend it"
Member since January 2004
Posts: 735
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Fuel
Nov 8, 2007 17:45:58 GMT -5
Post by thewiz on Nov 8, 2007 17:45:58 GMT -5
i use to work for allied signal now honeywell. we made phenol and a byproduct was acetone " aka paint thinner, nail polish remover". after dealing with fires next to tanks filled with acetone i'm happy just putting gas in my tank.
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Fuel
Nov 8, 2007 19:30:40 GMT -5
Post by Bikerrandy on Nov 8, 2007 19:30:40 GMT -5
One more thing to add- Boring the cylinders for oversized pistons will also increase the compression ratio a little. It's cheaper than stroking the engine, but you won't get the increased torque like you would by stroking. Reducing the piston-to-head clearance is also cheaper in most cases but you'll have to consider valve to piston clearance, and detonation. Higher compression engines require higher octane fuels. Since your Chevy is a 72 (pre-emissions), I'd lower the compression and supercharge it. ;D
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Fuel
Nov 8, 2007 20:15:59 GMT -5
Post by docone31 on Nov 8, 2007 20:15:59 GMT -5
With that scenario, just pull the heads, add a .020 copper head gasket, 6/71 blower, Hildebrand injectors, and hang on.
The thread however is about beating the system. Bumping the hp to produce fuel economy. That is the answer, bumping the hp. Ultimately a complete redo is the total answer, with acetone. Gobs of torque with almost 0 emissions.
I have been building engines for over 30yrs. I have seen fads come and go. Old school is good school, and acetone is part of old school. The difference is you can take an old grocery getter, add acetone, and get better mileage. Reliably. When the Mrs misses a tank and just tops up, we can feel the difference. It is slight, but we can feel the abscence.
Increasing the compression with MTBE additive is almost counter productive. It is not high compression friendly. Catylitic convertors need it to clean the platinum in the convertor.
The small amount of acetone modifies the molecules of fuel. This is not like a magnetic clamp on, or other snake oil device. It changes the flame front reaction in the internal combustion engine. In other words, if there is an hot spot in the piston, acetone makes the fuel react without double ignition, and, it clean burns. Even the oil leakage into the piston chamber is consumed by the flame rather than a partial burn.
A blower is definately my idea of a prime additive. Not so good on economy though. A 7:1 compression, with 28lbs can make a believer out of anyone. I do love the sound also.
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chassroc
Cave Dweller 
Rocks are abundant when you have rocktumblinghobby pals
Member since January 2005
Posts: 3,586
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Fuel
Nov 13, 2007 13:42:51 GMT -5
Post by chassroc on Nov 13, 2007 13:42:51 GMT -5
One question- Can anyone do this? or do you need some FloriDUHians Doc?
csroc
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Fuel
Nov 13, 2007 15:16:01 GMT -5
Post by docone31 on Nov 13, 2007 15:16:01 GMT -5
Anyone can do this, if, they have either built an engine or two, or know someone who does and is willing to help out. Machine shops will do individual work, heads, manifolds, cylinder boring. Most good machine shops will even rebuild the engine there.
I prefer that method as they cut the parts, they know how to make it work.
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