Crystalclear
starting to spend too much on rocks
I'm Anthony ^That's Buster^
Member since September 2006
Posts: 217
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Post by Crystalclear on Oct 25, 2006 0:46:45 GMT -5
I don't know if anyone thought of this before, I'm sure they have. But I bought my first set of tools and wire the other day, I have made a few things. I can't help but wonder that heating up the wire first would make it more malleable and then you could get a near perfect wrap then it would cool down and become hard again.
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Post by Tweetiepy on Oct 25, 2006 13:29:11 GMT -5
Just a thought here, but wouldn't heating up the wire make it more fragile specially in the small sizes? - like it would stretch too much. I have no idea but someone with silversmithing might want to comment. I prefer dead soft wire, but have worked with half hard and Doc recomments full hard (which I can't even fathom trying to bend!).
Most wires you can bent with fingers, specially stuff in the 24-22 gauge size .
Maybe someone can comment on the wire warming
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Post by hermatite on Oct 25, 2006 13:42:17 GMT -5
Heating wire to make it more maleable is called "annealing" it. It won't harden again once it cools, it will only harden through working it. Heating it, say, with a torch, will also cause firescale and this has to be removed with chemical pickle. Kind of a pain imho. Your best bet is always to get the hardness of wire best suited for your needs.
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Post by hermatite on Oct 25, 2006 13:43:31 GMT -5
Oh, also, if you heated the wire enough to anneal it,there's no way you could handle it under after it cooled down anyway.
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Post by krazydiamond on Oct 25, 2006 14:01:59 GMT -5
the other way to harden annealed wire is to tumble it (yup, in a regular rotary tumbler) with steel shot and metal burnishing powder. shines it up nice too.
KD
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Crystalclear
starting to spend too much on rocks
I'm Anthony ^That's Buster^
Member since September 2006
Posts: 217
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Post by Crystalclear on Oct 26, 2006 16:10:09 GMT -5
Ok, then explain to me how I see all these designs that look so perfect, and with out any kinks. I did 2 bracelets and one ring and they look crappy I'll post pictures of them... maybe. But my point is that it is just not neat and tidy? YA KNOW? I mean my poor fingers hurt so badly after. FOR like a week! I'm 23 and it felt like I had arthritis in my phalanges.
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Post by docone31 on Oct 26, 2006 17:02:45 GMT -5
Annealing is a way to soften metals. The firescale is removed with Pickle, sodium bisulphate and boiling water. I have been a wire wrapper for over 25yrs. The biggest mistake I made was starting with soft wire. When I wrap, I use only hard wire. I have written several tutorials on this forum on that subject. The key to keeping the wire wraps looking good, is first practice, practice, practice, practice and then practice! The next step is keeping tools sharp. Sharp tools leave no marks! Sharp, square, and never, never, never mix metals with wire. A tool for silver should never hit gold, a tool for gold should never hit silver. Same with copper, brass, and titanium. Never, never, never allow a tool for non-ferrous metals even touch ferrous metal. It will permanently damage the tool for further use on gold, or silver. Keep at it, you can do it.
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Crystalclear
starting to spend too much on rocks
I'm Anthony ^That's Buster^
Member since September 2006
Posts: 217
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Post by Crystalclear on Oct 26, 2006 20:30:49 GMT -5
so are you saying this is how you do it? Annealing is a way to soften metals. The firescale is removed with Pickle, sodium bisulphate and boiling water.
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Post by docone31 on Oct 26, 2006 22:05:27 GMT -5
It sounds like you want to anneal the wire. Ok. First, keep O2 off the wire. Either anneal it on a board, like a 2 X 12 or smaller. I like the larger pieces so the flame does not hit the table. Watch the colour of the wire when heating. First, make a solution of denatured alcohol and borax/boric acid mix. Dip the piece(s) to be annealed into it, and light the piece(s). You should get a green flame off the piece. Then anneal on either a piece of wood, or charcoal. You should do it in a kiln with ground charcoal. That is the most predictable way. I do it that way. If using a torch, make an enrichening flame. You should see occasional yellow in the blue point. Enrichening the flame reduces the amount of O2 to make fire scale. When the colour of the particular metal is reached, either remove the heat source, or slowly change the colour as needed to reach the temper needed. Then, immerse the material in Pickle. Rinse in clear water, and then polish the entire piece. Firescale especially in silver goes into the stellatite layers of the alloy so the outer layer, unless being soldered over, the silver solder displaces the pitting, must be mechanically removed. It is in microns but it must be done, or the material will not polish properly. Cratex polishing wheels are real good. Silicone rubber is also great for a smooth polish. Use the highest speed on the handpiece, and lower the rubber to the work. Keep the rubber at the same height from the work so the finish will be identical from start to finish. Annealed pieces, though, will return to original shape in time. If any transition from original is made, the piece must be supported mechanically by at least two intersections. An hard intersection is recquired. Use either hard solder, or planish the finished joint. Use a 3 micron pad to polish the planish hammer so it does not print on the work. It is that easy. I anneal a lot of pieces in my work for a desired effect.
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Post by hermatite on Oct 27, 2006 8:55:21 GMT -5
Actually I don't think annealing the wire would help. The reasons these wraps look perfect is... practice. Hours and hours and hours of practice. Also lots of frustration and, yes, hurting fingers (I was recently wrapped until my finger bled...I suggest laying off before actual blood appears). I took a class at my local bead store to show me some short cuts and I know others here are self taught but ALL of us have crappy wraps to show for our beginning efforts. There's no trick to getting good pieces...you just have to keep trying. PRACTICE
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Post by deb193 on Oct 27, 2006 9:46:35 GMT -5
I agree. That whole heating, chemically treating, pickling .. process seems silly when lots f folks eventually manage nice wraps without all that.
I like Kim's work and asked her about her wire. She recommended 22g dead soft square, and 21g half-hard half-round.
You can also get some 22g brass square wire to practice with. It is dirt cheap.
Also you can put tape on your tools to avoid some marks. There is also a plastic dip to coat the tips of tools.
Finally, there were some rubber clamp thingies discussed a while back. They help hold wire and keep things lined up an organized.
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Crystalclear
starting to spend too much on rocks
I'm Anthony ^That's Buster^
Member since September 2006
Posts: 217
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Post by Crystalclear on Oct 30, 2006 15:03:58 GMT -5
can you tell the hardness of the wire by the gauge?
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blarneystone
spending too much on rocks
Rocks in my head
Member since March 2010
Posts: 307
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Post by blarneystone on Oct 30, 2006 15:19:36 GMT -5
Anthony~
You might benefit from picking up a metal working or silver smithing book if you're interested in learning some of the finer points. A book like that can help you learn some of the basic principles of metal work and how metals respond to heat, impact, annealing, etc... I have a great one at home but can't think of the name right now.. I'll post the name later.
But.... if you just want to learn wire wrapping, the folks here can give you all the information you need. If Kim says you don't need to treat (soften) the wire before hand than you can take that to the bank! I took her advice and got some of the 22g dead soft SS wire and I can work with it easily. ...and like Daniel said it's probably best to buy some cheap brass wire first and then practice, practice, practice!!
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Post by hermatite on Oct 30, 2006 15:38:31 GMT -5
Nope you can't tell the hardness of the wire by the guage. The guage is refers to the thickness of the wire, the hardness refers to the (I'm not sure of the technical words) but of the ease of bending it. Dead soft is very easy to bend but can also be unbent easily. Full hard is stiffer and harder to correct if you make a mistake. Full hard, half hard, and dead soft wire will often all be sold in the same guage by the same manufacturer. Like the others here, I recommend practicing with some cheap copper or brass wire...for example, some people use craft wire that you can pick up at any craft store. That way if you make a mistake you haven't wasted a packet of money on expensive wire when you cut it apart and start over. Wrapping isn't easy. My first wrap looked like a demented five year old did it. The only way to get something saleable is practice and if you need help, I know we'll all be happy to offer assistance.
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Post by Tweetiepy on Oct 30, 2006 21:49:50 GMT -5
To add to Herm's comment, dead soft wire can also become full hard or at least half-hard if you keep playing with it or work it too much with hands or tools!
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Crystalclear
starting to spend too much on rocks
I'm Anthony ^That's Buster^
Member since September 2006
Posts: 217
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Post by Crystalclear on Nov 2, 2006 3:14:22 GMT -5
Thanks all, the store only sell soft copper anyway. So we'll see.
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