rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
Posts: 1,507
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Post by rallyrocks on Mar 26, 2006 21:49:49 GMT -5
I had a couple of them let go Friday night, but most lasted the whole evening.
Then yesterday I ran a few stones and they stayed on just fine- this morning I ran a couple of pieces of obsidian and they stayed together
This evening I dopped up a bunch- like 15 stones and damned if EVERY ONE didn't fall off! a few poppped off right as the stones hit the coarse wheel, a few made it to the 220 wheel, and only a couple went on to the 350 belt, but before long they all fell off- What gives?
I am using green wax and dowels, and using a dop pot I bought from Arrowhead- says its a Rock Rascal model D.
The only thing I can think it might be was the wax not sitting hot long enough as these were set just after it liquified
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Post by stoner on Mar 26, 2006 21:55:16 GMT -5
Hey Rally. Are you heating up the stones too? I heat the stones to a point where my fingers get a little toasty while I'm putting them on the dop stick. I use the green wax too.
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
Posts: 1,507
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Post by rallyrocks on Mar 27, 2006 0:51:16 GMT -5
I'll give that a try- and I'm letting them stay warm for a while afterwards...
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Post by rocklicker on Mar 27, 2006 0:54:59 GMT -5
Hmm, something must be wrong. I just got to the point of loosing very few rocks off sticks (out of 20, only one fell off, and on the new batch, all are staying on so far.) Here's my thoughts (BTW, I am obessed with dopping, so I hope this doesn't sound too weird) 1. Black wax is stronger and melts at a higher temp. I used to use green and went to black. Green should work fine though. Everyone uses it. Black is a little stonger and more brittle (brittle=not an issue) 2. I heat up the wax, stick and rock before afixing everything. 3. Make sure your slabs/preforms are clean. I wash them off with soap and water then thoroughly dry them out. I also handle the edges to avoid getting oil from your hands onto the rocks. 4. After they are dopped, I put them back on the warmer, stick pointing up, until the wax starts to slightly melt again. I watch for the wax to get kinda shiney but not too liquidy as to not un-dop accidenly. 5. Let them cool slowly. Find a part of the dop pot that's a bit cooler and let them sit there for a little while before removing them completely. The idea is to let them cool slowly so the wax bondes better. 6. If you leave them overnight, keep them in a place where the temperature will not vary a lot. Mine sit in the garage. If you keep them in a holder (anything with lots of 1/4 inch holes) I think they do better because the stone is not on a cold or warm surface. 7. Also, it may be your choice of rocks. I think some rocks take better to the dop that others. For example, I have the toughest time getting blue lace agate to stick. Others, like most agates, love the wax. Even with all that I loose some, especially little ones with less wax-to-stone exposure. Hope that helps. If you do all that and still have problems, I can't help ya. Steve
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
Posts: 1,507
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Post by rallyrocks on Mar 27, 2006 1:03:33 GMT -5
Thanks Steve, I was starting to learn some of that by trial and error myself, so I appreciate the insight from a seasoned veteran.
I'm wondering if it might be worth having a tray in the oven or something else to warm the rocks before going to set them, The wax starts to cool as soon as you pull it out, and pre-heating by setting them on the dop pot seems kind of hit or miss- (unless I can borrow that thermal imaging camera from work some evening)
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Post by rocklicker on Mar 27, 2006 1:53:37 GMT -5
Ohmagosh, you posted that photo of your setup just as I was blabbing on and on. Looks like you already got most of what I said. I think the idea of a tray in the oven is avery good one, but the stove may work too. Before I had a dop setup I used a cookie sheet on the stove (electric) on low. Oh, and by the way, I am no seasoned veteran. I have only seriously been doing cabs for 4 months. I just did a lot of reading and am obsessed with dopping. Rocks flying off the stick make me jumpy. The only think I can say is that judging from your photo, maybe skinnier dowells may work better. It would increase the amount of wax you have holding the rock on. The more the better. That's speculation though. I use some sticks that size too.
Oh, and BTW, that's a fancy looking dop pot there. Very nice. Steve
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Post by Tweetiepy on Mar 27, 2006 9:09:32 GMT -5
I have limited experience with dopping & even posted asking for an alternative to the dop pot - but here's what they do at the club & I've only lost a very few - the wax is heated on a heating plate of some sort & the stone too - to see if the stone is warm enough, put a film of water on it, if it evaporates quickly it's ready. Then swirl the dop stick in the wax, coating the end of the stick as well as a little higher up - smoosh this on the stone, smoothing the wax on the stone with your now burnt fingers - I leave it stone side up in a holder (at the club) something so the stone won,t move & can cool - wait about 15-20 minutes or more to cool & then go on with grinding - they showed me a technique at the shop when I took my cabbing class but it never worked and always fell off - my way has lost me less stones - I don't keep heating up the stones after the wax is on them
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Post by gemkoi on Mar 27, 2006 15:24:26 GMT -5
I personal still say glue is the best route, That is if time is an issue. Because you only need to wipe the stone with a bit of acetone to remove oils and dirt. Mix glue, set, and within 15 minutes you can be cabbing. AS for me, it about time and production. AS i will do 30-50 cabs in one sitting. So if i have to dop any, i dont want to spend anymore time than i have to playing with hot wax that can fail easy if you not careful. or as Rocklicker notes, a good solid process for letting the wax bond properly and cool down correctly. AS there are so many things that can and do cause the wax to fail. It does work, and playing with wax is fun sometimes. I personally believe the whole wax thing is just to accessorize your grinding. IT a traditional thing until glue came around that was strong enough. AS most lapidaries i have worked with over the years who have been doing it for half their life, all use glue. For the same time constraint reasons and less mess.
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Post by Cher on Mar 28, 2006 11:40:01 GMT -5
Ok, I have a question. I can't remember who said it, or if it was even here that I read it. But I remember something about when dopping the wax should be smoothed out to the edge of the stone ... do any of you do this? I can see from Rally's those aren't ... anyone else?
Gemkoi, what kind of glue do you use?
LOL Don't even know why I'm asking these questions since I don't have the equipment to do this ... just curious I guess.
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Post by gemkoi on Mar 28, 2006 12:48:32 GMT -5
Hey Cher, You can get a better bond with wax the more surface area you use. But that would fail sometime too for me.
Currently i use Devcon, it is a two part epoxy, and sets within 5minutes after mixed.
My process goes like this; choose which side for all performs, wipe the back with a little acetone on paper towel, get out all needed dops, make sure the doping side is flat on the sticks, if not, buzz them real quick on the grinder, mix glue, grab stick, dip in glue, press stick to back of preform, invert and put in a dop holder i made.
That’s it, come back in 15 minutes and my grinder be singing. And once i have all the performs chosen, the process takes maybe 10minutes to do for a dozen cabs.
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MalStone
starting to spend too much on rocks
Underwater Rock Hound
Member since January 2006
Posts: 221
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Post by MalStone on Mar 28, 2006 16:43:26 GMT -5
Hi! Could you take your process another step - for those of us that are clueless about this but want to give it a try! AFTER you do the grinding and want to separate stick from stone, how do you do it and how do you remove the 2 part epoxy from the stone without scratching it or anything? This question probably sounds really dumb, but I've never done any of this!
Deb
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
Posts: 1,507
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Post by rallyrocks on Mar 28, 2006 18:29:34 GMT -5
For wax its really simple, put it in the freezer for a few minute, then pull it out- if they don't fall off right away, try dipping it in warm water- the different rates of thermal expansion cause the rock to just pop off.
I expect epoxy might work like that too, but I haven't tried it yet.
Although the tip to do a good pre-heat on the stones and then cool them slowly seemed to have solved the bulk of my problems, as most of the stuff I did Sunday night held through all of last night, and I hope to finish a bunch of them this evening.
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Post by Tweetiepy on Mar 28, 2006 18:43:51 GMT -5
I warmed my dop wax on the stove (gotta get a coffee warmer) & the stones seem to be holding - was clueless for 1.023 seconds when the dop wouldnt, stick to the stone before I realized that I forgot to heat up the stone too - and of course I scalded my fingers on the hot stone when I tried to smoosh the wax onto the stone
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Mar 28, 2006 19:03:51 GMT -5
OK Stefan's theroy on the almighty DOP! (or how I dop) Ok first things first- I have dopped over 50 stones now- I have only had one let go on a wheel, 4 have fallen off after some time (usually after the 600 belt) and 3 I pulled off when retesting. I start by melting the wax- but I also heat the dops (I use doweling and golf tees) i place 3 or 4 stones on the warmer AFTER the wax has come to temp- It does not take too long to heat the stones- So then I scoop up wax on the dop, roll it a bit (to get a cone shaped ball of wax) and mash it onto the stone (still on the heat) the wax should rement when it touches the stone, I then lift the dop (with the stone attached) and place it on a chunk of 2x4 to cool a bit (I usually work 3 or 4 stones at a time) after it cools to the point wher the wax is still very soft (but does not stick to skin) I smooth the wax around the dop and the stone- then set it aside to cool. That is it- very simple- After the stone has cooled off (usually 10 to 15 min- I have a strange way of telling if it is cool enough- I use my outer lip to see if it still is warm) I pull the stone straight away from the dop (not too hard- but give it a good tug) if the stone wiggles or comes off then you probably did not have the stone warm enough- Also when grinding- After you finish a stone-I set them on a rag (or paper towel) sideways so the water runs off and does not pool around the wax- I am 100% convinced that the stone releases from a dop because moisture get between the stone and the wax- (this is why the freezer trick works so well- by rapidly cooling the stone You introduce moisture between the stone and wax) When grinding- the stone heats slightly- if you leave it with a pool of water around the bond the chances of drawing moisture under the wax is greatly increased. So that is it- my version of how to dop-
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Post by gemkoi on Mar 28, 2006 20:11:33 GMT -5
For the gluing method, 9 out of 10 stones will release with a bit of leavage from the thumb. And when that doesn’t work, i simply pinch the glue area behind the cab with some tile nippers.
No matter which method you use, wax or glue, both are a process you must repeat and prefect to your likening.
And a note on using wax, you can recycle it for some time before it goes bad.
Also, Some cabers will use a nail in the wooden dop head for the cab placement, which provide an easier release from the glue, because its metal. But i found that not to be necessary as I never use much glue, and keep my stone size to dop size ratio 4 to 1. When the cabs are the size of the dop, because they are small cabs, the tile nipper process is usually the only way to remove the cab.
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