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Post by gemkoi on Sept 27, 2006 17:33:30 GMT -5
This is a general idea, geared to cabochon cutters and jewelers who set cabochons. ;D A bezel is part of the stone, in which a jeweler will use to set, or wrap the cabochon. It is usually only in the lower 2-3mm of the cabochon, and runs along the perimeter of the shape. There, to me are 3 different types of bezels most commonly used. A: the Classic Bezel  This bezel is what most often you will find in lapidary how to books for cutting cabochons. Notice how it curves all the way down to the bottom. B: The Refined Bezel This bezel is refined by most lapidaries for jewelry setting. It is also could be consider a "tumbled" bezel. Meaning the stone was preformed on a grinder and tumbled to finish. It has a lower curve and a slight under cut curve to the bottom for better setting. C: The Jewelers Bezel  This bezel i was introduce to by local jewelers and a local cabochon cutter who been cutting for over 30years. It is very similar to the refined bezel, but This bezel has an highly defined edge, 2-3mm up from the bottom. And stays within the 15degree slant. But the slant is as flat as possible. IT is also slightly undercut on the bottom to allow for proper setting into jewelry. This is the bezel i consider "professionally cut" So whats your ideal bezel, do i note it here out of the three, or? |
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
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Post by rallyrocks on Sept 27, 2006 18:01:31 GMT -5
After taking a class in silversmithing that involved setting a stone, I have a much better perspective on this subject than I had just a few months ago.
And sadly a lot of the cabs I've done so far are quite far from ideal in this regard.
The "classic" bezel can work well if the setting is totally clear or even undercut between the bezel and base, it also lends itself best to prong type settings, but the wide sharp edged base can create problems with settings that do not have any relief in that area.
Your "refined" bezel is probably a decent target for intermediate cutters, the undercut on the bottom edge allows for setting when there is a bit of solder filet between the bezel wire and the base, but it will still call for a wider bezel wire or longer prongs to reach up and wrap over the face to hold the stone tight.
But I think we all really should be shooting for the "Jewler's" bezel wherever we can, as that gives the jeweler the easiest time of mouting the stone, exposing a maximum area of the stone for display and requiring a minimal amount of silver/gold for the bezel.
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offbeat
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Post by offbeat on Sept 27, 2006 21:36:49 GMT -5
Interesting thread, Shain. 99% of the time I grind the jewelers bezel. Most of my cabs are mounted in silver settings and I try match the bezel of the silver case to that of the stone when I solder it up. When grinding stones to put in my display case a lot of them are ground to the classic style. Even on the classic style I take a bit off the bottom edge to help prevent chipping. My case has glass shelves, I like the look of the classic style when they are displayed this way.
I have also found that when I grind cabs for others they seem to prefer the jewelers bezel grind almost all of the time. It will be interesting to see what others do.
I was chatting with Ed about some of Bearcreeks material. Some of the preforms I purchased from him were very thin. I tried to get a bit of bezel on them but my fingers took a beating!! They almost require the classic style. Bill
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller 
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,494
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Post by Sabre52 on Sept 27, 2006 21:45:13 GMT -5
Jeweler's bezel unless I screw it up *L*...mel
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yeahda1
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2005
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Post by yeahda1 on Sept 28, 2006 12:05:49 GMT -5
I like mels reply that hits my answer 100%
Dick B.
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stefan
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Member since January 2005
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Post by stefan on Sept 28, 2006 12:32:39 GMT -5
hehehe 3 months ago I did not understand the Bezel at all (as I don't mount anything at this point- it really doen't matter) But as I practice I shoot for the Jewlers- but I seem to screw it up pretty easily so the Refined is what I end up with!
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Post by rockds on Sept 28, 2006 22:05:29 GMT -5
My goal is always the jewler's bezel, although it is hard to do with a very thin cab. Would love to know how you do or what you recommend doing on a cab that is 2-3 mm think.
robert
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
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Post by rallyrocks on Sept 28, 2006 23:03:15 GMT -5
wow, I try to cut them thin, but 4-5mm is thin in my book....
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Post by stoner on Sept 29, 2006 1:04:35 GMT -5
I work with thin slabs alot, especially agates with inclusions. If the slab is extremely thin, like a couple I got from Bearcreek, then I just bevel the top and leave the rest of it flat. I just finished a couple of Montana agates that were about 3mm thick and I did a slight dome on both of those, and still had enough to leave a flat bezel of about 1.5-2mm.
I give all my cabs the jewelers bezel although I don't angle it toward the front 15 degrees. I also give the back edge a tiny bevel, just to take the sharp edge off.
I've used the cinch type settings on my cabs with no problems and I haven't had any complaints from anyone who has used my cabs.
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Post by gemkoi on Sept 29, 2006 13:23:06 GMT -5
Ya, thin preforms are hard to get a dome and proper bevel, but if the size(shape)is small enough, it can be done. The larger the surface area on a thin preform, the harder it is to give a proper bevel to. I'm with Ed, if its too thin, it will be a flat top cab, similar to Sands cabojohns. I am working on a super nice, super thin piece of Kentucky Imperial Red agate. it about 3mm thick at the thickest spot. So it will be a flat cab when finished.
Also, to me, though i will cut the bezel height during the initial shaping on my 100grit wheel. I actually don't really cut the bezel until my 220 stage. Because all to often on freeform cutting, you can screw up the bezel easy by refining it during the first stage. So i always keep in mind the shape will be fixed, along with the bezel on the next stage. But this only works best using metal wheels. As you cant really prefect that shape or bezel using a drum or soft wheel. Though you can get close. For the real high dollar cabs, its worth that extra time and money on a metal wheel.
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Shelbeeray
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2006
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Post by Shelbeeray on Sept 29, 2006 23:52:26 GMT -5
Hey Freeform - from a newbie - THANK YOU! I had no idea that was what I was supposed to be aiming for! The pics and description help a LOT. This would be a good one to have in the lapidary tips as well. IMHO
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Post by rocklicker on Oct 1, 2006 1:18:22 GMT -5
Thanks for the diagrams Freeform. That clears up a lot. I have been hoping someone would post something like that. I try for jewelers bezels, though I haven't been doing it for a while so I am still perfecting the technique. I start with the 15 degree bezel and do my best to leave it intact as best I can through each grit stage. It works out good most of the time. I don't ever sell cabs or make jewelery so I'm not too particular about it.
Steve
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