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Post by akansan on Jun 13, 2007 20:41:59 GMT -5
Okay, I just switched to a leather pad for my 14K & 50k diamond paste. Now how do I prevent my stone from launching itself to the ceiling? I'm going to attempt to get them dopped tonight to hopefully have a better grip on the stone, 'cause otherwise I can't polish the face of the cabs on the leather! The sides I can hold onto well enough to prevent them from reaching orbit.
Luckily, only one stone has died in the use of the leather. And I wasn't really happy with that cab anyway. The other one survived with no injury.
Any hints from the long time cabbers?
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Post by stoner on Jun 13, 2007 22:00:23 GMT -5
That's one of the reasons I stopped using the leather pad on the endplate and started using a belt instead. But if you dop the cabs, it will be a lot easier to use the pad and keep them from flying out of your hand. If you use wax to dop the cab though, you'll have to watch the heat build-up or the wax will melt and let go of the stone. I've been using super glue to dop my stones.
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Post by sbreed on Jun 13, 2007 22:50:51 GMT -5
Ed, how do you get the super glue off the dop & cabs?
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turnedstone
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since January 2006
Posts: 766
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Post by turnedstone on Jun 13, 2007 23:08:24 GMT -5
Acetone RockHobbit nasty smelling but works.
George
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Post by rocklicker on Jun 13, 2007 23:53:30 GMT -5
Yeah, dopping will fix your problem. I use opads and I couldn;t imagine trying to hold cabs on them. I know all about the grabbing. One thing I noticed with pads is that you have to secure them well to whateve backing plate you use. If there are unattached spots they can "fold" up and grab right onto the stone. I use rubber cement to attach the leather pad to the backing plate.
If you are using a flat lap to so the polishing, then a wadded up towell around the edges catches the wayward cabs without damaging them.
Steve
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Post by stoner on Jun 14, 2007 0:29:09 GMT -5
Sheri, I buy my glues and accelerators from a hobby shop locally, and they also sell a solvent made by the same company. It's not acetone, but I don't know what it is because it has no odor. Acetone will work on most super glues and is most effective if you let it soak for a while.
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Post by akansan on Jun 14, 2007 8:03:53 GMT -5
Okay, the dopping (and de- woolying) helped. However, I wasn't able to get the same level of shine on four of my six I did yesterday as I have in the past. They all looked great coming off the resin 3000, really looked like they would take a killer shine. However, they never got beyond that. It's like the leather prevented any further shine. Have y'all encountered this? I'm taking them back to the resin belt I had been using to see if it makes any difference. If they shine up on that, I'm not sure what I'll do.
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller 
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Jun 14, 2007 22:14:33 GMT -5
Superglue does'nt like water, it makes it let go easily. Soak your dop sticks and stones in water overnight. If the stone won't pop off, freeze it for an hour and it usually will.
We take large nails, (spikes ) and grind the head smooth on the side of a regular wheel , and then superglue the rock with one drop of glue. After grinding , I am very impatient, I heat the nail about one inch back from the head of the nail with a small Butane torch, while holding the stone over a wash cloth. After about 15 seconds the heat running up the nail shank towards the head end breakes the bond and the stone falls on the cloth. If the rock fails to let go after 15 seconds or so, just press the side of the stone on the cloth and it will slide off. I would'nt try this method with Amber or opal but hav'nt lost anything yet, KNOCK KNOCK. The stone does get warm enough that you would'nt want someone to drop it down the back of your shorts but not hot enough to crack it. There will be some glue holding to the back of the stone but it is easily lifted with the blade of a box or ExActo knife.
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Post by rockds on Jun 14, 2007 22:31:41 GMT -5
I have the 14K and 50K wheels - works great, no dop
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Post by stoner on Jun 15, 2007 23:56:11 GMT -5
Ronda, when you say de-woolying, are you referring to breaking in the leather? It's been a long time, but I do remember that the leather belt didn't seem to work at first. It wasn't until it started getting a nice flat shiny look that it started polishing.
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Post by MrP on Jun 16, 2007 7:38:51 GMT -5
Stoner,
Can you give us a brand name on the glues and accelerators that you use? Thanks.....MrP
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blarneystone
spending too much on rocks
Rocks in my head
Member since March 2010
Posts: 307
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Post by blarneystone on Jun 16, 2007 8:01:50 GMT -5
Stoner, Can you give us a brand name on the glues and accelerators that you use? Thanks.....MrP Ed... I could use the brand name of the glue you're using to attach rcoks to wood as well... you were telling me about it at the ranch... remember? |
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Post by stoner on Jun 16, 2007 23:52:50 GMT -5
Okay guys, I found the website for mthe instant glues. This link takes you right to the page with the glues on it, but go to his home page to access the rest of his products. bsiadhesives.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html |
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Post by akansan on Jun 17, 2007 0:16:51 GMT -5
Thanks for that info, Ed. I had to take breaks with the dop wax to let it resolidify.
As for the de-woolying, Mark reminded me to take an rock with an edge to remove some of the extra "fluff" on the rough side of the leather. It helped some, but I think it'll take a bit more before it's truly broken in. Until then, I'll just retouch the 14k and 50k on the resin belts.
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blarneystone
spending too much on rocks
Rocks in my head
Member since March 2010
Posts: 307
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Post by blarneystone on Jun 17, 2007 14:58:33 GMT -5
Thanks Ed! I found a local dealer....
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