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Help!
Jul 10, 2007 17:36:19 GMT -5
Post by sbreed on Jul 10, 2007 17:36:19 GMT -5
I am having a heck of a time rounding the top of my cabs. I get the shape and the base just fine. I start blending turning the cab at an angle, going clockwise and using the J motion. I have read the tutorials. Still no luck! I keep ending up with flat spots. Can anyone explain how to round it?
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller 
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,496
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Help!
Jul 10, 2007 19:50:49 GMT -5
Post by Sabre52 on Jul 10, 2007 19:50:49 GMT -5
Hmmm I guess it's a matter of touch. I rotate the dop stick holding the stone while I rock the cab from the edge of the bezel to the center. I constantly check the contour during the process. Kind of hard to explain but I think having the stone dopped really helps control the process....Mel
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Jul 10, 2007 21:16:49 GMT -5
Post by sbreed on Jul 10, 2007 21:16:49 GMT -5
That is an excellent description! Guess I will have to resort to dopping!
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Jul 11, 2007 13:13:52 GMT -5
Post by krazydiamond on Jul 11, 2007 13:13:52 GMT -5
yes, try dopping, it's a pain in the butt, BUT it does allow more control over your stone motion.
KD
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Help!
Jul 12, 2007 8:30:32 GMT -5
Post by stefan on Jul 12, 2007 8:30:32 GMT -5
yea I had to dop before I could get a decent dome- another thing I like to do is rough cut the cab to the top (basically it should almost look faceted all the way to the very center of the dome) them go back and work on smoothing eveything out (take away the facets) Let me see if I can find the old online tutorial I learned from--- hold on--- www.rockhounds.com/rockshop/oplc_cab2.shtml |
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Jul 12, 2007 9:46:02 GMT -5
Post by Lady B on Jul 12, 2007 9:46:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the tutorial link, Stefan. Very helpful.
Lady B
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Jul 12, 2007 12:31:19 GMT -5
Post by freeform on Jul 12, 2007 12:31:19 GMT -5
movement is key, regardless of specfic driection. What is your grind stage after your corase? Domeing can be done without a dop, but a dop does allow more control, espically if you are cutting a oval or round shape.
I run 80corase, then 120. These two wheels make most of those nasty facets that make a dome of the cab non-uniform. I start sanding on a well worn 100grit belt after the 120 corase stage. And the cab doesnt move from that point untill all divets of facets are gone. If the stone is soft, i will usally start on the worn 100 stage or at a lesser grit.
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Jul 12, 2007 12:38:16 GMT -5
Post by sbreed on Jul 12, 2007 12:38:16 GMT -5
I start on an well worn 80 grit, then move on to a newer 120 wheel. Then on to 220, 400 & 600. All of those are diamond wheels. I then go to an expando wheel with 1200 & 3000 diamond paste.
That tutorial has helped! Also, the explanation. Thanks Stefan!
Shain, you do the facet thingy too? Which grit do you use to round out the facets?
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Jul 13, 2007 10:24:35 GMT -5
Post by freeform on Jul 13, 2007 10:24:35 GMT -5
Ahh, so it sounds like you are using hardwheels all the way to 600grit? In my experince, Sanding is best done on some type of plyable wheel. ie; expando drum, Nova type wheels. Esp when time is a factor. My worn 100grit belt takes care of 98% of those divets or facets created by the shaping wheels, which are metal diamond. Once the cab shows next to no facets or divets, i move on to 220. In some cases of softer stones, the 220 grit belt takes care of any such facets or divits and/or that last 2%(which is usually near the gridle line or on the sides).
Please note, using metal wheels completly before prepolishing can work. It just takes longer with a sharper learning curve. Sanding on a plyable type wheel takes allot of work out of the cabbing process. Belts can just wear out faster than a hard wheel.
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