bouldergal
freely admits to licking rocks
Glacier Meadow
Member since July 2007
Posts: 783
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Post by bouldergal on Dec 2, 2007 15:17:50 GMT -5
I've cut my first two cabs. The one cut from the center of a thunderegg is less than spectacular by a long shot. I cut the second from some MichaelJohn crysocholla and it's really pretty. I only have grinding, no sanding wheels so I sanded it completely smooth by hand. I do have a leather covered wheel which I tried to used some CO paste to polish with. I'm getting no where. Still beautifully smooth but dull when dry. I don't know how to do the polishing for sure! Can someone help?
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Post by Jurrasic Jonje on Dec 2, 2007 15:49:19 GMT -5
when I first started cabbing ed charged my leather with diamond paste. I can't remember what grits. It works great.
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
Posts: 1,507
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Post by rallyrocks on Dec 2, 2007 16:43:58 GMT -5
So what sort of "sanding" are you doing?
Typical grades for a diamond sanding operation would go from 240-320, through 600,1200,3000, and 8000 to get to a good pre-polish state.
Then compounds at 14,000 and 50,000 even 100,000 are used to get the final glassy shine.
If you are using wet-or dry SiC paper, I'd use everything I could find- progressivly of course, but I wouldn't think I was ready for polish on a leather wheel until I go a step or two past 600- 1000, 1500 and 2000 are usually readily available in body shop supply places.
But 600 is usually still a little on the scratchy side, especially for hard material like T-egg innards, hand sanding is not terribly effective in general for hard materials and polish isn't going to gloss it over.
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fossilbrain
spending too much on rocks
Cookie Monster agate
Member since October 2007
Posts: 360
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Post by fossilbrain on Dec 4, 2007 11:06:13 GMT -5
I feel your pain. I got some mini-disks for my Dremel from ameritool-inc.com that go from 320 thru 14,000 diamond paste. They're not the easiest thing in the world but they're getting me by intill I build or procure a real arbor. The bench grinder I have right now leaves some hellacious striations to sand out.
When I do use sandpaper on something hard (in between Dremel sessions) I've been wrapping and taping it around something to make a sort "file" of variable SiC grit.
I've been marking particularly tenacious striations with a pencil so that they don't just diappear when wet.
I've been using my WorkForce saw table to Dremel on -- with the saw on for water spray.
14,000 diamond starts getting shiny and makes me want some 50,000.
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bouldergal
freely admits to licking rocks
Glacier Meadow
Member since July 2007
Posts: 783
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Post by bouldergal on Dec 5, 2007 12:13:25 GMT -5
Great help, FossilBrain! I have a Dremel and have been going thru my Diamond Pacific catalog trying to figure out what sanding/polishing disks to get. They have those with grit (one, two or three layer) from 1/2 diameter thru 1". They also have some tiny pads of different shape to use with paste, spray, etc. I couldn't figure out how to do the work while wet but you just cleared that up. I'll look at your reference catalog, but could sure use some help in what to order.
Thanks a ton!!!!!
Susan
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adrian65
Cave Dweller 
Arch to golden memories and to great friends.
Member since February 2007
Posts: 10,790
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Post by adrian65 on Dec 5, 2007 12:57:51 GMT -5
I do my sanding and polishing with flexible diamond pads: 400, 800, 1500, 3000 and "gloss". What I found out is that, while polishing flat surfaces or smooth curved ones is rather easy, polishing the high domed cabs is more tricky. At least in my case. When I polished a high domed cab, I thought I must apply a smaller force, because the contact surface between the pad and the cab is very small. So, according to all the phisics laws, I reduced the force to keep the pressure about the same as on the flat surfaces. It didn't work. The back (flat surface) was mirror shine, while the dome was dull.
Then I did the oposite, I pressed the cab with the same force as for the flat surfaces and kept the cab steady till I felt the cab wants to go away from my hand. It seems that moment, when the cab wants to run away, is when the polish starts appearing. Then I rotated the cab for polishing another tiny surface and so on. This way it worked much better, but I could barely hold the cab because of the heat.
I hope that helps a little.
Adrian
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fossilbrain
spending too much on rocks
Cookie Monster agate
Member since October 2007
Posts: 360
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Post by fossilbrain on Dec 7, 2007 0:52:10 GMT -5
Funny you mention that, Adrian, about the cab wanting to almost run away in your hand. My pads are a little flexible but the surface area is, indeed, small on a domed surface. I've been loosening my grip just enough not to let the cab fly out of my hand and almost manipulating it around in my hand with the pressure and traction of the flexidisk.
I'm calling that guy back with the potential cabbing machine in need of repair tomorrow, though, lol ;D
This whole Dremel thing has been a nice, pleasant, inexpensive surprise, though, esp. considering I already had one and just got accessories. I had no idea I'd be making cabs with this little equipment.
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bouldergal
freely admits to licking rocks
Glacier Meadow
Member since July 2007
Posts: 783
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Post by bouldergal on Dec 8, 2007 23:21:09 GMT -5
Darn. I've only got LITTLE tools. And before any of you start making wise comments, it's NOT a gender thing!!!!!
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