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Post by rocklicker on Feb 24, 2008 19:56:58 GMT -5
Hmm, that might just be the dust cap. Also, some of the little bearing balls may have been lost. If that is the bearing race, then it looks like the kind that can be repacked. All you do it take the pulley off (I know, not easy) so you can get a good look at it. Then you take out all the rollers and set them aside. Clean out all the crud then add a layer of heavy duty greese (like the automotive kind). You also need to clean the crud off the rollers as best as you can and make sure none are pitted or worn. Then push all the rollers back in making sire they are all there. They should fill up most of the outside. At most, there should be a 1 or 2 roller gap, and the yall must be the same size. Then add another layer of greese and put back on the bearing race/cap. I don't think you can overdo thegreese. The race should be secured in there real good. If whatever caused it to come out in the first place is busted, then you need to repair that otherwise it will just come right out again. BTW, I was never officially taught how to repack a bearing, but I've done it a few times and that's how I did it.
It does look like the motor was replaced on yours. I don't think the blade grads are a big deal also unless you have cats or kids hanging around the saw.
Steve
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Post by akansan on Feb 24, 2008 20:01:10 GMT -5
By "new" I meant new to me.  The metal piece could be a dust cap, which is what I assumed it was until I heard it could be otherwise. From what I could feel, there's a plastic lip that's supposed to hold that piece in place. It's come out of that lip, and I couldn't manipulate it back in when I was trying (and yes, I removed the little tightener thingy that Rocklicker's picture shows). It also appears to be bent slightly, which is probably how it managed to work itself loose from the housing in the first place. I wish I still had access to my Dad's garage at a time like this. I guess the first step is really to get that stupid pulley off, even if it means purchasing a puller. |
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stoneblue
starting to shine!
Rockin' & Rollin' Across America
Member since September 2007
Posts: 43
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Post by stoneblue on Feb 24, 2008 20:08:59 GMT -5
I was a mechanic for a bunch of years & I know that any time a bearing starts giving you trouble, just replace it. Something made it go wonky to start with. Trying to repack it (which you can't do with sealed bearings anyway) is just asking for it to fail later & mess up something else. You probably will need to rent a pulley puller to get the pulleys off. You can rent one at an auto parts store. Get a number off the bearing (or better yet, just take it with you to the parts store). This is really a relatively cheap fix for a potentially major problem if you try to scrimp.
Good Luck.
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Post by captbob on Feb 24, 2008 20:14:34 GMT -5
That set screw would still need to loosen up, better yet come out, before you could use a puller. Stick with "lefty-loosy" when working on it!
You must have some garage mechanic or handyman type around that would do it just for the pleasure of you talking with them while they worked on it!
Don't buy nuttin' you don't have to.
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Post by bobby1 on Feb 24, 2008 20:46:53 GMT -5
I think that the bearing is OK. What came loose is the bearing shield that minimizes any dirt that may try to work its way into the bearing. Generally these smaller bearings don't have a separate race like the ones on your wheels on your car.
I find that I get better performance out of penetrating oil when it comes to loosening stuck screws, pulles, etc. Even though WD-40 is highly promoted as a lubricant its primary use is to displace water (WD= Water displacement). It evaporates too quickly for me.
Bob
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Post by captbob on Feb 24, 2008 21:40:49 GMT -5
I find that I get better performance out of penetrating oil when it comes to loosening stuck screws, pulles, etc. Even though WD-40 is highly promoted as a lubricant its primary use is to displace water (WD= Water displacement). It evaporates too quickly for me. Bob Exactly! I was going to suggest PB Blaster it's what we use working on the boats, but I didn't want you to have to buy something you may never need again.  |
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Post by Woodyrock on Feb 25, 2008 1:18:07 GMT -5
Akansan:
If the bearing is gone, to make this one easier on you, since this is a 1/3 HP motor, just replace the motor, and like some one already said a good used one is quite cheap, being a very common size. A new American one is about a hundred dollars, and Chinese imports much less. If you pull the sheave, it will most likely be damaged getting it off, so just get a new one...about five dollars. While you at it you might as well get a new belt too if the one you have is not new. The one in the picture was a bit frayed.
Woody
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mirkaba
spending too much on rocks
Member since August 2006
Posts: 321
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Post by mirkaba on Feb 25, 2008 8:35:24 GMT -5
Looks to me like the loose metal pice is a dust cover. If it were the race the bearings would be gone and the motor would not turn at all. To remove the set screw use a T handle hex wrench. It will lend you a little more torque. I agree also that you should just replace the motor. There has to be a place nearby where you can acquire a good used one cheaply. When you put it all back together use a straight edge or yard stick to make sure your pullys are aligned, and make sure the belt is fairly taught. good luck Bob
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Post by akansan on Feb 25, 2008 19:53:56 GMT -5
Well, after much discussion with my pet handyman (aka my Dad), I have a swamp cooler motor headed my way from New Mexico. He trusts me to install it properly, he trusted me to wire another one, but he doesn't trust me taking this one apart. Explain that one to me.  Actually, he and I both agree that the easiest solution is to just change out the motor. That way I don't have to worry about removing that pulley (neither the WD or the penetrating oil worked) or what may have caused the shaft to bend. So that gives me a week or so to clean it all up. Anyone want to help me remove the sludge by hand?  |
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Post by akansan on Mar 1, 2008 19:24:21 GMT -5
I figured if Capt. Bob can update his thread, I should update mine. I finally got the pulley off - I think it had something to do with the weather warming up out of the 20s. Took apart that thingy on the end, and yes, the metal was just a dust cap. I cleaned it up and reinstalled in the appropriate slot. Turned the motor on without the pulley - no wobble. None. Put the pulley back on - wobbles. Eh. So now, in addition to the motor headed my way, I have a pulley headed my way as well. I'll try the new pulley on the old motor first and see what happens. I don't know if the pulley is crooked or if the extra mass just lets me see the wobble I can't see without the pulley. |
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Post by deb193redux on Mar 1, 2008 21:02:24 GMT -5
I am worried that the extra mass is just lettin gyou see the wobble. Like you said. Unless the pulley was asymmetrical from the day it was made, the only way it could be giving the wobble is if the center bore hole had gotten reamed out into some sort of egg shape instead of circular. That seems less likely to happen.
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Post by catmandewe on Mar 1, 2008 21:32:25 GMT -5
I have had pulleys split down the center, that sure makes them wobble. That could be it. Be easy to tell with a different pulley on it. That would be good, then you would have a spare motor for the inevitable motor burnout. When mine burnt out I put a 2 hp motor on it, now I can stop the cut in the middle of the rock and restart it without moving it, if I need to check on it.
Tony
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