indychris
noticing nice landscape pebbles
Member since April 2008
Posts: 81
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Post by indychris on Apr 19, 2008 21:37:03 GMT -5
I have read several individual's comments about the WorkForce 7" tile saw, and am wondering how thick a slab can be cut with one? The price seems VERY reasonable, especially with a 1 year warranty, but is it pretty versatile? Does anyone use if for shaping beyond a simple slab cut? Thanks! I'm so new at this I haven't even earned my Greenhorn designation yet!   |
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Post by deb193redux on Apr 19, 2008 22:15:21 GMT -5
I assume you mean how big a rock can be slabbed. It will cut through material upto 1.25" thick, but I assume you mean can you cut an almost 3" nodule into slabs.
It depends on what you mean by slab and if you are willing to take some risk to saw and knuckle by rolling the stone.
Many of us have rolled the stone onto the blade to get a slab of just under 3" diameter. However the slab may not be perfectly even, and if you are close to 3", you will have a nub or bump in the center. If this is unacceptable, then the answer would be only just over an inch.
Since I further cut my slabbetts into shapes and generally do a bit of grinding on the shapes before I tumble, uneven and nubby does not bother me.
There is also some risk when the stone is not flat on bottom and slowly slid onto the blade. It might catch on the blade and ruin your blade. Or, it might lift the stone up off the table a bit and then catch and then slam it down and rap your knuckle really hard. Both have happened to me.
With practice, a steady hand, and a soft touch, it is less likely to happen.
But also consider it is a construction saw. It is loud, messy, and will sometimes chip edges along the cut. So, it is not recommended for precious material. You will need a tub and a shield for indoor use.
7" blades are cheaper because the market is larger. (Same logic for the saw.) But even in construction, the better (more diamond) smoother cutting blades cost more. But, still about only 70% of a lapidary blade. maybe only 60%. And it is nice to have the choice to buy some $10 blades and ruin them while learning.
I love my WF, but I also had a use for my 6" Rock Rascal for thinner cuts, and I also had a 10" trim/slab saw that I could put rocks in the vise and get perfect slabs.
For the money WF is a good tool. Buy a good blade when the original wears out. A cheap tile blade will disappoint you. But do not expect WF to be everything - you get what you pay for.
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Post by cpdad on Apr 19, 2008 23:52:19 GMT -5
i cut bigger stuff all the time....up to 3 1/4 inches.....some as thin as 1/16 of an inch by rolling the rock on the workforce....it takes a ton of practice....to cut something that thin and get it somewhat smooth...it will come with practice ;D when rolling a rock larger than 3 inches on the workforce.....you will have to do your cutting....then take something and whack your rock to break it lose as daniel said kinda.....there will be a somewhat of a large tit left in the middle.....then take your peice and use the blade to grind the tit off. i cannot cut thin peices with a thick replacement blade from home depot.....but i can cut thicker peices just fine. MK hot dog blade thin peice. click  replacement blade works just fine for peices 3/16 or thicker. click  kev. |
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Post by Bikerrandy on Apr 20, 2008 17:41:47 GMT -5
I use a Workforce to cut all of my shapes for my necklace pendants. I do the teardrops, hearts, and I've done a couple of crosses. All I do is cut the shapes from the slabs, and put them directly into the vibratory tumbler. I have a slab saw, this makes things alot easier.
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lowkey
off to a rocking start
Member since April 2008
Posts: 18
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Post by lowkey on Apr 25, 2008 13:32:39 GMT -5
well I had this nodule looking stone I found near by, I said let me try turning this and I came out with 2 nice slabs, and then I diced the rest for the tumbler. I noticed light coming through the stone after cutting the slices. This is why I want a camera, so I can show you these things.
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