Roan
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2008
Posts: 600
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Post by Roan on Aug 3, 2008 7:53:32 GMT -5
Can I run the Lot O dry? I have some amber and copal that I tumbled via regular Connrock recipe and it came out pretty good (pix coming), but I want to see if I can't get a better result with a dry walnut shell and red rouge mix.
Thanks
Eileen
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Post by connrock on Aug 3, 2008 18:01:47 GMT -5
Try it,,,, Make sure you have the proper weight in the barrel to get the right action. I just did this for someone but I can't remember who??? LOL This will pull down on the barrel to "fool" the tumbler when doing light loads!  connrock |
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Aug 3, 2008 18:42:29 GMT -5
Tom K. & Roan
In viber-tumbler it is best to fell the barrel to max load.
This way the traveling stone`s from top to bottom have more action on the cutting face of the material.
Jack
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Post by deb193redux on Aug 3, 2008 19:23:25 GMT -5
Weight is important. However the little bit of water you are leaving out is not likely to matter. Of more concernis that the walnut shell will not weight as much as rock or ceramic filler.
Try to put lots of filler and only as much walnut shell as you need.
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Post by connrock on Aug 4, 2008 7:54:28 GMT -5
Jack and Deb,
You're right about the barrel being full for the maximum action and that the weight of the absence of water not being a factor.
The Lot-O-Tumbler won't work right without enough weight in it and amber is VERY light so even if the barrel IS full and there's no water in it you STILL have a weight problem.
This is why I suggested using the bungee chords!
connrock
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Post by deb193redux on Aug 4, 2008 9:55:15 GMT -5
Well, there seems to be agreement here. Weight is important to get the maximum energy into the barrel, as well as to protect the motor designed to run with a 3-5lb load. (I thought it was understood that was why the bungee cords had been proposed).
Seems like bungee cords should help, but it might be difficult to know how much cord tension is needed. If you manage to simulate a 7-8 lb load this should not be a problem for 1 batch, but could be a problem over many loads.
If you have ceramic filler, you should also make sure it is polished. Set aside filler that has been in polish. This way it will not scratch the amber. In other words, once you are in an OK weight neighborhood, other factors become more critical, so just think through what you are doing. I think the load you are describing will work with a couple lbs of polished filler.
Weight is important, but not to the ounce or anything so precise. The spring is tuned to give max vibration at about 4.5lbs. But, I have run OK with just over 3lbs or rock and filler. Enough weight to protect the motor. It may have been a little less efficient than a 4.5lb load, but that just means you run a day longer. Unlike commercial operations where time is money, the home user can tolorate a batch that is a little less efficient.
Good luck!
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Roan
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2008
Posts: 600
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Post by Roan on Aug 4, 2008 10:22:25 GMT -5
Thanks guys! I have da bungee cords. I have 2 pounds of walnut I have 2 pounds of polished medium ceramic media I have 1 pound of polished small ceramic media Should be enough, I think. What I think will work with the bungees is to fill er' up, attach bungees loosely, and then let it rip. Press down lightly until I get "normal" movement and then tighten bungees accordingly. How does that sound? Also, small mental kick to self: do NOT mix mini citrine tumbles with mini amber tumbles. The shine I got on the amber was fantastic, BUT now I can't tell it from the citrine unless I "squeak" each one! ARGH! They're so small that you can't feel a weight difference, but the amber and copal have a "sticky" feel when you rub your fingers over it. I'm going to be here all day sorting citrine and amber/copal  Eileen ETA: OH! CRAP! DOH ME! Salt water! I have some marine mix here and amber/copal will FLOAT in salt water. Yay me for brilliance! ;D |
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Roan
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2008
Posts: 600
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Post by Roan on Aug 4, 2008 11:15:49 GMT -5
Man! Have you ever thought of something so bloody brilliant you were totally in the "ME! ME!" zone? Yah, I was stupid for mixing the citrine and amber, but DAMN am I smart about using salt water to separate them! Worked like a charm. I used a cup of my hubby's reef water and added two tablespoons of salt. Dumped everything in and all the amber and copal floated. Just like little plastic pellets! All I had to do was skim them off. Dang, me smart!!!! Okay, enough clever back-patting, Eileen. I've posted pictures of my pre-dry amber and copal batch in the amber/copal thread here: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/index.cgi?board=tottumb&action=display&thread=24258If anyone wants to read and see what I'm doing. Eileen |
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Aug 4, 2008 14:25:51 GMT -5
Your a smart Cookie Eileen, Your test is how you shop for real amber.
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Roan
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2008
Posts: 600
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Post by Roan on Aug 4, 2008 15:41:14 GMT -5
Your a smart Cookie Eileen, Your test is how you shop for real amber. Hah! You musta read one of my other posts ;D Copal is no problem for me, 'cause I know how it's supposed to smell when it burns. So the stuff I got was definitely copal. The amber -- okay, I bought 30 grams of rough amber from Amberica.com. First amber I'd ever purchased. When it got here I took a good look at it and it really did look like amber in matrix and some of it was "fiberous" -- like copal can be when it soaks into wood? Y'know what I mean? I tried burning a bit of it and it STUNK. Emailed the guy and he maintains that he picked the amber rough out himself and it was definitely amber. The site seems to be "reputable", so to give him the benefit of the doubt I tried a few more pieces. One of the pieces smelled very much like faint copal, with an "aftersmell". The others -- I'm still not 100% convinced, however the piece that had the fly thing in it looked real. The fly was covered with matrix and crap and didn't expose itself until after 48 hours in the 120 grit. There's only half a fly, too. Now, if you can tell me where I can get some rough genuine 100% amber, relatively cheap, I'm all ears. It doesn't have to have bugs or be grade "A" 'cause I'm just going to smash most of it up into teeny tiny pieces anyhow. Eileen |
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Aug 4, 2008 15:50:18 GMT -5
Alcohol test is good to soak over night and send it back to the dealer.
I may be 50 though rocks have been a part of my life for over 9/10th.
No Eileen i`m to new to this site to tread through every report someone has made,
Though it is good to know their is still smart thinkers that see out side the Geode.
I`ll check on the Amber For you.
Copol ( Cupol ) That is the material from Aust. That less then 30,000 Bp. ?
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Roan
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2008
Posts: 600
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Post by Roan on Aug 4, 2008 21:59:32 GMT -5
Alcohol test is good to soak over night and send it back to the dealer. Ooo, hadn't heard of this. Does it dissolve? What kind of alcohol? Will rubbing work? Wow. I'm almost as old as you but I'm a rock newbie Awww, thanks and thanks for the amber links! Copal is what amber is before it's amber It's the resin before the final "change". Its SG is lighter and it's not as hard nor is much of it as old as amber. Native Americans use copal as an incense -- so do I, for that matter I love the scent of copal. It's a kinda peppery/piney smell. Very distinct, but not over-powering. Eileen |
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Aug 4, 2008 22:17:03 GMT -5
Eileen the best Alcohol is denatured, you can find it in paint store. Yes the fake material well become very sticky from soaking in the bath of alcohol. try the rubbing alcohol it should work fine.
its the base material it is made of. i would try acetone to.
I collect Gem & mineral Magazine, some where in a very old edition i read where the Copol was sold as Amber, the material was out of Australia.
Frankincense ( Copol )
Bye Jack
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