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Post by creativeminded on Aug 3, 2008 22:53:09 GMT -5
Okay I have a question to all you cabbers out there. Below you will see several pictures of my antique saw/grinder/buffer combo. My question is if you could only pick 2-4 permenant grinding wheels what would you choose? Full set up without protective hoods.  Area for the grinding wheels.  Saw section.  Gear cover, I think.  Buffer end, that is still very supple leather on that wheel.  Grinding section with cover, holes in top for drip system.  Saw section covered. I really think the cover is a homemade job.  The tension for the belt is controled by the weight of the motor, and the rock feed is gravity fed with weight added to a rope. Any suggestions and help will be very useful. Tami |
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 3, 2008 23:46:54 GMT -5
That's a great old unit. It likely had a S/C 100 and 220 wheel and a split drum sander. The placement of the bearings won't allow an expando drum. You can use either 8" or 6"wheels. 6" cost less and allow more clearance at the bottom of the wheel. Typically diamond wheels are 1.5" wide and you'll want at least 1.5" space in between. More is aways better. Measure the available space allowing for washers like you have in the center on each side of each wheel. That will determine how many wheels you can have. If you want to cut smaller cabs only you can have more wheels closer together. To do large free forms you will need more room. You will need a water supply over each wheel as well.
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49er
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since February 2008
Posts: 753
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Post by 49er on Aug 4, 2008 0:49:08 GMT -5
I would go with a 80 and 200 grinding wheel then one or two 6 inch diameter drums for 400, 600, 800 and 1200 grit wet paper. Yes, it looks like a homemade cover for the saw. Good luck with your project.
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Aug 4, 2008 3:57:49 GMT -5
 I have left to right, 80, 100, 120. Grit diamond Galaxy wheel`s. The center wheel i made a clip for the water to clip it in front of the wheel with a splash guard |
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Post by akansan on Aug 4, 2008 6:25:04 GMT -5
Technically, all you would need is an 80, a 220, a 280-400 (personal preference here), and a 600 and the oxide on the end.
If there's a solution out there similar to the split drum that John mentioned (an exact span, maybe?), then I'd go with a 80, 220, and whatever that solution was. If there's not, then I'd try to squeeze in four and go through 600.
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Post by creativeminded on Aug 4, 2008 8:55:53 GMT -5
Lapidaryrough, it is so good to see someone has a unit just like mine that is up and running. Do you use a leather pad on the end, and if you do, do you dampen the leather and add the Cerum oxide to the leather?
Akansan, I have done a lot of searching for an exact span drum and I still have not found one. I found the wet sand paper for it, but no drum.
Tami
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Aug 4, 2008 9:45:52 GMT -5
Tami, Your search has ended, www.kingsleynorth.com/skshop/search_results2.php?catID=806 May i BE FRANK Or Jack with you, The drum your asking for is a piece of Junk ( exact span Drum By Lortone ) no please consider The Rayspan - Raytech Yes i do use the leather though i soak it in soapy water with just one drop of dish soap to wetten the water, it is best to spin dry after soaking, the cerium oxide well stay on the leather while soaking. i fine i get better polish with the leather very wet, i have lost some great cabs from dry pad grabbing the stone and bouncing it off the floor..... Yes My E-50 is in Mint Condition. I only buy the Industrial grade of lapidary machinery. The Hobbyist Grade wont last with me .... Though i don`t do Table Top Lapidary. That Me. Jack Cole in Oregon |
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Post by bobby1 on Aug 4, 2008 10:04:37 GMT -5
If you want to do larger cabs, keep your wheels as far apart as possible.
Bob
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 4, 2008 11:08:45 GMT -5
Get 80 and 220 diamond from jadecarver, 280 and 600 Nova wheels. You should be able to polish after that with oxide. I only use diamond and jump froma 220 Nova to a 600 Nova.
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