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Post by akansan on Nov 15, 2008 21:10:02 GMT -5
Okay Cab Gurus - I know this has come up before, and I haven't paid much attention as I just try to avoid nasty areas and if I can't, I either live with it or live without it. But I have two cabs that I really, really like. And the material has some ugly areas. It's mainly surface areas, so I'm hopeful. And I have a lot more of the material, so I really hope to find some solution. Here's a sample of the material (you might remember them): Now for the cabs: This first one is the one I'd really like to save. Technically I can just trim off the bottom right corner, but I like the shape and I'd lose a lot of material on the cab, with no guarantee the material under the top is solid. Bad Area Highlighted: Close Up of Bad Area: I'm not as attached to this second one, but I do like it. It's actually worse than the first one, so it might just have to be set aside: Close Up of Bad Area: So, what's the preferred solution? And if it's treated in this manner, how exactly do you explain it if you sell it (the whole seller must fully disclose treatments to stones...)?
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Post by akansan on Nov 15, 2008 21:16:56 GMT -5
Gotta also explain, the second one looks a lot worse because I didn't take it as far on the wheels before setting it aside until a solution presented itself...
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Post by Tony W on Nov 16, 2008 1:16:16 GMT -5
Well, I have had some success with super glue gel and reg. super glue. Sometimes I use epoxy but the super glue is faster in the beginning at least. If I'm building out a bad area on a bezel, or filling a big pit, I'll pack it full of the gel and maybe sand a few times and apply glue, etc. until I have a surface to work with, then I'll put on the reg. super glue to seal it good, if necessary. My biggest problems comes with the wheels pulling the glue back out. So I now only use a hard 3000 wheel with lots of water, to work it down... maybe, if I have to I'll use a 1200 hard wheel but lightly. A lot depends on the stone and pattern as to how well it blends in if it is a big fix. But if it is a stone I really want, I'll keep at it until I get it like I want. And when you get to the belts, and in my case leather pads, I have to go real light and quick as the heat will pull the glue too. Epoxy is a bit more resistant to the heat, but lightly is the best path to follow. And if the glue shines better than the rock you will have to work the rock a lot and that pulls the glue. so... I work the stone all the way to the shine (3000 belt, unless I get a good shine at 1200) and then patch it so I have a better chance of the shines matching when I go to 8 and 50,000. That's how I've been doing it, mostly with opals, but I expect others have better ways I guess you'd call it stabalizing and filling repairs when you disclose it. Tony
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Post by Woodyrock on Nov 16, 2008 2:37:07 GMT -5
Have a look at the thread in the Lapidary section on stabilizing material. The sodium silkicate if only allowed to dry is not waterproof, but dropping the pH by adding acid, and then heating it does make it nearly waterproof. As the silicate gels, and ten dries, it is forming a microcrystalline silica.....and LOL agate is a microcrystalline silica. This is not as easy, nor as quick as epoxy, but it is closer to the parent material. Woody
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,466
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Post by Sabre52 on Nov 16, 2008 8:03:24 GMT -5
I've tried several techniques like Superglue, Hotstuff, Opticon two part epoxy etc and had pretty good success with all of them on small cracks and deeper pits. Can't help you much with those areas of shallower pitting or roughness as most every time I've tried to repair those sort of areas, the filler seems to tear out of the rough area when I go back t the fine sanding wheels. The areas just do not seem deep enough to prevent the filler from peeling out like onion peeling. On deep pitting though, the thicker formula of hotstuff has worked great....Mel
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Post by texaswoodie on Nov 16, 2008 16:53:06 GMT -5
Glue. Let it cure for a week and don't get it hot. Works like a charm.
Curt
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Nov 16, 2008 18:07:26 GMT -5
Opticon if I have to.
And say it is stabilized.
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SirRoxalot
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2003
Posts: 790
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Post by SirRoxalot on Nov 17, 2008 15:15:18 GMT -5
Opticon or the equivalent epoxy, 333 I think, is the way to go. Pretty much industry standard. You can say it's been filled, treated, glued, stabilized, or whatever... it's not like jewelers are following the law on disclosing treatment lol.
SirRoxalot
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