ace
starting to shine!
Member since August 2008
Posts: 39
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Post by ace on Jan 1, 2009 14:39:44 GMT -5
I think the motor in my Lortone 45-C is about shot, just wondering how difficult it is to change out a motor?
Thanks
Randy
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chassroc
Cave Dweller 
Rocks are abundant when you have rocktumblinghobby pals
Member since January 2005
Posts: 3,586
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Post by chassroc on Jan 2, 2009 10:39:00 GMT -5
Ace, The first time is the trickiest, but not too hard if you are mechanically inclined; a little more difficult if you are not. Take a few detailed pictures with your digital camera's Macro Mode just in case you forget how everything gets reattached! I don't have a 45C but the diagram on Lortone's website www.lortone.com/pdf/33B_45C_Instructions_PartsList.pdf looks similar to the 33B which I am familiar with. After you remove the top and botton motor covers, there are a couple of nuts that hold the motor to the chassis to remove and the electric connection to undo. If things are cramped you may have to figure out how to remove or work around the pulley. When you reassemble be careful that you align the drive pulley and the motor pulley and that you do not overtighten the belt. csroc |
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Jan 2, 2009 23:44:39 GMT -5
Out of curiosity, what makes you think it's going bad. They're a simple motor to clean and lube.
Dr Joe
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ace
starting to shine!
Member since August 2008
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Post by ace on Jan 3, 2009 11:07:56 GMT -5
I bought the tumbler used from fleabay, and it had seen better days. I have replaced the bearings and axles recently. Since I started using it in Oct, I have had problems with the motor stalling. Most of the time it will go again with just a little nudge on the barrel. Then a couple of days later you may find it stalled again. In the past couple of weeks it has been stalled more than running and I have been afraid that the motor would overheat and cause a fire so I just unplugged it until I could figure out whats going on with it. Because it is used, and has steadily gotten worse, I am concerned the motor has gone bad. However it may need cleaning? When I changed the bearings, I had the motor out and wiped everything down. The area inside the motor area was covered in black oil residue and dirt. So its possible the motor shaft is just dirty and everything gummed up. If so, what is going to get it going again?
Thanks
Randy
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ace
starting to shine!
Member since August 2008
Posts: 39
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Post by ace on Jan 3, 2009 13:18:41 GMT -5
Had a few minutes to look at the tumbler. I pulled the motor out and gave it a shot of WD40 on the shaft of the motor on both ends. Plugged it in and its running again. So its probably just dirty. Like most everyone, I think WD40 has some uses that nothing else is better for, but this is probably not the best use. It was a last resort sort of thing and I will need something better to properly clean the gunk out of the motor. But for now its working.
Randy
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ejs
spending too much on rocks
Member since July 2008
Posts: 478
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Post by ejs on Jan 3, 2009 14:00:19 GMT -5
At the risk of appearing simple, are you sure that the belt is not too worn and is properly adjusted? A loose belt can cause many of the problems you are citing.
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ace
starting to shine!
Member since August 2008
Posts: 39
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Post by ace on Jan 3, 2009 15:40:38 GMT -5
I had wondered the same thing, and at times it seemed if I adjusted the tension on the belt things would improve, but only temporarily. Then, when it quit altogether, I completely loosened the motor and took the belt off the pulley, it still would not turn. That is why I thought the motor was worn out. But the shot of WD40 seemed to loosen up the gunk in the motor.
But I appreciate you asking the question, because too often it is something simple that gets overlooked when problems arise.
Randy
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drjo
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Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
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Post by drjo on Jan 3, 2009 18:35:25 GMT -5
See if the motor end caps (that contain the bushings) can be removed. Some are riveted on but most of these motor caps come off with 2 long bolts/nuts (usually the mounting bolts).
Hose the motor down (WD40 is fine) to clean off any gunk (belt residue, dust, dirt, rock sludge etc.) BEFORE removing the shaft from the bushings so you don't wash garbage into the bushings.
Take off the pulley and clean the shaft so the bushing will slide of easily. Take off the end cap the shaft with the pulley is on and pull the armature (center part of the motor) out, then remove the other end cap . You can use WD40 to clean the bearings but I prefer LPS as it is an oil whereas WD40 is not and can remove too much of the oil in the bushings. Use Q-tips to clean out the bushings.
Let dry for a day if you use WD40 as it will dilute the new lubricant.
Put several drops of 20w oil (3in1 machine oil is ok) in and around each bushing (with most of these motors there is felt material surrounding the bushing to act as an oil reserve so you want to soak that). Let it set for an hour.
Clean the motor shaft on each end well and lubricate with automotive bearing grease (if you don't have some surely you know someone who works on their cars), you just need enough to wipe the shaft ends with.
Reassemble, check to see it spins free, reinstall, adjust belt tension and tumble away.
If the motor is riveted together, wash down with LPS and lubricate each end with oil, letting each end soak with oil for an hour, wipe excess off and reassemble..
(if this scares you, let it be known that it took me longer to type this than it would to do it (10 minutes max, well maybe your second motor ;D).
Note: This motor style was originally designed for phonographs (notice I didn't say record players) an not originally intended for supply much torque, but but would hold a steady speed and could be made cheaply.
Dr Joe
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ace
starting to shine!
Member since August 2008
Posts: 39
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Post by ace on Mar 1, 2009 15:16:51 GMT -5
OK Dr. Joe
I need
:help:
The motor is the type with 2 screws and I took it apart, cleaned it, oiled and greased it per your instructions. I put it back together and it ran great, but noisily for 2 days, then locked up again. I took it apart again, repeated all the steps and put it back together and it would not run. What I discovered was it the armature (the fat part on the shaft??) was against the electromagnet part of the motor and could not move. I discovered that if I loosened the 2 screw holding it together and I moved the shaft around a certain way it would run. But no matter how I moved it around, you could still hear the armature making contact as it spun around. But when I tightened the screws back down, it went out of alignment and stopped again. I made sure the motor end caps that hold the bushings were aligned correctly. Also I tried turning the motor end caps 180 degrees to see if that changed anything, but it did not. I am stumped at what the problem is. Any ideas???
Thanks
Randy
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Post by LCARS on Mar 2, 2009 1:34:18 GMT -5
Sounds like the bushings are shot to me.
there's a two sided clutch plate holding each bushing which is not supposed to let the armature touch the laminations but if there's play in either the headstock or tailstock bushing it can allow it to rattle around and if it makes contact it stalls in a magnetic short circuit unless it's momentum carries it around enough to pass the "dead spot". Either way it's noisy and runs hot, just not good.
In most cases, if a motor is properly maintained it can run for years of continuous use but if it's neglected it will just tear itself apart eventually. I would say just replace the motor and start fresh. Remember to check it out every 3-months of running or after it's been in storage or unused for a while. It should be like a new tumbler again if it's already got new roller bushings.
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ace
starting to shine!
Member since August 2008
Posts: 39
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Post by ace on Aug 14, 2009 11:29:05 GMT -5
I appreciate all the help and advice I got on fixing the motor in my tumbler. I took it apart, cleaned it, lubed it, etc. When I did that, it started to sound worse. But I discovered by doing all that, is the bushings in the motor were shot.
Recently I ordered a new motor from the Rock Shed (and some Jasper also). It was not too difficult to change. The most difficult part was the little plastic thing that holds the power cord in place where it goes thru the housing. Getting that out took some work but putting it all back together was no problem. So hopefully I will soon have some pics to post of my progress.
Randy
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
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Post by drjo on Aug 15, 2009 10:44:19 GMT -5
Ace, sorry I lost this thread. Well atleast you tried. Glad to hear the new motor is in, and can't wait to see the next tumbles!  Dr Joe . |
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jpb007
off to a rocking start
Member since August 2009
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Post by jpb007 on Aug 29, 2009 23:27:37 GMT -5
Sounds like you've narrowed it down. Here's one other thing that may help you or others when a motor will not start. Motors have a kick switch that starts them turning. When you plug it in the voltage is routed through this switch to kick the motor over. Once the motor takes off, the centrifugal force removes the switch from the circuit. If you plug it in and it does not start turning, use your finger on the motor pulley if you can access it or probably can do the same by turning the barrel if the belt is in good condition. Once the motor starts turning, it will keep turning no problem until turned of. Hope this helps in any future motor problems.
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Nov 15, 2024 17:44:51 GMT -5
Nov 15, 2024 17:44:51 GMT -5
