nancyid
has rocks in the head
No stone goes unturned.
Member since January 2009
Posts: 563
|
Post by nancyid on Feb 8, 2009 20:03:47 GMT -5
I did it today, got a WF saw and I have been cutting up a storm ;D ;D ;D
questions:
1. When cutting slabs do you trim all sides first? Get rid of the outter crud and sort of square it up? 2. When cutting something REALLY hard, do I just let it go real slow? How much pressure is good/bad? 3. Is there a better blade than the one that came with it? I'm sure there is but what would you recommend? 4. How thick do you guys generally cut a slab? 5. Am I the only one that wears a raincoat while cutting? :cheesy:
|
|
SteveHolmes
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2009
Posts: 1,900
|
Post by SteveHolmes on Feb 8, 2009 20:32:15 GMT -5
Okay Nancy, I'll try to help. I actually bought a workforce a few weeks ago...when my 6" trim saw broke. I quickly realized it is going to be better for trimming slabs than cutting any nodules. #1. Depends on what shape you want to cab. You really want to cut straight lines and try not to curve the blade. #2. let the blade do the cutting. Do not force the rock through too quickly. Be patient. #3. That blade that came with the WF is really THICK! Luckily I had an extra blade with a very thin kerf. I was given the blade from a friend....and I know he bought it from Daniel Lopaki. I think the thinner the blade the better. #4. I try to cut a slab about 1/4". #5. Nope...I wear a green apron. That WF sprays plenty of Water. The WF is alright....but I'm glad that I was able to fix my 6" trim saw. I'd go CRAZY if I wasn't able to cut nodules. Hope I helped. Steve
|
|
|
Post by Michael John on Feb 8, 2009 20:51:20 GMT -5
Steve, hang on to that WF blade! Anytime you can, USE it! It'll take more abuse than a red-headed step child, for a LONG time! I WISH they'd sell those blades ... mine FINALLY bit the dust and I'm bumbed that the same blade isn't available to replace it.
|
|
nancyid
has rocks in the head
No stone goes unturned.
Member since January 2009
Posts: 563
|
Post by nancyid on Feb 8, 2009 21:06:52 GMT -5
Thanks Steve, that does help. Another question How does one know which way to cut to show the best pattern if there is one? Nancy
|
|
|
Post by akansan on Feb 8, 2009 21:35:17 GMT -5
A couple of things - if the rock is climbing the blade, you're pushing too hard. The WF blade loses a lot of material, but the thicker kerf allows the blade to take a lot more of abuse that handfeeding supplies. It's less likely to bend because it's sturdier. I actually prefer to cut my nodules on the WF. One solution if you don't want to lose material is to keep two blades handy - one thin kerfed for expensive material, and one thick kerfed for when you need a sturdier blade. I also cut from behind rather than from in front. The spray is greatly reduced that way, and I feel I have more control of the cut by pulling the rock instead of pushing. It's a personal preference thing. When I first got it, I actually did the garbage bag routine, as I didn't have a raincoat! When I cut slabbettes, I generally cut 3/8" - but these are for a grinder. When I was cutting for my rotary tumbler, I cut a bit thicker. When I cut slabbettes, I generally cut a larger end cut and then continue. I don't square all ends first. Sometimes I will square the end that rests on the machine, allowing for a more even cut. I think that covers it!
|
|
|
Post by parfive on Feb 8, 2009 21:43:38 GMT -5
“I WISH they'd sell those blades”People have been sayin’ that for years. Guess nobody ever looks in the instruction manual. 25 bucks. www.chervonpowertools.com/
|
|
docharber
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2008
Posts: 716
|
Post by docharber on Feb 9, 2009 0:39:32 GMT -5
Thanks! I really did like the WF blade and I just ordered one. I'll keep buying new ones until I figure out why I keep trashing them. Or until I'm bankrupt.
Mark H.
|
|
|
Post by parfive on Feb 9, 2009 1:26:42 GMT -5
Just . . . . . one ? ;D
|
|
|
Post by Michael John on Feb 9, 2009 4:24:13 GMT -5
SWEET! The first one lasted me SO long and took SO much abuse that I wouldn't see any reason to order more than one. YMMV
|
|
|
Post by Michael John on Feb 9, 2009 4:51:42 GMT -5
"When cutting slabs do you trim all sides first? Get rid of the outter crud and sort of square it up?"
I don't. I leave as much there as possible for freeforming.
"When cutting something REALLY hard, do I just let it go real slow? How much pressure is good/bad?"
The harder the material is, the more that pressure will wear the blade. If you have materials to cut which are different hardnesses, cut from soft to hard, so that you get as much cutting done as you can before you possibly trash the blade. If you have real hard material that's not likely to be real spectacular once it's cut, you may want to forget about cutting it at all ... will the slabs be worth the cost of a new blade? See what I mean?
"Is there a better blade than the one that came with it? I'm sure there is but what would you recommend?"
The WF blade is awesome for bulk cutting. It'll take a lot of abuse and last a long time. However, if you're cutting expensive, rare, unique, or limited-availabilty material, the kerf of the WF blade will waste a lot of material, and it doesn't give the best clean cuts, so you really should use a thinner blade.
"How thick do you guys generally cut a slab?"
The "standard" is 1/4". If you want to see through some material better, you may want to cut thinner. If the material's generally a bit fragile, or you need the finished piece to be extra sturdy, or you want to make a high-domed cab, you want to make the slab thicker. Sometimes, the thickness of slabs just depends where the slabs will cut best with your rough. For selling, I sometimes like to cut a stone into a variety of slab thicknesses, for peoples' varying needs.
"Am I the only one that wears a raincoat while cutting?"
Nope, but I never have. If you're standing in the safest places for cutting, you'll generally stay the dryest, too. In a long slabbing session, I just change t-shirts when they get too wet to be comfortable.
|
|
nancyid
has rocks in the head
No stone goes unturned.
Member since January 2009
Posts: 563
|
Post by nancyid on Feb 9, 2009 10:41:18 GMT -5
You all have been a great help in helping me understand the process better. Thank you! One question that wasn't answered though - when I have a piece of agate that I know will have some sort of banding or pattern in it, but the banding isn't real obvious on the outside, how do I determine the best side to cut from? Cut once from say the long side, then maybe a cut from the shorter side and see which is best. Seems like a dumb question even to me, lol.
|
|
|
Post by Michael John on Feb 9, 2009 12:02:14 GMT -5
Deciding which direction to cut a stone can be tricky. Even if you have a good view of the entire outside of the stone, you can't be sure about the inside. If you have trouble deciding which way to cut, you can shave a little off a few areas to give you a little better look before deciding. There's also the old advice, "Let the rock tell you how it wants to be cut" ... don't laugh, there's some truth to that!
|
|