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Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Feb 18, 2009 4:21:31 GMT -5
Hi, I am on trying my hand at a Opal duplicate & triplicate and wondering what type of bonding others use ?
Obsidian to Opal and Crystal
Thanks
Jack Yorkshire UK
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Post by bobby1 on Feb 18, 2009 10:55:22 GMT -5
I always use Epoxy 330 because it is a crystal clear adhesive. It also has a long set up time so it allows you enough working time to do what is necessary to get all of the bubbles out of the mixed adhesive. 5 minute epoxy is a disaster because it starts setting before you can get the bubbles out. Bob
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mossyrockhound
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2011
Posts: 1,278
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Post by mossyrockhound on Feb 18, 2009 12:06:46 GMT -5
I have also used Epoxy 330 for the same reasons Bob gives. Make sure you minimize how many bubbles you create when you mix your epoxy (mix slowly). This is because you will be able to see the bubbles through the quartz crystal cap. I mix my epoxy on a small piece of old window glass, near the edge. Then when I put it on the stone, I kind of "slide" the epoxy off the glass onto the opal. Then I "slide" the quartz cap onto the opal and look for bubbles. Work out any bubbles by sliding the cap and opal back and forth against each other. Then I apply slight pressure to the triplet until it is dry. As far as the pressure goes, you need to be careful to not crack the opal by applying too much. The first few opal triplets I made I used a carpenters clamp to apply the pressure to the triplet and when everything dried I saw cracks in the opal - very frustrating! The right amount of pressure would be something like a medium-size dictionary layed on the triplet. Sorry Jack, but I'm afraid I gave you more information than you asked for. Garry
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Feb 18, 2009 12:12:34 GMT -5
Maybe you did, Garry, but I learned from it! :-)
Chuck
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Post by bobby1 on Feb 18, 2009 17:43:43 GMT -5
I spread the epoxy on both surfaces slowly and carefully with a flat toothpick so as to not introduce any bubbles. Then I place the two pieces together at one side and close them together like a hinge action. This minimizes trapping any bubbles as well as forcing any bubbles and the excess adhesive to one side and out of the joined surfaces. I then apply moderate pressure on the pieces with my thumb and forefinger and slide them slightly against each other to continue squeezing out any excess adhesive. When I start feeling a slight drag where the pieces are rubbing on each other I quit the sliding action. I then place the sandwich under a 100 watt light bulb in a gooseneck light fixture to cure. I don't apply any weights or other items to the curing piece. By squeezing nearly all of the adhesive out there is no tendency for them to slide around during the curing process. Bob
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49er
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since February 2008
Posts: 753
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Post by 49er on Feb 18, 2009 21:27:38 GMT -5
Cannot beat 330 epoxy.
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Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Feb 19, 2009 3:54:30 GMT -5
Hi Bob & Garry,
Many thanks as Chuck says thanks for all the extra advice , I DO appreciate that very much
when your starting out on a new adventure extra information is a bonus
Im sure you have saved me a lot of time and heart ack giving me the correct procedure to assemble the triplicate
thanks
Jack Yorkshire UK
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