fisherman510
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2008
Posts: 113
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Post by fisherman510 on Mar 17, 2009 14:18:54 GMT -5
I am trying to encrease my output a little, so I got a UV-10 to run my 120-220 grit stage. I have been using one for pre polish and polish. Everything is doing well. I use enough polish to get a good coat on the stones, adding two or three squirts of water three or four times a day. I started a good full batch of rocks on Sunday with about 6 tablespoons of grit. Everything was going pretty good. Got up on morning and the mix was to dry, but a little water fixed that. Today at lunch, it was looking a little sluggish so I added a coupe of squirts and all of a sudden way to much water. I dumped the rocks, washed out the bowl, and lightly rinsed the rocks, removing some of the slurry. Put it back together and off we go. My question is, is the second stage just more problemactic than pre polish and polish.
Bob
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Post by NatureNut on Mar 17, 2009 14:35:48 GMT -5
Hi Bob, In my experience, not more problematic, the 220 grit stage will do some grinding, and therefore the slurry can get thick. I run two stints of two days each of 220, rinsing them completely between. I find that I get that thick slurry with the softer rocks. The second stint usually runs better. What type of rock are you running? Any idea of hardness?
Also, I find that when I haven't kept up with my sprays of water (I use a spray bottle and I'm guessing you do too), I get the dry stuff too. Many times, I've oversprayed to rehydrate and that caused what you're experiencing. I've gotten more patient and just done two sprays and watched it for a few minutes, giving the water a chance to work in, then another squirt or two, and watched. The caked stuff around the center, sides and bottom usually work free in a few minutes.
Oh yeah, to answer your question, yes and no. LOL. It requires more watching than the polish and prepolish. Keeping up with squirts until the slurry gets going can be an attention hog. In the prepolish and polish stages, again depending on what you're running, adding water won't be as much as a hassle, but having enough cushion can be. 220 makes a thicker slurry and has more built-in cushion. Prepolish and polish run thinner so there's less cushion, but needs less additional water added along the way.
BTW, Don't know if it matters, I use 8 Tblsp of 220 in my UV-10. Congrats on your new UV-10, you're gonna love it. Hope this helps.
Jo
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Mar 17, 2009 17:03:32 GMT -5
Yes, the 120/220 stage is considered the "coarse" grind in a vibe, so it does create a lot more slurry than later stages. I'm a lot less exact with my UV-18 than either of you. I pour water in a little at a time until things loosen up. I pour some in, watch it, and pour a little more, etc. until I'm happy with the motion and the sound.
But yes, it does require a lot more attention in the first stage. I add water 2-3 times a day. I run 48 hours in 120/220, 24 for everything else.
There is definitely a learning curve, but you'll get it fairly quickly.
I'm sure Randy will have something to say.
Chuck
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MikeS
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2009
Posts: 1,081
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Post by MikeS on Mar 17, 2009 20:39:03 GMT -5
I suppose it depends on the type of vibe also...I find the 110/220 to be more of a pain in the rear in my Lot-O, I almost always do that stage in the rotory. The Lot-O doesn't seem to work all that well with that coarse of a grit, if the mix is too wet all the grit ends up at the bottom, and if it is too dry all the grit just gums up on the lower sides. I actually get faster results in my rotory with that grit....
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dscratch
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since June 2008
Posts: 214
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Post by dscratch on Mar 21, 2009 4:44:51 GMT -5
I've had problems with the first and second stages also. Keeping an eye on the stones more often seems to help me. Someone told me to add a drop of dish soap, but I haven't tried it yet.
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Post by NatureNut on Mar 21, 2009 19:33:06 GMT -5
Or, you can add a pinch of borax... Fran style.
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