Post by Deleted on Jul 30, 2009 16:01:12 GMT -5
Last Modified 12 May 10.
My Ancient Rotary Tumbler Recipes:
From my notes 1973 - 1983 on 3lb of wet stones (not 3lb total max load).
Grit = Silicon Carbide used until 1975 & White Aluminum Oxide since 1975, now i am back to SiC.
Polish = Cerium oxide (Cer-Ox), Chromium Oxide (Chr-Ox), Linde-A (0.3 Micron brown Aluminum Oxide (Alu-Ox)),
Tin oxide (Tin-Ox), White (Alu-Ox_0.3 Micron).
Burnish = Borax powder, Dreft soap, Ivory soap, even clothes washing powders.
Burnish water level = 60g (2.11oz) - 90g (3.17oz).
Note: Borax powder is toxic & can be used as a weed killer.
Water i do not know if there is a difference between hard & soft water at the current time,
but since i am in Scotland, UK, which is only a soft water region, maybe more water is required
for harder water areas, but i am not sure.
Notes:
1st - 4th = Grinding stages (a fresh load).
F = Fixed grade SiC or Alu-Ox grit.
Recharge: = A top-up of grit & water up to 2 recharges may be used before cleaning
out & starting a fresh load with the same F grade.
Water (soft) = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 15g, (0.52oz).
The 4th grind may be skipped if it is opaque stones, but for both semi & fully translucent you should not skip this stage.
Moh's 8.0 - 8.5
Water level = 60g (2.11oz).
1st F80 = 100g (3.52oz); Recharge: 90g (3.17oz).
2nd F220 = 90g (3.17oz); Recharge: 80g (2.82oz).
3rd F400 = 80g (2.82oz); Recharge: 70g (2.46oz).
4th F600 = 70g (2.46oz); Recharge: 60g (2.11oz).
Estimated maximum time that grit will last = 3 days so reload or recharge every 4 days.
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Moh's 7.0 - 7.5
1st F80 = 60g (2.11oz); Recharge: 50g (1.76oz).
2nd F220 = 50g (1.76oz); Recharge: 45g (1.58oz).
3rd F400 = 45g (1.58oz); Recharge: 40g (1.41oz).
4th F600 = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 35g (1.23oz).
Note: Do not Skip the 4th grind for all Quartz varieties including opaque stones.
Estimated maximum time that grit will last = 4 days so reload or recharge every 5 days.
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Moh's 6.0 - 6.5
1st F80 = 50g (1.76oz); Recharge: 45g (1.58oz).
2nd F220 = 45g (1.58oz); Recharge: 40g (1.41oz).
3rd F400 = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 35g (1.23oz).
4th F600 = 35g (1.23oz); Recharge: 30g, (1.05oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Moh's 5.0 - 5.5
1st F80 = 45g (1.58oz); Recharge: 40g (1.41oz).
2nd F220 = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 35g (1.23oz).
3rd F400 = 35g (1.23oz); Recharge: 30g, (1.05oz).
4th F600 = 30g, (1.05oz); Recharge: 25g, (0.88oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Moh's 4.0 - 4.5
1st F220 = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 35g (1.23oz).
2nd F400 = 35g (1.23oz); Recharge: 30g, (1.05oz).
3rd F600 = 30g, (1.05oz); Recharge: 25g, (0.88oz).
4th F1000 = 25g, (0.88oz); Recharge: 20g (0.70oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g, (0.17oz).
Note: For stones below Moh's 4.0, there is no recharge & you will have to prematurely terminate
each stage as the grit will continue to cut, when you feel the stones are ready for the next stage.
Moh's 3.0 - 3.5
1st F220 = 30g (1.05oz).
2nd F400 = 25g (0.88oz).
3rd F600 = 20g (0.70oz).
4th F1000 = 15g (0.52oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g, (0.17oz).
Moh's 1.5 - 2.5
1st F400 = 20g (0.70oz).
2nd F600 = 15g (0.52oz).
3rd F1000 = 10g (0.35oz).
4th F1500 = 5g (0.17oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Hardness:
Hardness is a very important test especially for lapidarist, but the common error that most
lapidarist's make they only scratch test the stone once, that is fine if the stone is the wholly
the same color & texture.
The problem comes when the stones are multi-colored & or multi-textured, if you do
not scratch test each and every different color & texture as it can otherwise lead to a
massive loss of mass & or serious under-cutting, it may be impossible to test all
colors & textures, but please do try!
What you are looking for is not the hardest material, but the softest material then split your stones
in to different piles with different hardnesses, but please note both the hardest & softest hardnesses.
The softest material = the recipe to start with.
The hardest material = when you should recharge the grit.
Occasionally it may be necessary to re-test the hardness again as somtimes there may be softer
or harder material just below the surface, that is normally exposed by the 1st or 2nd grind.
When you have got enough stones of the same Moh's hardness to tumble or no more stones
to test add the the other batches to different buckets with a lid & label both the bucket & lid
with both the hardest & softest hardnesses of the stones it contains.
The 2nd problem is the amount of grit & the F grade used, also using mixed F grades is a
poor choice & can lead to under-cutting.
For example: pure Chrysacolla (Gold solder) is normally between Moh's 2.0 - 3.0, however
it may also contain a little Quartz which is Moh's 7.0.
Members from North America please note that fixed F grades are cheaper than mixed
grades here in the UK, the exact opposite is true in North America.
There is 2 reasons why i am not using table or tea spoons as for the measurements.
1: I have 3 different sets of spoons at home & get 3 different weights from 12g (0.42oz), 15g (0.52oz) & 18g (0.63oz).
2: With the 15g (0.52oz) spoon, 1 level tablespoon of water = 15g (0.52oz) the same level
tablespoon of Silicon Carbide (SiC) F80 = 20g (0.70oz), similarly i would have the same
issue with other grades of grits & polishes.
Burnish:
A 24 hour burnish can help remove the excess live matter & or grit or polish in pits & cracks
& brighten up the general appearance of the stones.
I personally do a 24 hour burnish with Borax powder before & after each & every stage.
Polish:
Polish you do not use a whole can of polish in one go to polish your shoes, boots, furniture
& or car, so why waste so much polish on a few pounds of stones.
I still remember the slogan on the Linde-A 1oz pack, "A little goes a long, long, long way".
My mentor "Jack" often used just 5g (0.17oz) of Lindi-A to polish over 200lbs of Quartz or Topaz
stones, "Jack" accended in 1981 aged 95 & had worked in the stonemason business for 75 years.
Cerium Oxide (Cer-Ox) pink = 5g (0.17oz), enough to do at least 30lbs of stones; Cer-Ox
is not a general purpose polish as lapidary supplier's would make you believe, in fact the
only stone i know that Cer-Ox polishes to a high gloss sheen quickly is Unakite.
Cer-Ox primary function is to polish Glass & plastics that are used for optical lenses (spectacles,
telescopes, microscopes & so on), i personally have never used it myself due to the enhanced
safety handling precautions also Cer-Ox of the 1960's was mixed with Thorium & that was
radioactive on the Alpha wavelength, but Cer-Ox of today is 100% of pure Cerium.
Super Cerium Oxide (Cer-Ox) white = 5g (0.17oz), enough to do 60lbs of stones.
Chromium Oxide (Chr-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz), Only for green stones as it stains stones green; enough
to do 30lbs of stones.
Tin Oxide (Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz), enough to do 30lbs of stones.
Tin-Ox is a genral purpose
polish that can polish almost all stones.
Prior to 1979 there was only one brand of (Alu-Ox) polish in the UK & it was the Linde brand,
Linde-A (0.3 micron), Linde-B (0.5 micron), Linde-C (1 micron), Linde-D (3 micron), Linde-E (5 micron).
Linde-A (0.3 micron Brown Alu-Ox) = 5g, (0.17oz), enough to do 60lbs of stones, used until 1981.
Alu-Ox is a genral purpose polish that can polish almost all stones.
White Alu-Ox (0.3 micron) = 5g (0.17oz), enough to do 60lbs of stones, used between 1979-83.
How to extend the polish
1: Tumble with 5g of polish for 7 days:
2: Reclaim & store in sealed container the excess polish & water
3a: The barrel can do 1 or 2 complete loads, just add fresh water & 100% unpolished stones.
3b: Divide the stones by 50% & add to a clean barrel with 50% unpolished stones, same with
other 50% re-polish for 7 days, then those stones can be moved on to the next stage or burnish.
4: Recharge barrel with the reclaimed polish water & top-up the water & add 100%
unpolished stones, then go to back to 1:
Note: You can filter the reclaimed polish water with Nylons (USA) or Stockings or tights (UK),
i tend to stick my finger in reclaimed polish mix to feel for any sharp or jagged bits, if found
filter it, otherwise bung it in the next load!
Grit usage for Moh's 7.0 - 7.5 (Quartz & Agate) wishu = what i should have used.
Already done.
F80 = 13 x 80g = 1040g (36.68oz) wishu = 780g (27.51oz)
F220 = 4 x 70g = 280g (9.87oz) wishu = 200g (7.05oz)
After burnishing for 24 hours i found a few pits in a few stones that will be stabilised with
polyurethane wood varnish later today.
Yet to do.
F220 = 2 x 50g = 100g (3.52oz)
F400 = 3 x 45g = 90g (4.76oz)
F600 = 2 x 40g = 80g (2.82oz) ; Last charge run for 9 days instead of the usual 5 days.
To Be Continued.
--
I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens sometimes come
for a visit & about 4 miles west from that monstrosity & 7 miles west of this new monstrosity!
Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum,
3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes,
5#: Aussie Lapidary Forum: Rock Tumbling Guide!
My Ancient Rotary Tumbler Recipes:
From my notes 1973 - 1983 on 3lb of wet stones (not 3lb total max load).
Grit = Silicon Carbide used until 1975 & White Aluminum Oxide since 1975, now i am back to SiC.
Polish = Cerium oxide (Cer-Ox), Chromium Oxide (Chr-Ox), Linde-A (0.3 Micron brown Aluminum Oxide (Alu-Ox)),
Tin oxide (Tin-Ox), White (Alu-Ox_0.3 Micron).
Burnish = Borax powder, Dreft soap, Ivory soap, even clothes washing powders.
Burnish water level = 60g (2.11oz) - 90g (3.17oz).
Note: Borax powder is toxic & can be used as a weed killer.
Water i do not know if there is a difference between hard & soft water at the current time,
but since i am in Scotland, UK, which is only a soft water region, maybe more water is required
for harder water areas, but i am not sure.
Notes:
1st - 4th = Grinding stages (a fresh load).
F = Fixed grade SiC or Alu-Ox grit.
Recharge: = A top-up of grit & water up to 2 recharges may be used before cleaning
out & starting a fresh load with the same F grade.
Water (soft) = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 15g, (0.52oz).
The 4th grind may be skipped if it is opaque stones, but for both semi & fully translucent you should not skip this stage.
Moh's 8.0 - 8.5
Water level = 60g (2.11oz).
1st F80 = 100g (3.52oz); Recharge: 90g (3.17oz).
2nd F220 = 90g (3.17oz); Recharge: 80g (2.82oz).
3rd F400 = 80g (2.82oz); Recharge: 70g (2.46oz).
4th F600 = 70g (2.46oz); Recharge: 60g (2.11oz).
Estimated maximum time that grit will last = 3 days so reload or recharge every 4 days.
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Moh's 7.0 - 7.5
1st F80 = 60g (2.11oz); Recharge: 50g (1.76oz).
2nd F220 = 50g (1.76oz); Recharge: 45g (1.58oz).
3rd F400 = 45g (1.58oz); Recharge: 40g (1.41oz).
4th F600 = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 35g (1.23oz).
Note: Do not Skip the 4th grind for all Quartz varieties including opaque stones.
Estimated maximum time that grit will last = 4 days so reload or recharge every 5 days.
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Moh's 6.0 - 6.5
1st F80 = 50g (1.76oz); Recharge: 45g (1.58oz).
2nd F220 = 45g (1.58oz); Recharge: 40g (1.41oz).
3rd F400 = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 35g (1.23oz).
4th F600 = 35g (1.23oz); Recharge: 30g, (1.05oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Moh's 5.0 - 5.5
1st F80 = 45g (1.58oz); Recharge: 40g (1.41oz).
2nd F220 = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 35g (1.23oz).
3rd F400 = 35g (1.23oz); Recharge: 30g, (1.05oz).
4th F600 = 30g, (1.05oz); Recharge: 25g, (0.88oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Moh's 4.0 - 4.5
1st F220 = 40g (1.41oz); Recharge: 35g (1.23oz).
2nd F400 = 35g (1.23oz); Recharge: 30g, (1.05oz).
3rd F600 = 30g, (1.05oz); Recharge: 25g, (0.88oz).
4th F1000 = 25g, (0.88oz); Recharge: 20g (0.70oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox, Cer-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g, (0.17oz).
Note: For stones below Moh's 4.0, there is no recharge & you will have to prematurely terminate
each stage as the grit will continue to cut, when you feel the stones are ready for the next stage.
Moh's 3.0 - 3.5
1st F220 = 30g (1.05oz).
2nd F400 = 25g (0.88oz).
3rd F600 = 20g (0.70oz).
4th F1000 = 15g (0.52oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g, (0.17oz).
Moh's 1.5 - 2.5
1st F400 = 20g (0.70oz).
2nd F600 = 15g (0.52oz).
3rd F1000 = 10g (0.35oz).
4th F1500 = 5g (0.17oz).
Polish (Alu-Ox or Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz).
Hardness:
Hardness is a very important test especially for lapidarist, but the common error that most
lapidarist's make they only scratch test the stone once, that is fine if the stone is the wholly
the same color & texture.
The problem comes when the stones are multi-colored & or multi-textured, if you do
not scratch test each and every different color & texture as it can otherwise lead to a
massive loss of mass & or serious under-cutting, it may be impossible to test all
colors & textures, but please do try!
What you are looking for is not the hardest material, but the softest material then split your stones
in to different piles with different hardnesses, but please note both the hardest & softest hardnesses.
The softest material = the recipe to start with.
The hardest material = when you should recharge the grit.
Occasionally it may be necessary to re-test the hardness again as somtimes there may be softer
or harder material just below the surface, that is normally exposed by the 1st or 2nd grind.
When you have got enough stones of the same Moh's hardness to tumble or no more stones
to test add the the other batches to different buckets with a lid & label both the bucket & lid
with both the hardest & softest hardnesses of the stones it contains.
The 2nd problem is the amount of grit & the F grade used, also using mixed F grades is a
poor choice & can lead to under-cutting.
For example: pure Chrysacolla (Gold solder) is normally between Moh's 2.0 - 3.0, however
it may also contain a little Quartz which is Moh's 7.0.
Members from North America please note that fixed F grades are cheaper than mixed
grades here in the UK, the exact opposite is true in North America.
There is 2 reasons why i am not using table or tea spoons as for the measurements.
1: I have 3 different sets of spoons at home & get 3 different weights from 12g (0.42oz), 15g (0.52oz) & 18g (0.63oz).
2: With the 15g (0.52oz) spoon, 1 level tablespoon of water = 15g (0.52oz) the same level
tablespoon of Silicon Carbide (SiC) F80 = 20g (0.70oz), similarly i would have the same
issue with other grades of grits & polishes.
Burnish:
A 24 hour burnish can help remove the excess live matter & or grit or polish in pits & cracks
& brighten up the general appearance of the stones.
I personally do a 24 hour burnish with Borax powder before & after each & every stage.
Polish:
Polish you do not use a whole can of polish in one go to polish your shoes, boots, furniture
& or car, so why waste so much polish on a few pounds of stones.
I still remember the slogan on the Linde-A 1oz pack, "A little goes a long, long, long way".
My mentor "Jack" often used just 5g (0.17oz) of Lindi-A to polish over 200lbs of Quartz or Topaz
stones, "Jack" accended in 1981 aged 95 & had worked in the stonemason business for 75 years.
Cerium Oxide (Cer-Ox) pink = 5g (0.17oz), enough to do at least 30lbs of stones; Cer-Ox
is not a general purpose polish as lapidary supplier's would make you believe, in fact the
only stone i know that Cer-Ox polishes to a high gloss sheen quickly is Unakite.
Cer-Ox primary function is to polish Glass & plastics that are used for optical lenses (spectacles,
telescopes, microscopes & so on), i personally have never used it myself due to the enhanced
safety handling precautions also Cer-Ox of the 1960's was mixed with Thorium & that was
radioactive on the Alpha wavelength, but Cer-Ox of today is 100% of pure Cerium.
Super Cerium Oxide (Cer-Ox) white = 5g (0.17oz), enough to do 60lbs of stones.
Chromium Oxide (Chr-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz), Only for green stones as it stains stones green; enough
to do 30lbs of stones.
Tin Oxide (Tin-Ox) = 5g (0.17oz), enough to do 30lbs of stones.
Tin-Ox is a genral purpose
polish that can polish almost all stones.
Prior to 1979 there was only one brand of (Alu-Ox) polish in the UK & it was the Linde brand,
Linde-A (0.3 micron), Linde-B (0.5 micron), Linde-C (1 micron), Linde-D (3 micron), Linde-E (5 micron).
Linde-A (0.3 micron Brown Alu-Ox) = 5g, (0.17oz), enough to do 60lbs of stones, used until 1981.
Alu-Ox is a genral purpose polish that can polish almost all stones.
White Alu-Ox (0.3 micron) = 5g (0.17oz), enough to do 60lbs of stones, used between 1979-83.
How to extend the polish
1: Tumble with 5g of polish for 7 days:
2: Reclaim & store in sealed container the excess polish & water
3a: The barrel can do 1 or 2 complete loads, just add fresh water & 100% unpolished stones.
3b: Divide the stones by 50% & add to a clean barrel with 50% unpolished stones, same with
other 50% re-polish for 7 days, then those stones can be moved on to the next stage or burnish.
4: Recharge barrel with the reclaimed polish water & top-up the water & add 100%
unpolished stones, then go to back to 1:
Note: You can filter the reclaimed polish water with Nylons (USA) or Stockings or tights (UK),
i tend to stick my finger in reclaimed polish mix to feel for any sharp or jagged bits, if found
filter it, otherwise bung it in the next load!
Grit usage for Moh's 7.0 - 7.5 (Quartz & Agate) wishu = what i should have used.
Already done.
F80 = 13 x 80g = 1040g (36.68oz) wishu = 780g (27.51oz)
F220 = 4 x 70g = 280g (9.87oz) wishu = 200g (7.05oz)
After burnishing for 24 hours i found a few pits in a few stones that will be stabilised with
polyurethane wood varnish later today.
Yet to do.
F220 = 2 x 50g = 100g (3.52oz)
F400 = 3 x 45g = 90g (4.76oz)
F600 = 2 x 40g = 80g (2.82oz) ; Last charge run for 9 days instead of the usual 5 days.
To Be Continued.
--
I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens sometimes come
for a visit & about 4 miles west from that monstrosity & 7 miles west of this new monstrosity!
Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum,
3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes,
5#: Aussie Lapidary Forum: Rock Tumbling Guide!
... to the New Guys from The ChatBox V.2 Crew