quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,352
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Post by quartz on Jan 26, 2015 14:34:02 GMT -5
Nice looking start on a project you have there. A couple sugggestions: I've never seen a saw with a 3L [~3/8" wide] drive belt, and can't tell from the pic. Measure across the top, outer, edges of the pulley. If it's real close to 3/8" you are O.K., if real close to 1/2", you need a 4L ,or an A [1/2" wide] belt. The 350 means 35" long. The length can vary depending on how you mount the motor. Best to mount the motor, then measure for belt length necessary. Move the splash guard on the front of the saw table to the inside of the table edge, that way captured drippings will run back into the tub, instead in your lap. If you use that cutoff can for a reservoir, find something to put over and protect you from all those sharp edges, a good hardware store can help with that.
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Post by Peruano on Jan 26, 2015 19:15:35 GMT -5
Roxgirl, I'd say you have a nifty saw. Its probably Canadian or otherwise one of the Queen's colonies if it uses a 7" blade instead of a 6". With the table that lifts up, it will be easy to clean out the lubricant (probably lubricant water combination) every day and clean your saw against rust, rock detritus etc. All the lubricant stays internal and thus does not contact the belt or pulley. Raytech makes a saw like that in 6" and 10" but theirs is distinct and not quite as accessible to the bottom tray as yours. A drawback to the Raytech is when your tray gets lost or damaged, but it looks like it will be easier to improvise one for your saw. I'd improvise a better tray when you get a chance - plastic if possible to avoid those sharp edges on your diy version. I'm sure you can get flanges at Graingers. The size of the shaft can be determined by going to your local hardware store with the one you've got or by buying 1 each of washers of the most likely sizes 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4. They will cost 25 to 50 cents pers or by the pound at Tractor Supply or Ace Hdwe, but save you returning something to Kingsley North or other lapidary supply. Or borrow someones calipres, or find a washer that works and measure the internal hole with a ruler. The outside diameter of the flange should be adjusted to the size of the blade that you are using with it. I cant recall the rule but it should be at least 1/3 the diameter of the blade and maybe more. Someone will chime in here or you can find it in a lapidary catalogue (i.e. guidance of flange size relative to blade size). Enjoy that rascal. Remember not to tighten the blade nut too tight. It will tighten itself with the spin of the machine. I just noticed your wavering about investment in this versus a tile saw. No way will a tile saw work for you like this saw will. You are 90% there except for flanges, belt, and blade. And blades can be cheap to prove the saw is of value to you. Almost any belt of the right width will work because you can mount the motor as far away as you need to to achieve tension, so you need not have the exact belt (although it should be available). Stay with it and enjoy. tom
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Post by catmandewe on Jan 27, 2015 0:07:27 GMT -5
I have 5/8" flanges if you still are looking for them.
Get that baby to work!
Tony
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 27, 2015 12:17:57 GMT -5
By slot maybe it was an 8" saw (or 10" depending on how low arbor mounts. Flanges should be 1/6 blade diameter minimum. If shaft is 5/8" you need 2" x 5/8" not 1/2". Belt size most commonly used is 4L which is 1/2" wide at top. If your pulleys are 1/2" wide buy a 4L. The 370 is length of 37". I use 26" or about to mount motor closer to saw and have a smaller board. I use carriage bolts from bottom and nuts and washers on top. Mount the saw on board. Place motor behind and install belt. Determine motor position by pulling motor to tighten belt. Motor mounts are slotted so you can adjust tighter later if belt stretches. Keep pulleys lined up straight. Weird looking saw for sure.
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