roxgrrl
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Member since October 2009
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Post by roxgrrl on Nov 26, 2009 20:25:34 GMT -5
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kwheeler
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Member since November 2009
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Post by kwheeler on Nov 26, 2009 22:14:20 GMT -5
I don't know how helpful it will be, but the pulley in the last pic is where you need to attach a belt running to your motor to run the saw. The saw needs a nut to thread onto the shaft shown in the 2nd picture. (You'll need flanges to fit on either side of the blade to keep it running straight so you don't ruin your blade) Do you have a mount that attaches to the trim saw to hold your motor? If no, then that's a whole other deal, as you'll have to find a way to mount the motor to keep just enough tension on the belt. If you go to www.kingsleynorth.com, they should have anything you need as far as blades, etc. I hope some of this was helpful. Kristopher
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Post by parfive on Nov 26, 2009 22:56:21 GMT -5
Welcome to the board, Rox.
Do you have more parts for the trim saw? If not, you’re missing a bunch of stuff – the most important being a coolant tank to fit under the top of the housing and hold the coolant water. Usually, the bottom of the saw blade sits in water (oil in bigger saws) and that’s what keeps the blade and the rock cool.
Without that water tank, there’s no sense rounding up the other parts needed: mounting board for saw and motor motor and drive belt saw blade (2) blade flanges and arbor nut
Let us know whatcha got and we’ll take it from there. (You can always rig up some sorta plastic tub to do the job.)
Rich
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Post by parfive on Nov 26, 2009 23:46:33 GMT -5
Here's the instruction manual for another trim saw. A few of the sketches will give you the basic setup. In this saw, the housing is the coolant tank. 533 kb www.lortone.com/pdf/TS8C_TrimSaw.pdf
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Post by deb193redux on Nov 27, 2009 11:38:58 GMT -5
You migth be able to sit the saw in a pan of water, bit the pan would need to b deep enough to keep water on the blade, but not so deep that it interfered with the connection of belt and motor. You can elevate the motor a bit, but the pan depth is still tricky, because you do not want the belt getting wet. If you have a tank that this sits in, and the arbor pulley sticks out the side, then things look brighter.
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roxgrrl
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Member since October 2009
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Post by roxgrrl on Nov 27, 2009 17:29:14 GMT -5
Thanks so much, all. I'll post more pics soon. --->Another question: How fast does the blade on the saw need to run effectively? I have a chart to determine RPM vs. pulley diameter, but I don't know how fast it needs to be, or what size pulley I need. I have a 2 1/2 inch pulley on the arbor shaft and one of the same size on the motor. According to the chart, I would be running at 1,935 RPM with this combination. I think the saw uses a 6 3/4 inch blade (that's what it came with). How do I calculate the correct saw speed?
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rockhound97058
freely admits to licking rocks
Thundereggs - Oregons Official State Rock!
Member since January 2006
Posts: 760
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Post by rockhound97058 on Nov 27, 2009 21:39:15 GMT -5
A rubbermaid tub would work great for this saw... first thing I thought when I seen the pics (where the fluid tank?) - Anyrate you don't need anything deep.... The bottom of the blade only needs to be in the water about 1/4"
In regards to Motor and saw RPM - Many pieces of lapidary equipment I see runs a 1725 RPM Motor. If that's the case and you have 2.5" pulleys on the motor and the saw you'd still be running at 1725. I'm not sure what a text book speed on the saw is for running - Sometimes blades have a RPM limit as well.
Make sure when you get this up and running to use is in an area meant for it... These small saws often times throw water like crazy!
Jason
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Post by deb193redux on Nov 28, 2009 12:08:31 GMT -5
I sure hope that was a 7: blade worn down. You can buy 6" and 7". Inland has some expensive and too thin 6.5" blades. I never heard of a 6.75" blade. I wonder if the whole thing is metric or something?
Tile saws, with thicker diamond blades used in construction, often run at 3400 RPM or higher. If you go this route, you could change one of the pulleys to go faster. Slightly higher chance of chipping, but much more throughput.
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roxgrrl
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2009
Posts: 17
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Post by roxgrrl on Nov 28, 2009 13:12:04 GMT -5
Pics: Coolant tank for saw. Was filled with anti-freeze or kerosine. Came with the saw. Motor: 1725 RPM, 1/4 HP. Picture taken before I put a cord on it. Has a sturdy mount attached to it. Currently trying to find blade flanges online. Have a belt as well (3L 350)-->What do these numbers mean? It's badly worn and should be replaced. As for a mounting surface, I have a desk I thought I would bolt the saw and motor to:
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Post by Rockoonz on Nov 28, 2009 20:00:08 GMT -5
Do you need blade flanges, I see a flange next to the blade in your very first picture. They are basically specialized washers. The desk should make a dandy base to attach saw and motor to. How long is the slot for the blade?
Lee
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Nov 28, 2009 22:12:31 GMT -5
Roxgrrl, the #s on the belt are for width and length. 3l is width. Just take the belt to a well stocked hardware, automotive, or farm/fleet store and they can fix you right up with a new one. The desk looks like a great place for the saw. Just make sure it's a comfortable height.
Nate
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Post by deb193redux on Nov 29, 2009 19:20:19 GMT -5
OK, got tank. Ugly, but it should work. I would bolt the motor and mount the saw on a square of plywood. You can move it easier than the desk, and eventually for one reason or another, you will want to move it. Also, make a small frame to set the tank into, but do not bolt it down. Sealing the bolts to prevent leakage is a pain, and you want to be able to pick up the tank and hose it out now and then. Having to tip over the whole desk would get old really fast. If you make a snug 2x2 frame screwed onto the plywood, then the tank will not move. The bolts will hold the motor. Make sure you can slide the motor back and forth enough to remove and/or tension the belt. It does look like there is one flange in the initial pics. Got two? ... and a nut? That one looks solid, which is hard to find. But "stamped" metal flanges are easier to order. (See p. 38 of Lortone catalog www.lortone.com/pdf/Lortone_2009_Catalog.pdf) Is there enough room to get the blade thru the slot and over the arbor? ... or do you have to loosen the threaded arbor from the shaft when changing blades? Good luck, and keep plugging away.
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roxgrrl
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Member since October 2009
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Post by roxgrrl on Nov 29, 2009 19:57:14 GMT -5
Yes, Lee, still need flanges. I have one (as seen in the picture), but can't find another like it. I've looked at McMaster Carr and several other hardware sites. Does anyone know where I can find these? I think the arbor shaft is 7/10 of an inch (or 5/8?). I found a fine threaded bolt for the end of the shaft. Going to try Fleet Farm for the belt--one place I looked (Menards) only had snow blower belts ($15).
-The blade slot is 8 3/4 inches, Lee.
Thanks much for the help. Slowly piecing things togethwher. Going to add some height to the desk so it's less of a back breaker.
Without a heated garage, I'm wondering if I'm not going to have to set up a "wet room" for this in my basement for the winter. Gotta love Wisconsin...
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Post by deb193redux on Nov 29, 2009 20:30:52 GMT -5
flange? .. see link in my post directly above.
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roxgrrl
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Post by roxgrrl on Nov 29, 2009 20:52:18 GMT -5
Found the flanges! Just trying to determine what size I need. The bolt I bought for the end of shaft is 1/2 inch. Can I assume the shaft is the same? I see a pair of 2 x 1/2" stamped flanges on Kingsley. Will these be sufficient for a blade up to 8 inches?
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
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Post by NDK on Nov 29, 2009 22:13:30 GMT -5
Fleet Farm will have that belt. Good call. I didn't know if they had a store near you. Look in the electrical department by the motors and pulleys. The belt should be around $5.00 there.
Nate
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roxgrrl
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Member since October 2009
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Post by roxgrrl on Oct 10, 2010 17:55:26 GMT -5
At this rate, I'm wondering about a tile saw from Harbor Freight...4 or 7" blade, guards, drip pan $50-80. Has anyone tried these for cutting smaller rocks? Might get me up and running faster. I little frazzled with trying to get this thing together. Think I could sell the individual components and a couple motors to purchase I ready-made saw...Any ideas?
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 10, 2010 19:07:13 GMT -5
Please, please don't use antifreeze or Kerosene for a lubricant / coolant. Both are toxic, and the kerosene can catch fire. Use mineral oil or a proper lapidary cutting oil.
Don
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Post by deb193redux on Oct 10, 2010 20:54:41 GMT -5
The table and arbor has value to anyone who wants to build a tank. You might get enough to cover an inexpensive 7" tile say. They do start around $50 after all.
The motor has a value between $10 salvage and $150 new, but shipping a heavy item like that might limit you to only getting about $25 for it. I have paid about that much on ebay for some motors and then another $15 in UPS shipping.
The tile saw will throw a lot of water, and some folks only use them outside. I have used one indoors set in a laundry sink.
The blade slot/opening on a tile saw is generally wider and some small slabs can tip down into this area. The slot on the table you have is going to be the most stable trimming. But if your interest is in slicing small rocks moreso than trimming, then the tile saw is a good thought.
Recently Home Depot had a decent tile saw for $50, and the motor was surprisingly quiet.
The smaller the blade, the thinner it can be without being too bendy. I got a 4" saw from HarborFreight so I could mount a thin blade for expensive material trimming. But otherwise, I would recommend the 7" for that slightly deeper cut. If you get a fairly thick/stiff blade, you can make small slabbetts, trim out shapes form the slabbett (be careful not to let the slab dip down near the blade), and then start to dome the shape using the side of the blade as a ad-hoc grinder.
I would go ahead and get a tile saw while holding on to you parts. You can always sell them later if you are sure you cutting needs will not require a separate trim saw. Generally thought, as you get into cutting you want several saws to handle different jobs/situations. You may also decide that you want a larger trim saw later, but can save money by using this motor and drive pulley.
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roxgrrl
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2009
Posts: 17
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Post by roxgrrl on Jan 26, 2015 13:50:11 GMT -5
Looking forward to jumping back on this project. It's been sitting in storage for a couple years. Just need to build a stand for it and get the pully/motor ratio set. Thanks for all of the guidance, all! Looking forward to revisiting some of your comments as I set up!
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