joejansal
noticing nice landscape pebbles
Member since August 2009
Posts: 98
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Post by joejansal on Jan 12, 2010 18:52:30 GMT -5
hi all, dont have the problem yet, but would like to know where to purchase the plasticdip or whatever for repairing bottm of rubber barrels. thaki in advance joejansal
ps still need more input on seashell polishing.
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snuffy
Cave Dweller 
Member since May 2009
Posts: 4,319
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Post by snuffy on Jan 12, 2010 19:52:10 GMT -5
You can get a can of plastidip at Home Depot. A little over 5 bucks,I used it when the barrels became real thin at the end.It takes a little while,a little bit in stages until the stuff is cured. Pour a little in and put weight on the barrel,as the reaction between the rubber and plastidip will initially bulge. You may need a couple of inner lid liners, I use lortone,as the ce liners wear out quickly.
snuffy
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chromenut
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since December 2009
Posts: 1,971
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Post by chromenut on Jan 13, 2010 12:02:51 GMT -5
I bought mine by the case for $6 a case on ebay from a wholesaler named TAD wholesale. Pretty cheap that way, comes out to a dollar a bottle.
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joejansal
noticing nice landscape pebbles
Member since August 2009
Posts: 98
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Post by joejansal on Jan 14, 2010 13:15:31 GMT -5
thanks snuffy, do you mean pour some dip into the barrell and put alid on it with weight. also are you saying the lortone lids fit the c e barrels.
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blessed
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by blessed on Jan 14, 2010 14:03:55 GMT -5
Yes the lids will fit CE barrels.The belt for a lortone willfit the CE. The motor for a Lortone 33 B will work, but it has to be modsified. I am runnning 2 CE double 3's with Lortone motors, fans, belts, and one CE barrel with a Lortone lid. Keep them rocks rolling. Blessed.
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snuffy
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2009
Posts: 4,319
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Post by snuffy on Jan 14, 2010 14:27:47 GMT -5
Yep, the Chinese did a pretty good knockoff of the Lortone, except for the quality. On the barrels,I pour a small amount in the center of the bottom where its thin. It bulges up and when it hardened enough on the surface,I placed a jar inside the barrel and placed a large rock on the jar to flatten it out and let that cure.Then I repeated this in several stages to where I had about an eighth of an inch thick. I haven't seen even a scratch on the bottoms since. Maybe somebody has a better,easier way to do it, would like to hear it.Anyway,I had to replace the boot gasket just this morning,the ce wore a hole in it. As blessed said, I also have one with lortone belts,pulley and motor.
snuffy
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docharber
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2008
Posts: 716
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Post by docharber on Jan 28, 2010 22:30:09 GMT -5
As Snuffy said, you will get some buckling with the inital coat. i have used pieces of bedliner peeled off the interior of my leaky homemade 20 pounder barrel (it was made of MDF and lined with the bedliner material- and leaked) as patch material and "glued" tyhem in with thin coats of the plastidip. The Plastidip dries much faster athan the bedliner and doesn't off-gas solvent as it does. I have used the plastidip in very thin coats without problems, as long as I let it dry between coats. It's very durable, and all my repairs with it have held. I would try using an old innertube or thick sheet vinyl for a patch and seal it down with the plastidip. you need to keep the bottom of the barrels pliable as they retract under vacuum as the rocks tumble. I don't get the gas opproblem anymore for some reason. When I take the barrels off after a round of tumbling the bottoms are sucked inward. I noticed the barrels are thinner in the center of the bottom to allow for this.
Anyway, start with a thin coat to seal the rubber surface, and avoid puddling, which will expose the rubber to a lot of solvent and cause wrinking/buckling.
Mark H.
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